View Full Version : NOT GOOD. think I FINALLY killed it.
Ohhh well... Think i finally did damage to the 87 T3!!
That new 39mm carb made such a difference ive been riding it alot more lately.. Took off the drag tires and put on the trail tires and have put 4 tanks of fuel thru it since TF..
Anyways... i had it out lastnite for a ride, broke the clutch cable and lugged it home in 1st thru the trails, after i put the new cable on it was OK, but about 1/2 hour later (after a big rip down the road) she just died, acted like no fuel or spark.. waited 2 mins and she fired rite back up like nothing was wrong.. it did it about 10 more times.. then it started running real lean all of a sudden, kind or sounds like its missing, if it had more than one cylinder id have checked for a wire off.. SOOO i figure its got a few things wrong w/ it.. Might be the DAMN headgasket AGAIN, intake gasket, jetting, fouled plug, rings, bearings, electronics (prob not w kx ignition) ... OR ALL OF THE ABOVE..
Time to pull the motor apart and do a total rebuild.. no since chasing ghosts just fix everything..
Ill throw the stock motor out of my 86 and stock swinger in it this week and the 300 will go into my 86 when its ready..
wish me luck
MIK6 / Mike
HondaHarry
07-20-2011, 03:43 PM
The pitfalls of a working ignition on a Tecate. They actually run long enough to break/wear something out! lol. Hope its nothing major. Sleeved or plated bore? HH
i have a sprock 300 w/ billet head in it w alot of kx internals.. ive been thru a few headgaskets already...when its apart going to swap studs incase thats the gasket problem. i jetted it for TF, might try rejet and a plug first... im not upset if its more, its due for bearings, seals, rings and a new rod anyways..
MIK6/ Mike
TatTooL23
07-20-2011, 06:42 PM
So if u have a Tecate bored to go to a new piston and rings, u need to get it nickasil coated right?? How much should getting it nickasiled cost? Or should it just be re-sleeved??
just ben
07-20-2011, 09:07 PM
its junk I probably wouldnt even work on it. you should just sell it to me! lol! it doesnt sound like a complete rebuild but really not enough info. could be as simple as a fouled plug. I know my 86 will run great then suddenly die. let it sit starts right up,doesnt run great but runs for a min. then dies. new plug, runs perfect for a week or so then the same thing. this is on an all stock set up. oh and tattool runs abot 180 for plating for stock bore more for oversize. sleeve is 100-175.00 and 120- 150.00 to install. pros and cons to both. look it up
nd4speed
07-20-2011, 09:18 PM
its junk I probably wouldnt even work on it. you should just sell it to me! lol! it doesnt sound like a complete rebuild but really not enough info. could be as simple as a fouled plug. I know my 86 will run great then suddenly die. let it sit starts right up,doesnt run great but runs for a min. then dies. new plug, runs perfect for a week or so then the same thing. this is on an all stock set up. oh and tattool runs abot 180 for plating for stock bore more for oversize. sleeve is 100-175.00 and 120- 150.00 to install. pros and cons to both. look it up
Sounds like your stator is crappin out. Bet some OHMs test low
nd4speed
07-20-2011, 09:22 PM
I got excited too see you were blowin out head gaskets (sorry), but then you said you had a 300 w/ after-market head. I've had lots of head gasket leaks on 3 different motors and wondered if it was a common T3 problem? (I figure loose motor mounts and head stay plus motor twist equals bad top end gaskets.)
just ben
07-20-2011, 09:39 PM
I got excited too see you were blowin out head gaskets (sorry), but then you said you had a 300 w/ after-market head. I've had lots of head gasket leaks on 3 different motors and wondered if it was a common T3 problem? (I figure loose motor mounts and head stay plus motor twist equals bad top end gaskets.)
so tighten your motor mounts! lol. I cant speak for the poster but I have never had a leak.I understand it is a common problem with aftermarket gaskets not so much on oem gaskets
fabiodriven
07-20-2011, 10:31 PM
So if u have a Tecate bored to go to a new piston and rings, u need to get it nickasil coated right?? How much should getting it nickasiled cost? Or should it just be re-sleeved??
You don't bore a Nik'ed jug. You either have it re Nik'ed or install a sleeve. If you go the sleeve route then you can do over bores.
TatTooL23
07-20-2011, 10:40 PM
Ohhh ok. So u can just have it re-nikasiled and that cures the scoring?
And if u have it re-sleeved then there is no more nikasil? It is then like any other where u can bore it??
not sure on wheeler jugs and getting them replated. I have honed many nikasil jugs on sled engines and had excellent results. had one jug out of many rebuilds that I had to have replated. I used U.S Chrome and with exchange it was 245 bucks for a '98 Thundercat 1000 cc cylinder. it was a quality piece.
just ben
07-20-2011, 10:56 PM
???fabio true you cant go over nearly as much as with a sleeve but can still overbore and plate
fabiodriven
07-20-2011, 10:59 PM
Ohhh ok. So u can just have it re-nikasiled and that cures the scoring?
