PDA

View Full Version : Crank Bearing Spun On Crank



Tecate250
09-26-2011, 11:53 AM
Hi Guys! I couldnt post in the world class help section , So I guess ill post it here. I have a 1985 Kawasaki Tecate 3 that the magneto side crank bearing spun on the crank. The crank just had a new Hot rod Con rod installed with little wear on it. I had 2 old crank oem ones that came out of my 83 kx that fit. SO I thought it was the all Ballz bearings that had another bearing number. SO I bought oem ones. Well turns out they slide on easy too on the one side. Is there any way to repair this? Or is my crank garbage?

Tecate250
09-26-2011, 06:07 PM
Can Anyone help me out?

fabiodriven
09-26-2011, 06:19 PM
I wish I had an answer for ya Dwayne.

Tecate250
09-26-2011, 06:32 PM
Well at least someone replied.

ceaserthethird
09-26-2011, 07:51 PM
I have heard of machine shops putting in a sleeve on the main bearing case's, but they must have experience!

Contact Carlos at - www.bdtmotorsports.com

He's one of the few who do this job.

Dirtcrasher
09-26-2011, 08:57 PM
By how much?? The crank half can be knurled and or cylindrical loctite can take up .010 (which is huge), easy..........

A sleeve would be great, just not so cheap; But, the best way to fix it.......

cr480r
09-26-2011, 09:27 PM
luckily for us tecate guys kawasaki used the same 250 crank from around 81-82 through sometime in the 90's making them plentiful. there is a difference from the early to the later ones but it's just how the drive gear is secured to the crank(nut vs. clip)

the KX stroke was lengthed to 70mm in 1987.. the crankwheels are too large for a T3 crankcase.


The crank just had a new Hot rod Con rod installed with little wear on it

many will disagree, but i would press the newish rod, bearing, and pin into different crankwheels that are good...

Swinger
09-26-2011, 10:23 PM
I just took a crank I had lying around in my spare tecate parts and had it cleaned up and got lucky that it was still in great shape. I didnt know the other options other than just getting a new one( or good used one). I think if you go that route try someone on here before going to ebay because 3ww guys are alot more honest than so schmo you dont know! Good luck on your journey whatever path you may chose!

Tecate250
09-27-2011, 09:39 AM
Well you see a used crank your takeing a risk on it. I was told to punch marks on the cranbk and use liquid steel to (glue) the bear to the crank.

fabiodriven
09-27-2011, 11:32 AM
sounds like a bigger risk than a used one.

I'm going to agree with Ben. I think you'd be better off with a used one than "glueing" a bearing on or whatever.

86T3
09-27-2011, 01:32 PM
Its not a tractor engine, this thing is going to be spinning 9000+ rpm. That shaft will find the uneven spot on your junkyard fix and take out the crank seal as the best case scenario. There is a time and a place for rigging, this isn't it.

Tecate250
09-27-2011, 04:37 PM
Thats great for people who live around other Tecates. I have the only running one in all the atlantic provinces. So take a 150$ crank shipping charges and border taxes ill be into it for about 200$ Plus finding one that can be shipped to Canada. Seems alot of americans dont like selling to Canadians. The bike ran fine with only one crank bearing connected only issue was the crank had left and right play. On top of that Im pretty broke.
Thanks for the advice.

tecat-z
09-27-2011, 06:14 PM
All T-3's use a 64.9mm stroke. First and second gen cranks do not interchange however. Nor do 85 up kx cranks. You need a 83-84 KX or 84-85 kxt crank. Water pump,crank throw, P/V drive, case volume, and engine dimensions are drastically different for any other application, thus crank wheels being different. Rods however are all dimensionally the same, and can be used for any KX250 78-06 regardless of what oem #'s show. If you feel the big pin holes have become "loose" the pin can be lightly tig welded after final assy and true. It's a common practice on multi cylinder 2 strokes to ensure phasing it kept accurate and reduce the chance of twist. On single cylinder app, phasing is no concern. It's simply to ensure you don't harmonically walk the pin......

fabiodriven
09-27-2011, 07:47 PM
Dwayne, you always ask for advice and then argue the answers. That may be why people were hesitant to answer initially.

I may have a crank I can send you just for shipping costs. I'll have to take a peek.

ceaserthethird
09-27-2011, 08:40 PM
WOW what did you expect Some Red Neck fix's with duct tape LOL...

Just giving you crap, Best to SAVE up for the Correct Fix's.

Tecate250
09-28-2011, 12:17 PM
Im not throwing anything back. It might be a very long time befor I have the cash to fix it. And will probaby be sold due to this. My tecate has been down all year de to this. Now I have already spend 500$ in hot rod and buying 3 sets of bearings. So for all who I have offended. Im not full of money like everyone on here seems to be. So 2 people have told me one idea. Using punch marks and liquid steel. So my motor is trashed. Why not try it is my thing. Instead of everyone saying no do it this way. Ive seen alot of nice fixes from "red neck fixes.

bkm
09-28-2011, 01:07 PM
I've got a complete lower end that appears to be tight for $100 + shipping. You could probably just bolt on your top end and run it.

86T3
09-28-2011, 06:47 PM
They're green for a reason, pay to play.

Mosh
09-28-2011, 08:30 PM
They're green for a reason, pay to play.
That right there is a true Tecate owner statement. They are not easy, or cheap.

Tecate250.
Many Car engine shops that build race engines have the capability to weld on the journal and regrind it to fit the bearing.
I am sure it won't be only 50$, but well worth a shot if you have a engine shop near you.