Used a Time-Sert for my 350X drain plug

[TatTooL23]

So my 350X drain plug was stripped out and I ordered a Time-Sert kit to repair it. For those of u that don't know it is a thread repair/replacement system. It is a solid threaded sleeve instead of a spring like insert like a heli-coil. The kit comes with the bit to drill the old threads out, a counterbore for recess the hole so the lip of the time-sert sits flush and can't push inside, a tap to cut new threads, an insert driver to place and lock the new sleeve, a metal sleeve that u place up against what u r tapping so u stay square and 5 time-sert sleeves. It worked out amazingly well and was very easy to do. It has step by step instructions but it's pretty obvious. Nice to know it's done right and now the threads r steel instead of aluminum.

I would recommend them to anyone.

The size for the drain plug is 12mm by 1.5 pitch

[jrsqlc]

how much was that kit?

[TatTooL23]

it was $98. i know it sounbds crazy and it is a lot. BUT... u have to realize that it is done right. no leaks and stronger then stock. also it comes with 5 inserts. so i only needed on. i have 4 more that i could possibly sell to members to use

[hillbilly 200x]

So what happen if the drain plug gets put in to tight and when you take it out it pulls the sleeve back out with it? I am not trying to nock it but i have seen this happen befor. sorry fro any spelling and its just my .02. Aaron

[TatTooL23]

it wont come back out. the last 3 threads or so r cold rolled, so as u thread the "driver through it, it presses the last threads into the aluminum case with the threads u tapped which locks it there, also u use red loctite on the outside of the sleeve. go to their site and check it out. it wont back out.

anyway u should not be tightening a drain plug that hard. pretty common knowledge with an aluminum bottom end. i guess if u r trying to tighten it that much thats y u have no threads anymore. mine came stripped from the guy i bought it from. it still held (barely!) but just wasnt right so it bothered me and i didnt want it to leak and then blow up during a long ride.

[hillbilly 200x]

Oh alright I must have seen some differernt one at work then. the loctite would keep it in there tho. and I always put a crush washer on my bikes so that you know its seal with out tighting it to fare.

[TatTooL23]

yes and u use the aluminum crush washer or a copper washer.

[bkm]

That is great news. What would you charge a fella to use this and one insert? I might have to go this route if my oversized plug doesn't work.

[TatTooL23]

i could ship the kit out to u, you could use it, then ship it back, less one insert obviously, for $35.00. that would $5 shipping then $30 for the inset and use of the kit.

[bkm]

Let me see if this plug works and I'll get back to you. That is more than a fair price. Thanks!

[hillbilly 200x]

yes and u use the aluminum crush washer or a copper washer most of the time I use copper its what my auto parts store was. Do you have a ling or any pic's of the kit, my R was some stupit bolt in that leaks abit. thanks Aaron

[pcollins]

Way to expensive IMHO. The way I would fix it only costs about $2 and 10 minutes.

[TatTooL23]

^^^^ hmmmmm, well whatever works for u. i wanted the piece of mind of a now carbon steel sleeve that is seated and flush, with the threads of a stock drain bolt. seriously it worked great. they should have came factory like this.

u can see the stuff on the "Time-sert" website. i dont have a pic right now but i can take one this upcoming weekend.

[bkm]

Call it overpriced all you want , but I know for a fact that the timesert stuff is bullet proof. I have seen them used in every spark plug hole on a 88mm Turbo 4.6 Mustang Cobra build. Three seasons and 1300 hp later they are still holding just fine. And that's is after removing the plugs after every run.

[pcollins]

Call it overpriced all you want , but I know for a fact that the timesert stuff is bullet proof. I have seen them used in every spark plug hole on a 88mm Turbo 4.6 Mustang Cobra build. Three seasons and 1300 hp later they are still holding just fine. And that's is after removing the plugs after every run.

Spark plug holes are a completely different category. They're under much, MUCH more pressure than the simple oil drain plug. So while the moneys probably worth it in the Mustangs case, it might not be this simple drain plug hole.

[hillbilly 200x]

Spark plug holes are a completely different category. They're under much, MUCH more pressure than the simple oil drain plug. So while the moneys probably worth it in the Mustangs case, it might not be this simple drain plug hole. spend the money and do it right the first time.

[pcollins]

There are many other ways that are right that don't cost Nearly $100. The best way to do it would be to just never strip the hole out. Some of us don't have that kind of money to toss down on a thread insert and need to find other effective methods.

[SWIGIN]

The main reason I wont use a time sert for a drain plug is that some cases have a slot maybe half way up the threaded hole. If you use a solid threaded insert you are blocking this slot and are not draining all of your old oil.

This might not be a huge deal but I'll stick to simple heli-coils for things like drain plugs.

[Cave Rider]

Way to expensive IMHO. The way I would fix it only costs about $2 and 10 minutes.

$2 and 10 mins huh , let me guess..you are one of those guys that uses the rubber plug with the wing nut on it .. You can do it your way,and when you lose all your oil 1 drip at a time and squeak your motor,one of us will gladly buy it from you for pennies on the dollar IMHO... Lets hear your 10 min. fix...Im all ears

[Cave Rider]

The main reason I wont use a time sert for a drain plug is that some cases have a slot maybe half way up the threaded hole. If you use a solid threaded insert you are blocking this slot and are not draining all of your old oil.

This might not be a huge deal but I'll stick to simple heli-coils for things like drain plugs.

Thats where a depth guage and a cut-off wheel come in. Ive used both methods,and short of re-welding the cases, the certs have been a good solution..

[pcollins]

$2 and 10 mins huh , let me guess..you are one of those guys that uses the rubber plug with the wing nut on it .. You can do it your way,and when you lose all your oil 1 drip at a time and squeak your motor,one of us will gladly buy it from you for pennies on the dollar IMHO... Lets hear your 10 min. fix...Im all ears

You Go to the store and buy a Bolt the same thread size and cut it off 2-3 threads longer. Won't interfere with the engine, and about 99% of the time There are more threads in the hole than the old bolt reaches, so therefore there are still good threads in the hole for the new bolt to Snug onto. Slap a crush washer on there and its as good as the old bolt.

[honda250sx]

Typed this out a couple yrs ago. I always use time-serts. You need to look at ebay for KENT MOORE kits that gm/chevy dealerships liquidate quite often. I bought mine m4-m14 with all associated tooling for $100 shipped. Kit retails from KENT MOORE for almost $2100 dollars. I can post up the part # for the kit if you'd like.

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?94098-Another-way-to-repair-threads-time-sert-tutorial&highlight=time+sert