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View Full Version : 200x makeing weird noises..



BiGDawG
05-12-2011, 02:47 PM
i'll try to get them on camera but they don't happen to often.. but i've been hearing a weird clicking noise in the rear end while riding and also sounds like the head or timing chain is smacking the case from time to time, that seems to happen while going slow it will start sounding like that then try to stall endless i give it more gas, as for the clicking in the rear it happens while going threw mud seems to be the only time i hear it

wondering if any 1s had the same noises and if i should be worried lol

aaronsink12306
05-12-2011, 03:27 PM
as far as the timing chain sound their should be a nut behind the jug on the Left Side of the bike(left side if your looking at it like your sitting on it) loosen that nut up while the bike is running and than tighten it back down that should pick up the slack in the chain and take care of the slapping noise.

as for the clicking in the rear end could be a number of things bearings ect... I am sure someone else with chime in on that to give you some ideas

Good Luck

YoungJay
05-12-2011, 07:12 PM
supp CUZZZO mine does the same with the chain in the head but ive never hurd in the rear end befor let me look around and see :D

BiGDawG
05-12-2011, 07:30 PM
iight cool i'll try that and yea i have a feeling its gonna be my bearings lol i been riding in a lot of mud but i make sure and clean them after, been using pb blaster that might be drying them out..

jonny500
05-12-2011, 07:47 PM
i had the o-rings fall off the master link ( it was an old link and i think they were cracked) the link set over to one side and would hit the chain guide sometimes. now my rear disk has a slight dent in it and can hear it slipping between the pads.

BiGDawG
05-12-2011, 08:49 PM
my drive chain looks good i end up cleaning it every other day lol cant stay out of the mud, and usually when i hear the noise it sounds like its coming from the front of the motor

BiGDawG
05-12-2011, 10:05 PM
i been reading the manual.. sounds like mud water snow pressure wash and wd-40 are not good for them.. so i've been doing my chain wrong from day 1 lmao anyone have a way of protection the chain and maybe the disk breaks from every thing? maybe a cover of some sort, or maybe i should look info a shaft drive machine for the mud and keep mine for trail riding... i'll never get rid of my 200x its my first trike and i love it!

BiGDawG
05-13-2011, 08:45 PM
i loosened up that nut all the way till it wanted to come off then tightened it back down and now it seems worse.. do i take it off or just loosen it way up?

aaronsink12306
05-14-2011, 02:18 PM
if that made it worse could be the chain guide that runs the length of your cylinder is worse and not keeping the tension on the chain the way its suppose to unfortanitly the only way I know of to check that is to take the head off and see if its worn or not....on a side note one more thing you can try is loosen that nut again take a small screw driver and push the pin down in the middle of the nut tighten the nut back down and start the machine than once its running loosen the nut one more time and you should see the little pin pop back up and almost hear it once it does tighten the nut back down if that works than you just didnt have the right amount of tension on it if it doesnt than I am almost 100% sure that either the timing chain is worn out and the tensioner cant put enough tension on it to take up the slack or the tensioner its self is shot either way it would require a tear down pretty much of your top end....

BiGDawG
05-14-2011, 03:52 PM
i'll try that and hope it works lol i cant afford to rebuild it..

BiGDawG
05-14-2011, 04:48 PM
maybe i'm just paranoid here's a vid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mgi5tLGoEWU

Dirtcrasher
05-14-2011, 04:54 PM
All I can say is any of these ridden 200X motors will benefit from a new timing chain and guides. They are mostly worn out; Dennis Kirk sells a DID chain and new guides for a reasonable cost and it quieted down my old 85 200X immensely.........

shortline10
05-14-2011, 04:56 PM
Adjust the valves they are just slapping loose in their LOL but if the cam journals are worn it might not get any better .

BiGDawG
05-14-2011, 06:02 PM
not sure how to do that.. if i keep riding it like this will it hurt anything?.. guess i might look into having it rebuilt

shortline10
05-14-2011, 06:07 PM
IMO it really doesnt hurnt anything , it might peen/mushroom the top of the valves a little and make them a little hard to remove on a valve job . Just ride her till you have the funds to rebuild the top end .



not sure how to do that.. if i keep riding it like this will it hurt anything?.. guess i might look into having it rebuilt

BiGDawG
05-14-2011, 06:17 PM
hmm what all would i need to rebuild the top end? i'm gonna ask the neighbor to help me when i can get all the parts, i know hes good with all sorts of motors

Dirtcrasher
05-14-2011, 06:19 PM
You obviously figured out how the timing chain tensioner adjusts. Just download the manual in World Class Help forums and follow it. Probably .003 cold on the valves at top dead center/compression stroke. There is a "T" you align on the flywheel; All in the trike bible.

I think it will quiet it down some but you may still need some guides and a timing chain.....

shortline10
05-14-2011, 06:22 PM
We can guess all day long on what could be worn out but you really dont know till you take it apart . The first thing to check is the condition of the cam journals . A sloppy/loose cam = noisy top end LOL .



hmm what all would i need to rebuild the top end? i'm gonna ask the neighbor to help me when i can get all the parts, i know hes good with all sorts of motors

aaronsink12306
05-15-2011, 01:07 PM
its actually a pretty easy process to remove and replace the timing chain and guide and its not very expensive at all same with the valves the the valves are fairly cheap and as long as you know how to lap them your self your fine if not its not very hard to do your looking at maybe 30-40 for the valves or dont have a ball park on the timing chain but reguardless the little money and time it would take to redo them both I can almost 100% gurentee that you wouldnt have another problem with your motor in your life time (that is unless you run it with out oil Lol)

BiGDawG
05-15-2011, 02:54 PM
where can i buy the valves at? i found the timing chain and guide on denniskirk, for just the timing chain guide and seals i'm at $64 so with the valves i'll be a lil over $100, but what do you mean by lap the valves?

BiGDawG
05-17-2011, 03:23 AM
no 1 knows where i can buy the valves from? im not having any luck finding them..

redskinman
05-17-2011, 07:10 AM
no 1 knows where i can buy the valves from? im not having any luck finding them..

theres lots of them for sale on ebay,all different price ranges.These still might be available from honda.I was worried about doing the valves myself,like the manual says,they are supposed to be lapped and I didnt know how to do that so I sent my head to this place,they did a great job.Probably took them about a week after recieving it
http://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/servlet/the-183/Honda-Atc-185-185S/Detail

BiGDawG
05-17-2011, 08:25 PM
hmm did you have to include parts or did they include them in the price? by parts i'm thinking of the valves, springs..

redskinman
05-17-2011, 08:47 PM
hmm did you have to include parts or did they include them in the price? by parts i'm thinking of the valves, springs..

We will hydrosonically clean and bead blast your head once we receive it. We then check the guides to make sure they are in spec, measure the spring free length, RE-CUT the valve seats, install NEW valves and NEW valve stem seals, lap in the valves and finally vacuum pressure check the head to make sure the valves are sealing properly. 90% of the time the valve guides and springs are within spec and still good so they are reused. We do however tumble clean all the parts so they come out very clean and look like new. If however your head needs new guides or springs there will be an additional charge for these items. The cost of the kit includes all the machining as well as the cost for the NEW valves and NEW valve stem seals.