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View Full Version : Tri-Z Frankenshock... Cheap and affective shock build



zmpolaristech
11-27-2011, 04:48 PM
Ok, about a year ago I had an idea about combining 3 different yamaha shocks to build 1 fully adjustable Tri-Z shock that fits and looks like oem, but would perform twice as good! Well, a few months ago I finally got around to building one... And this is how it came bout- I had a banshee shock, that I installed a gold valve kit and eibach spring on a few years ago, but it was way too harsh for the -1 swinger on my banshee. So, I disassembled the banshee shock keeping only the lower shock assy (shaft, valving, seal head,etc). This lower shock assy would allow me to take advantage of the gold valve kit, and the rebound adjustment found on all banshee shocks. Next, I stripped a blown yamaha warrior shock (that I got for free), keeping only the upper shock body (pitch the warrior reservior...JUNK). This would allow me to put the banshee lower shock assy into the warrior upper shock body (I use the one piece Moose seal heads for all my banshee, warrior, Tri-Z shocks. The race tech seal heads suck in my opinion). Then, I stripped the compression adjustable reservior off the original Tri-Z shock and attached it to the warrior shock body with a new banjo bolt and crush washers. Lastly, I Filled the shock with oil and charged the nitrogen to 150psi (race tech's spec for the gold valve kit), and reinstalled the eibach spring on the Frankenshock.

I have had the Frankenshock in my trail Z for a few months now....WOW!!!:naughty: This thing is awsome! I can RAIL washouts and ditches like never before with this thing! NO more standing up to soak up a big bump! The shock appears as a factory unit when installed, AND ITS FULLY ADJUSTABLE! I plan on building at least one more of these shocks out of completely stock components (stk valving and spring) for my wifes Tri-Z, that way I can see if they work just as good for a lighter rider, without the gold valve and eibach spring (im 230lbs, she is 120:rolleyes:).

SO, basically all you need are the following parts from ANY YEAR:
1 blown warrior shock w/decent body - Free - $30
1 blown Tri-Z shock w/decent reservior - Free - $50
1 blown banshee shock w/good shaft - Free - $75
1 moose seal head assy - $35
and someone to assemble and charge shock - $40

For around $200 (or less) you can have a fully adjustable Tri-Z shock that LOOKS EXACTLY like a nice oem piece.
I know from experience, that a shock this good can't be bought for $200!! (excluding a lucky ebay find)

Here is a pic of the shock all assembled on th work bench. sorry, no in progress pics, I don't think that far ahead mymint87

:pics:

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Let me know what you guys think. I put a lot of thought into this thing and it works GREAT for the money invested.

Just-Tri-It
11-27-2011, 06:08 PM
Did you use the outer coil spring and do you have a pic of the unit installed on the tri-z?
Thanks

wisconsinite
11-27-2011, 06:28 PM
very cool. i may look at doing this when my warrior shock blows. great info!!

zmpolaristech
11-27-2011, 10:58 PM
Did you use the outer coil spring and do you have a pic of the unit installed on the tri-z?
Thanks

On this build, I used a much heavier than stock Eibach spring that matches the race tech valving. But if your stock Tri-z spring supports your weight, than you can use the spring off the banshee, warrior, or tri-z shock, as all 3 came from the factory with the same spring rate. I will get up a pic of it installed, tomorrow.

Just-Tri-It
11-27-2011, 11:34 PM
On this build, I used a much heavier than stock Eibach spring that matches the race tech valving. But if your stock Tri-z spring supports your weight, than you can use the spring off the banshee, warrior, or tri-z shock, as all 3 came from the factory with the same spring rate.

I'm at 175. What would you probably do? Are all Tri-z springs rated the same regardless of color or year?
Thanks

zmpolaristech
11-27-2011, 11:47 PM
I'm at 175. What would you probably do? Are all Tri-z springs rated the same regardless of color or year?
Thanks
Yes, all the springs are the same spring rate regardless of color and year (there were factory optional heavier springs, but I have never seen one). I wanna say stock banshee valving and spring rate are for 160lb rider, so I would say you'll be fine with a stock spring cranked up a little bit.

