Help with feeler gauge on 350X

[3wheely]

Alright, I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I usually take my stuff to the shop for any mechanical stuff so I know it's done right. I decided it's time to start doing this stuff on my own. In this picture where in the heck does the feeler gauge go? I've read the manual but the pics are crappy and not very detailed. The last thing I want to do is get in there and screw something up. I have it at TDC and the arms have a little play. I just want to check and make sure everything is within specs. If someone could tell me in the pic where it goes that would be great. Also what the best tool to turn the screw? Obviously not a flat head like the 200x.

134057

[dougspcs]

134060

Well your picture angle is kinda wacked, with other lifter in the way. The pointer is going to the part in the background..not the foreground. it's a tough spot that will require you to bend the feeler to a 90' angle..

Wiggle the lifter with your finger. If you have it at TDC it will be loose and you will see a tiny gap between the valve top and lifter.

[3wheely]

I know the lifter wigglers a little, so that's fine. I think the problem maybe that the gap is so small I didn't see it. I ordered a .003 angled gauge (couldn't find one), so when that comes in I'll see if it's too tight. Is it possible for the lifter to wiggle yet there is no gap meaning to tight?

[El Camexican]

The feeler gauge slips inbetween the tip of the valve stem and the end of the adjustable screw that is showing in your photo. As Doug mentioned thsi is done at or near TDC when the lash is loosest and you will have to bend your feeler gauge to get in there. I also have cut the feelers to 3/16" wide to make it easier to get them in there.

[MonroeMike]

Here's a good pic, complete with red arrow (from another machine though).
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115543&d=1296582389

[3wheely]

So because I've never replaced valves before, from what I can see the valve stem comes through the spring, held on with the retainer and cotter. The gap would be between the tip of the valve stem and bottom of the adjustment screw. I think why I was confused as it looks like all one piece, with no gap. I know it's a really tiny gap, so maybe by eye I couldn't see it. When I get my gauge I'll be able to tell if it's too tight hence the reason there may be no gap. I know it's at TDC as the lifters wiggle and the marks are lined up, piston all the way up. Thanks for the help guys.

[baycitysteve]

go .003 on the intake ones and .005 on the exhaust side cause it get's hotter and the exhaust will grow a little taller ..

[El Camexican]

go .003 on the intake ones and .005 on the exhaust side cause it get's hotter and the exhaust will grow a little taller ..

... and when in doubt, go looser, NEVER tighter.

[Dirtcrasher]

When you tighten the lock nut, it changes the gap just a hair. You have to set it a bit looser, then tighten the nut and see where it ends up.....

It's easy, just double check it; I just use brass shim stock and bend my own feeler gauges when I need them.

[El Camexican]

When you tighten the lock nut, it changes the gap just a hair. You have to set it a bit looser, then tighten the nut and see where it ends up...

Yep, as D.C. says, you have to do it a few times and check how much it closed up after you give the lock nut it it's final snugging. Having owned a number of 16 valve engines with this configuration I can tell you it takes a bit of trial and error to get them set just right.

[3wheely]

Thanks guys. I see how it all works now. When I jiggled the lifter I could see where the gap is or should be. I don't have my gauge yet to measure but I suspect it may be a little tight even though there's a little play. The bike runs good other than some jetting which I'm waiting for to come in, but I like to keep it that way! Fresh oil, plug and fine tuning.....long live the 3-wheeler!

[tri again]

I used a piece of clear fuel line.
It fits on the adjuster square heads and gives fingertip
twist control.
I think I've also seen people use square drive drywall or deck screws bent over so they fit in there, but they really shouldn't need ANY kind of torque to get them to move for adjusting, hence the snug fitting fuel line.
Plus it bends and allows twisting 'around corners'.

I guess it's also best to make sure the CAM is at tdc and/or the cam lobes are pointing UP.
A mistake that cause me to buy an 87 BR for 200$.
They set the valve lash with the cam lobes pointing down, but crank was at tdc
and it slamKNOCKrattled like it was gonna blow (all the way) up.

[3wheely]

I saw the screw trick on youtube. I like the fuel line idea too. Thanks for the tip!