And if u have it re-sleeved then there is no more nikasil? It is then like any other where u can bore it??
Part 1 of your question I believe to be correct. I have never had a jug re Nik'ed, but I think that's right.
Part 2 is 100% correct, yes. No Nikasil in a sleeved jug and it can be bored just like a regular jug.
??? true you cant go over nearly as much as with a sleeve but can still overbore and plateabsolutely! :beer
fabiodriven
07-20-2011, 11:00 PM
???fabio true you cant go over nearly as much as with a sleeve but can still overbore and plate
I don't understand. You can usually go .080 over with a sleeve and in the smallest increments possible to clean the bore, usually .010 at a time as long as it's cleaned up sufficiently.
Boring: A cylinder will require a boring operation prior to plating if there are score marks, grooves, or low spots in the bore geometry of the cylinder up to 0.010".
Welding: A cylinder will require welding and boring operations prior to plating if (1) There are score marks, grooves, or low spots in the bore geometry of the cylinder deeper than 0.010" into the base of the cylinder or (2) There are any cracks in the bore or bridges of the cylinder.
Part 1 of your question I believe to be correct. I have never had a jug re Nik'ed, but I think that's right.
Part 2 is 100% correct, yes. No Nikasil in a sleeved jug.you have never heard of a nikasil sleeve?
fabiodriven
07-20-2011, 11:14 PM
you have never heard of a nikasil sleeve?
I have not. I'm guessing you Nikasil coat the sleeve once installed? Why would you do that?
I have not. I'm guessing you Nikasil coat the sleeve once installed? Why would you do that?because Nikasil dissipates heat much faster than a iron bore, and oil clings to it much better.
just ben
07-20-2011, 11:20 PM
you have never heard of a nikasil sleeve?
I havn't. not saying that theyre not out there but nikasil or chrome plating are both very hard materials if in a sleeve wouldnt it crack trying to install the sleeve? or plate after installed? edit I took too long to type fabio beat me to it
fabiodriven
07-20-2011, 11:26 PM
I'm sorry, but that's a huge waste. If you like Nikasil, get it re-coated. The only benefit a sleeved jug has is the ability to be bored. You Nik it and it's defeating the purpose of having a sleeve.
I have been through this argument 100 times on this forum but you managed to word it a little different and suck me in.:lol: I do know that Nikasil lasts longer than a bare sleeve, but I don't think the benefits are as big as people make it out to be. I worked at a boring/sleeving shop when I was a kid (old news) and we sleeved a lot of jugs. They didn't do Nikasil there and we never got any complaints about any of the work we did there. I do believe Nikasil is superior in some ways, but I think it may be blown slightly out of proportion. The heat dispersion part in particular I don't buy, but I've never seen any facts in that department either. I have a sleeve for my Tecate jug that I was going to have installed but I never got a chance. The factory Nikasil wouldn't wear out! I now have a KX jug on there anyways, but 25 years is pretty impressive to me. I'd be curious to see how long a bare jug would last.
I havn't. not saying that theyre not out there but nikasil or chrome plating are both very hard materials if in a sleeve wouldnt it crack trying to install the sleeve? or plate after installed? edit I took too long to type fabio beat me to itnot real sure how the sleeve is installed but they are used in big bore sled motors. I once helped a friend mod a T-cat that was punched out to 1460 cc's. it was a PSI crate motor he bought and it had nikasil sleeves in it.
benefits of nikasil are better Heat transfer into the block, due to not having steel to travel through
Less piston/ring friction
Less wear
better high rpm durability with tighter tolerances
I'm sorry, but that's a huge waste. If you like Nikasil, get it re-coated. The only benefit a sleeved jug has is the ability to be bored. You Nik it and it's defeating the purpose of having a sleeve.
I have been through this argument 100 times on this forum but you managed to word it a little different and suck me in.:lol: I do know that Nikasil lasts longer than a bare sleeve, but I don't think the benefits are as big as people make it out to be. I worked at a boring/sleeving shop when I was a kid (old news) and we sleeved a lot of jugs. They didn't do Nikasil there and we never got any complaints about any of the work we did there. I do believe Nikasil is superior in some ways, but I think it may be blown slightly out of proportion. The heat dispersion part in particular I don't buy, but I've never seen any facts in that department either. I have a sleeve for my Tecate jug that I was going to have installed but I never got a chance. The factory Nikasil wouldn't wear out! I now have a KX jug on there anyways, but 25 years is pretty impressive to me. I'd be curious to see how long a bare jug would last.100% agree with with you. I too, am not so sure about superior heat transfer, and I bet its just the fact, that the nik bores do not make as much heat with less piston/ring friction. but thats why I like nikasil, its also more durable than iron bores. If getting proper fuel and oil, look how long the bores in nik'ed sled jugs hold up to the abuse they get. I am happy my Thundercat has those nik'ed cylinders when I'm doing 120 down a lake lol.