MTS
11-27-2011, 11:54 PM
Very cool!! I had thought about doing something similar, let us know how the next one go's im only a buck 35, and more adjustability is allways better!!!

zmpolaristech
11-28-2011, 12:04 AM
WELL, the next Frankenshock is already under way! I JUST scored a blown 98 Banshee shock on ebay for $25 shipped!! I went out to the garage and dug up a Tri-z res (a bit beat up, but useable), and put a warrior shock in the vice for disassembly tomorrow. I'll order a seal head, and as soon as the banshee shock shows up, I'm gonna slap this thing together and see how it works with stock valving and spring. I can't wait!

Kfx-xc-racer88
11-28-2011, 07:16 AM
take some pics as you go along???

Tri-Z 250
11-28-2011, 11:56 AM
I love it when someone actually goes down the unknown road and finds an alternate route....Great job Zman!

zmpolaristech
11-28-2011, 12:50 PM
take some pics as you go along???
I will document the next build much better.


I love it when someone actually goes down the unknown road and finds an alternate route....Great job Zman!
Hey, thanx man.

tri-Z ripper
12-01-2011, 08:48 AM
SO jon for about $300 you will build me one? I'm halfway there with the warrior and Z shock in hand and know where i can get a banshee one hmmmm!

zmpolaristech
12-02-2011, 01:35 PM
The following questions were PMed to me, but the answers should be here as well, SO:


A few questions about the shock build.
Why did you not use anything but the reservoir off the Z shock.
The Tri-z shock has an aluminum upper body that is usually pretty worn out inside, causing the shock shaft to "wobble". A 25 yr old, aluminum shock, that has never been serviced...= not realy alot of useable parts. The warrior upper shock body is steel, and usually about 15-20 yrs newer, therefore definately not as worn inside, if at all. I don't use the Tri-z shafts for basically the same reasons (old and worn)...AND there is no rebound adjustment on the bottom of a Tri-z shock. The reservior on the tri-z is VERY basic, but it matches with the same "basic" set-up on the banshee and warrior shocks (meaning that all 3 use a bladderless reservior w/an IFP). Warrior shocks do have a rebound adjustment on them, but it is a VERY cruel set-up compared to the banshee . And lastly, the banshee shaft and valving assy comes from the factory with more aggressive valving than either the warrior or Z.


Do you need special tools to assemble the components?
Yes, bare minimum you will need: a nitrogen tank w/gauges and a needle, a dremel tool with small carbide cutter (for disassembly), and a seal head installer (so you don't ruin the new seal on the sharp edges of the shaft). Personally, I disassemble all 3 shocks myself, which requires grinding a notch in the top of the oem seal heads in order to remove the retainer clips. Then once you have the shaft assy out of the banshee shock, you have to grind off the peened over threads on the end of the shock shaft, in order to remove the nut, valving, and old seal head. I then install the new seal head on the shaft and reinstall the valving and retainer nut (use red loctite on the retainer nut). After ALL parts are thoroughly cleaned I take them, unassembled, to my shock guy. He fills the reservior and shock w/oil, assembles the shock and charges with nitrogen. It costs me $30-$40 to have him do the final assembly. WELL WORTH THE MONEY!


Where did you get the banjo nut and washer and why didn't you use the old one?
The banjo bolt and washer were new ones I had laying around from the several brake line kits I have installed. If the oem washers are cleaned up with some scotch brite before reinstalling, they will work. I did it on the first Frankenshock that I built.


Where did you get the Moose seal head and what is the part number, so I can get the original?
I get the Moose seal heads out of Parts Unlimited, part #1314-0051, retail $38.


If anyone else has some questions, feel free to ask. I'll do my best.

zmpolaristech
12-12-2011, 09:39 PM
do you have a pic of the unit installed on the tri-z? Thanks

Well, my bike is still dirty from the last time I rode it, but here is a pic of the Frankenshock, installed. I have a shock cover on it, so ya can't see much there...

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