Counter Balancer Bearing

[Sparkplugkid]

I know its not a Trike. But it uses the same motor as the 3rd gen 250r's. Can anybody give me some input? I think it should have some play so its moves easier with the gears but do I have too much... I would rather be safe, then sorry

Video Of Bearing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGl73RPAlkU)

[Mosh]

That is SHOT.
That is so loose I am willing to guess it has the case boss for the bearing wollered out too.
In other words, if you put a new bearing on the balancer, you will still have play between the bearing and case.
Get the bearing from ebay for 17$ and remove the balancer and mark the gear to the shaft and press off the gear then install new bearing.
Be sure to keep all your marks lined up so the balance of the engine is kept true.

Then you can see how bad the case is worn. If the case boss is worn, you will have to have the case bored and a sleeve installed to take up the space between the bearing and case.
Maybe you will be lucky and there is only bearing play. I would replace the bearing on the other side too behind the pick up coil, on the aluminum plate behind the stator.

[Dirtcrasher]

As well as often the bolts are snapped and the holder gets egged out. Fix it or wait till it blows!

[tri again]

Our local bearing supplier can cross reference
bearing numbers and save tons of $. if you can still read the numbers.

Generally, engineers don't specify custom bearings unless
absolutely necessary.

Glad you got the premonition to open it up and have a look.

[Sparkplugkid]

i was told i can no longer buy the bearing from honda (oem) there was a number on the bearing (cant remember it off hand). if I take this to a bearing supply to you think they could find me one. do i need to take the case to a machine shop to have the case re sleeved? thanks

[tri again]

welp? let's see.
The bearing guys love to sell bearings so they usually have a cross reference chart.
Some may be cheaper, as in price and quality and some may have a shield or seal that can be pried out.
if they need to be open to oil flow, or shielded on only one side or whatever.

Did the old ones fall out of the case? or did you need to smash them or slide hammer them out?
We had a shop that would 'knurl' where the bearings would fit into
essentially decreasing the diameter of the hole the bearing goes into but of course sleeving is best.

IF it even needs it.
Locktite also has a bearing set glue that wicks around the outside
to stabilize them
The right way is best, of course.

You'll have to see what it looks like and how tight the old ones come out and the new ones press in.
As long as it's significantly tighter than what it takes to rotate the bearings, is the general idea.

Wonder if there are specs for that?

[Red Rider]

i was told i can no longer buy the bearing from honda (oem) there was a number on the bearing (cant remember it off hand). if I take this to a bearing supply to you think they could find me one. do i need to take the case to a machine shop to have the case re sleeved? thanksIf unable to get it from Honda, yes, try an aftermarket bearing manufacturer. If the outside race of your old bearing isn't all deformed, and the case isn't all "wollered out", as someone else said, then no you shouldn't need to get your case sleeved. Remember, that bearing needs to slide in/out easily to install/remove the counterbalancer. It is not a tight interference fit, but there should be no slop either. It is held in by the bearing retainer plate & bolts.

[Mosh]

As I stated before, you will not know what the case looks or feels like until you get the new bearing.
I have peened the cases and used red loctite if the bore was only a few thousanths out. But if you have .010" or more I would suggest getting it bored and sleeved. They can machine the sleeve to hold the stock size bearing. But once that sleeve is installed it will last for a long time. Since good cases are hard to find and discontinued, I would repair the original if needed so I know it is right.


If you dont need case work then great, and the bearing swap is relatively very easy to do. But I would check under the stator and make sure the holder is not broken like DC recomended.
This is the bearing you need. I have to check my numbers for sure in my notes at home, but I am 99% this is the part number.
http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=16007+bearing&_sacat=See-All-Categories

All Balls carries this bearing too if I am not mistaken, but a little more expensive.

[RIDE-RED 250r]

Eddie Sanders offers a billet conterbalancer carrier. It may be a good idea to replace the 25 year old cast aluminum carrier on the stator side while you are doing the gear side bearing. They have been known to break when they get old and taxed. I believe that the carrier comes with a new carrier end bearing as well, but Im not 100% sure, it was a while ago that I got mine and I dont quite remember if it came with the bearing or if i had to buy it seperately.. I have one in my R and it has worked great.

http://www.eddie-sanders-racing.com/product_p/billet%20counterbalancer%20bearing.htm

ESR still offers alot of good parts for our old pingers.

[Dirtcrasher]

ESR has an awesome updated holder, be sure to check the right side also.

250R' s are always noisy but sometimes it can mean "I'm ready to blow up!"