I have not. I'm guessing you Nikasil coat the sleeve once installed? Why would you do that?I re-read your post!
why? lets say you have a Nik'ed Jug with deep scoring.....it may even need to be welded and bored. the nik'ed sleeve adds strength and the jug still retains all the advantages of a nik'ed bore. less friction, more durable.
El Camexican
07-21-2011, 12:29 AM
Nikasil is great, send your jug to Kustom Kraft in CO. They will cut out the old coating and replate yours. All you need to do is put new rings in on a regular basis and your bore and piston will out last your frame. However if you wait till the rings are so worn that the piston is slapping you will be repeating the process again and again. Nikasil also disapates heat a lot better that a iron sleeve. I don't think you need to hone them before you change rings, but best ask the guys who work with them for a living to be sure. Your want to do any porting before the replate, not after. Re: Head gaskets if they are steel you may want to try copper spray on both sides before assembly. It works well on hi-comp 14:1 drag engines with solid gaskets. Last resort (and I mean THE LAST) is carpet glue if you are ever that desperate (it does work, but does not come apart)
how many here know that the latest generation of Corvettes use Nikasil cylinders?
Ohhh well... Think i finally did damage to the 87 T3!!
That new 39mm carb made such a difference ive been riding it alot more lately.. Took off the drag tires and put on the trail tires and have put 4 tanks of fuel thru it since TF..
Anyways... i had it out lastnite for a ride, broke the clutch cable and lugged it home in 1st thru the trails, after i put the new cable on it was OK, but about 1/2 hour later (after a big rip down the road) she just died, acted like no fuel or spark.. waited 2 mins and she fired rite back up like nothing was wrong.. it did it about 10 more times.. then it started running real lean all of a sudden, kind or sounds like its missing, if it had more than one cylinder id have checked for a wire off.. SOOO i figure its got a few things wrong w/ it.. Might be the DAMN headgasket AGAIN, intake gasket, jetting, fouled plug, rings, bearings, electronics (prob not w kx ignition) ... OR ALL OF THE ABOVE..
Time to pull the motor apart and do a total rebuild.. no since chasing ghosts just fix everything..
Ill throw the stock motor out of my 86 and stock swinger in it this week and the 300 will go into my 86 when its ready..
wish me luck
MIK6 / Mike
I have been moving the last few weeks.. i finally got a chance to rip into the TECATE tonight..
Here is what i found..
#1.. a tear in the fuel line, had been pouring fuel out before the carb..
#2.. 1 missing intake bolt, a few more loose
#3.. intake boot had warped, it was a prototype swinehart, 1 he changed the design way back when, i had it sitting and forgot to swap it out.. 1 call and as ALWAYS swinhart makes it good!!
#4.. leaking head gasket AGAIN!! swapped out from a sprock gen 1 gasket head to a gen 2 sprock o-ring head..
#5.. sprock cant count.. 7 holes for 7 studs, i got 6 nuts and washers LOL
#6.. head studs were not sunk deep enough in the head, they were bottoming, that's what was causing the gasket problems all along..
SOO.. tomorrow (or as soon as my parts come in lol) i will torque open nuts instead of acorn nuts onto a NEW o-ring head, get the mail to get my swinehart intake boot, put new fuel line on and got for a ride!! while I'm waiting for parts i guess ill do a little cleaning, polishing and touch up painting..
wish me luck!!
MIK6 / Mike
i talked to sprock lastnite.. we think that the original 300 jug had been decked way to far.. has forced me to run 2 base gaskets, also made studs too long and didnt let the acorn nuts torque to rite specs. this has been the cause of the battle ive bee fighting.
Sprock is an awesome guy.. 1 call and he is going to swap me out a new 300 kit.. will take a few weeks but he made it rite..
thanks sprock!!!
MIK6/ Mike
soo.... i figure i got afew weeks to wait on it.. went to my old place today, been moving, got a litte project that has been on the back burner since 06..
MIK6/ Mike
I cant get to the 2nd page.. i wonder whats up?
MIK6 / Mike
i still cant get to page 2 w/o replying.. then i get directed and can see, but only till next visit..
MIK6 / Mike
dcreel
09-01-2011, 11:54 PM
i still cant get to page 2 w/o replying.. then i get directed and can see, but only till next visit..
MIK6 / Mike
Its the ... in the title throws everything off
Edit the title and it will fix it
day 1 of my bored assemby...
MIK6/ Mike
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