View Full Version : Difference between kick and electric start. just an observation
tri again
11-18-2011, 02:14 PM
So this 84 y/o farmer needed one of my 250sx's to keep coyotes from...well anyway.
I pulled one out, turned on the gas and choke and ran the starter for
a few seconds, a couple times.
Hmmmm..
Well it had been sitting for 3 months but as soon as I clocked it around to the compression
stroke with the kick, it popped instantly and kept running.
I noticed that happened with my 200 all the time too, even when used every day. (pull instead of kick)
E Starters spin plenty fast too.
Wonder if that means anything.
Motorious
11-18-2011, 02:30 PM
I had the exact opposite phenomenon with my '86 250SX, was harder to start with the kicker than with the electric starter. Almost always started immediately with the electric starter; usually took several kicks before I could get it to fire with the kicker.
See if you're getting spark when turning it over with the starter?
dougspcs
11-18-2011, 02:43 PM
Put a volt meter on your battery and monitor how low the voltage drops while cranking..
Weak battery might still have enough amps to spin the engine but the volt drops enough to cause the coil to generate little or no spark..
Near or below 11 volts during crank load is a bad or discharged battery
12.5 volts no draw is a fully charged battery.
350xx
11-18-2011, 06:19 PM
Yeah because the starter itself could be drawing too much power on the low battery reducing spark! Check it out!
Hair Bear Bunch
11-19-2011, 02:30 PM
I'll throw this in, may give some clues...
I've been working on a KLF300B recently. It'd been badly abused and the wiring was all over the place. Anyway, time came to try and start it, a couple of gentle pulls had it spluttering so I hooked up the battery to give it a good spin. Turned over fine but not firing at all. Tried the pull start and it spluttered again, electric start nothing.
Took the plug out and the pull start showed a weakish spark, no spark of any sort on the button.
The loom had odd bits of wire sticking out everywhere and I don't know what made me do it, desperation I guess, but I just started choosing random bits of wire, testing for voltage then touching them to earth. One wire caused a click sound near the relays, and as curiosity got the better of me I earthed the wire and pressed the button. Started and ran instantly, then I discovered all the lights and the cooling fan worked.
I guess what I'm suggesting is check and recheck all the ground connections, or try trailing a wire direct from the battery (-) to each ground point and try starting it.
Good luck.
Big Sal
11-19-2011, 02:54 PM
I hate wiring....lol
bcredneck
11-19-2011, 03:40 PM
Put a volt meter on your battery and monitor how low the voltage drops while cranking..
Weak battery might still have enough amps to spin the engine but the volt drops enough to cause the coil to generate little or no spark..
Near or below 11 volts during crank load is a bad or discharged battery
12.5 volts no draw is a fully charged battery.
this is not posible the battery and spark plug/cdi are on a totaly differnt curcit i know this because i had to redesine the harness on my big red to run a 1981 mx 80 cdi
Bretmd94
11-19-2011, 03:43 PM
My crf250x starts up easier with the kick, I really feel that it just turns the motor faster through the kick start compared to the small starter/battery combo on these bikes. I still use the electric starter most of the time, but when it is cold the battery will die before it is started.
bcredneck
11-19-2011, 03:49 PM
the only bike i know of with battery ignition is a old kawie endro bike and i was the one who hooked the points up to the battery because the stator that ran the points was shot and i had a 12 volt craging stator out of a newer bike
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