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bessybait
11-14-2011, 07:57 PM
Any tips? I removed the tank and tried flushing it out several times but i can still hear/see dirt inside.

sleepyweasel13
11-15-2011, 01:54 AM
I have gotten rid of rust in tanks before by filling them with white vineger and letting them set a few days, giving them an acasional shake every day or so. Once its rust free, I run a garden hose in it for 5 mins to flush any particles out. try to get as mutch water as i can out, then shake some gas/2 stroke oil mix in it, dump that out and fog the tank with wd40(dont be stingy.....Doing this should leave you with a new looking tank. Good luck!

falloutboy
11-15-2011, 03:32 AM
I have gotten rid of rust in tanks before by filling them with white vineger and letting them set a few days, giving them an acasional shake every day or so. Once its rust free, I run a garden hose in it for 5 mins to flush any particles out. try to get as mutch water as i can out, then shake some gas/2 stroke oil mix in it, dump that out and fog the tank with wd40(dont be stingy.....Doing this should leave you with a new looking tank. Good luck!

x2. works good

http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Removing_rust_from_a_gas_tank

bessybait
11-15-2011, 08:30 AM
thanks I will try that but what is "x2"

1tonofsh!t
11-15-2011, 11:09 AM
he agrees...times 2

BiggDogg
11-15-2011, 11:45 AM
X 2:lol:

I'll be doing this in a couple weeks along with repainting the tank

tri again
11-15-2011, 12:14 PM
My latest LAZY way is to use soap and boiling water.
Pressure wash the inside like at the car wash, or garden hose will do ok too.

dry them totally, maybe even a rinse with that
fuel line dryer called 'heet' to remover ALL traces of moisture.
Blow out with compressed air for 10 minutes and then either fill and KEEP full with gas
or spray the inside with fogging oil, used to winterize marine engines.

Of course, there are 100 other ways too, but I figure if they're clean and not throwing any More rust,
and you can stop them from rusting any more, we're 99% where we need to be.

IF I get serious, it would be radiator shop clean out or muriatic acid wash at home and
coat with por15, but again,
if they're clean of chunks and dust and not plugging the carb,
keeping them full full so there no room for oxygen or condensation to promote more rust
or
dead empty and drydrydry moisture wise and hanging inside with low temperature fluctuations and
the cap OFF!
My last sx was factory new. Guy drained the tank, and parked it in a heated garage but the gas cap was left on.
it accumulated enough moisture in the tank from breathing that you can easily jam 4 fingers thru the bottom of that tank.
And it looks NEW new new on the outside. so very sad.

If you can get the search key to work for you, there's enough info on this topic
to make your head spin

coolpool
11-15-2011, 03:37 PM
All good advice.^ If you have some stubborn rust/dirt inside, put a handful of screws or gravel in it with vinegar/soap & water or whatever you want to use and shake it around. That will 'sand' the inside clean. POR 15 makes a great product for cleaning the inside of tanks. I think it's called "Marine Clean".

bessybait
11-15-2011, 09:38 PM
thanks for all the advise. I got it nice and clean and put back together. But I must have done somthing wrong putting the carb back together because when i turn the fuel on it runs out the drain (yes I did close it ) and the over flow vent tube. Maybe I should start new thread for that question?

coolpool
11-15-2011, 11:17 PM
Your float is stuck partially open. An common result of cleaning carbs sometimes. You loosen crud up that wasn't an issue before. If a light tap on the side of the bowl with a screwdriver handle doesn't stop the flow, you'll have to tear it apart again to clean the needle and seat. Also make sure your float is adjusted to the right height.

Edit: Forgot one easy thing to try. Shut off the petcock, start the machine and let it run until it dies. This will allow your float to drop and maybe flush out the dirt.

tri again
11-15-2011, 11:57 PM
I've gotten lucky sometimes by taking off the fuel line from the tank or just using a foot or so of new clear line,
, open the float bowl drain and then blow into the fuel line, maybe even a few drops of 2 stroke oil or mystery oil.
It blows past the float valve and just MAY work.
Mouth pressure is enough.

Otherwise, what coolpool says.
Apart again and maybe a Q tip in the float valve seat.
If it's real cruddy, toothpaste can help since it's a mild abrasive.
and check the rubber tip on the float needle..AND the little tiny spring plunger on the opposite side of the rubber float needle tip.
It touches the float itself, spring loaded and sometimes gets stuck.
It's so small it's amazing that it even works at all.

TatTooL23
11-16-2011, 04:24 AM
KBS also makes a rust remover and tank flushing stuff and a sealer like red coat.

bessybait
11-16-2011, 09:12 AM
thanks guys this is all very helpfull info. Im really not dumb (I dont think) Im just new to this. thanks again. Im sure Ill have more questions.

bessybait
11-16-2011, 01:10 PM
OK I have tried all the tricks and none worked so I have removed the carb again. This time I noticed there was a small break in a peice that attaches the float to the bracket that holds the pin. Could this be the Problem? If so where could I get one? My local dealer said they could order one. Maybe I could order ne online.

Jon Boy
11-16-2011, 01:47 PM
My latest LAZY way is to use soap and boiling water.
Pressure wash the inside like at the car wash, or garden hose will do ok too. dry them totally, maybe even a rinse with that
fuel line dryer called 'heet' to remover ALL traces of moisture.
why spend that much on Heet? just use rubbing alcohol, that's basicly what Heet is.

bessybait
11-16-2011, 09:14 PM
Shes runin good now!!! jezz you can by a new carb online for less than 40 bucks, why buy all the little parts?
Thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

55stone`
11-18-2011, 02:41 AM
nice write up from everyone.. i have a atc 110 tank that is about to go through 1 of these processes