any tips on how to fix this tank?

[yooperman]

anybody have any suggestions on how to fix this crack in this gas tank? it was patched when i bought it and the patch job leaked, i dont get to work on the trikes to often if anybody has a kid or kids under 2 years you know how much free time you get lol. I got a chance today to tinker on the tecate so i figured i would take the old patch of and see what i had to work with under the patch. I was shocked!! to see what i uncovered, that made me even more un happy especially for what i paid for the tank expecting premo.

So if anybody knows anything that will work to patch this crack and will last help a fellow triker, and i cant junk it i have to much invested into it to junk it.

thanks trikers.

122624

[Nubbinz]

You can buy a tube of jb weld at lowes for like 5 bucks, just mark sure the tank is dry, squirt out as much as u need on the crack and let it dry for 24 hours, my trikes tank was leaking and i jb welded it , its held fine for like a year , but my tank has started leaking somewhere else so i need to put jb weld on that too, hope the info helps.

[playasridebmx]

im not sure exactly what kind of plastic it is. there are all kind of epoxys and abs plastic repair kits to fix that kind of problem. maybe someone knows what plastic it is and you can get the right repair kit for it

[yooperman]

hey thanks man, i was contemplating the JB weld route but i couldnt for the life of me remember if it held up to the gas or not, so i think i will go that route.

[yooperman]

i will check into the epoxy also never messed with plastic tanks before so i wanted to get the 411 before i went started messing around with it.

[fabiodriven]

That doesn't seem like the kind of material I would use JB Weld on. JB Weld is good stuff, but on plastic?

I would say your best bet is to find the right kind of epoxy as suggested, or look into a plastic welder. I don't know enough about plastic welders to know if that would work in this case or not. If you can get it a bit more structurally sound you could use a tank sealer such as Caswell. Red Kote and Creem are similar, but as far as I know Caswell is the only tank sealer that claims to be plastic tank friendly.

[200xkwit]

look around and see if you can get a plastic weld kit. looks like that crevice will be a pain. ive had good luck with taking some extra plastic from somthing else and melting it with a soldering iron into crackes like that. yall need to get the tank warm in that area with like a heat gun to soften the tank a bit so the melted plastic gets a good bond. Then after you have all that closed up give it a light sand and buff it out then maybe try to use that kream coating stuff on the inside of the tank for good measure... not sure if that stuff works on plastic tanks or not havent tried that one... good luck

[1984 honda 200s]

If you can get the Gas friendly JB weld (Marine Weld) then your set. If you use the regular JB weld it will work about a month then start leaking again. Id go with the Epoxy or JB Marine weld.

[Daddio]

Plastic welding is the best route. If you aren't familiar with it I wouldn't start practicing on your expensive tank. I do a little plastic welding at work, fixing car bumper covers. It's a pain and it works best if you don't try to rush it. You need to make sure all of the plastic is melted together to have a good strong repair. I have an antique Craftsman stick soldering iron that I use. It's big, heavy and gets HOT!

[viking]

I would say depending on what type of plastic it is look into a plastic welder or a good soldering iron as some one above mentioned
cause with all the epoxy stuff you probly will be doing it over and over and over again..however im sure there is some wicked epoxy that would work but would cost probly cost alot..
i have seen some coleman canoes repaired on a 8 day canoe hunting trip that were melted back together in a pinch ,,With nothing more than a large bladed hunting knife placed in a fire unitll glowing red '' And these canoes went through some serious ROck canoe smashing rapids and were still water tight after!..
The canoe and the tank you have could be simular in material if so again look into a plastic welder/ Soldering iron.. Or find some one who has one..

[AtcFactoryRacer]

I would go to a place that sells automotive paint and autobody supplys, buy a good two part epoxy that for plastic that is gas and chemical safe. Professional epoxy doesnt come cheap though it might cost you 20 bucks but you wont believe how strong the new products are. They make epoxy called panel bonder for glueing body panels together, that stuff is stronger than weld. if you glue two pieces of sheet metal together and try to pry them apart the metal will rip and tear before the glue comes off! I know it works on plastics too.

[Dirtcrasher]

I've never put shoe goo in gas, but it gets hard as a rock yet still a bit flexible. And seems to stick to anything!

[yooperman]

thanks fella's i appreciate all the help i have a direction to go now, not like before when i was like a lost puppy looking for the teet lol.

[200XMichigan]

Looking at the tank it looks like it could be weakened in more areas than just there. I would try to use a liner, or use some sort of epoxy as a liner. If you were to use some liner or epoxy on the outside you might be able to seal it so none would leak out. Otherwise if a glob of liner came out of the crack you could use a dremel to remove and re-shape anything that came out of the crack. If it were me I would try to re-line the whole thing.

Not sure how you're doing on cash, but you gotta be doing better than if you stayed in the UP (or anywhere in Michigan)...but there's a good one out there. I'll send a link so no one can grab it up from ya. Not too badly priced considering how rare it is. And it will be more time you can do other stuff with. I lined one tank and hated it and still wanted to replace it because it bothered me knowing there was a hole that was repaired.

[yooperman]

and once again the fellow trikers came to the rescue! thanks for all the help and info i wasnt sure where to start now i have a game plan i am going to give a whirl, here is my game plan tell me what you guys think of it i think it SHOULD work but i have had some brain storms i thought would work and turned out to be a big no go lol which is actually a good thing because then i have to come up with a new game plan. Makes me use my brain and adds to my experiance for future things it never hurts to have a plan fall through because makes ya have to figure out the problem, i think lots of the youngens need to go through this because it helps there problem solving skills instead of just having some one else doing it for them.

OK OK I am rambling once again lol the things i actually know about i get fired up and can go on and on like I am again i apologize.

anyways now here is my plan finally lol. i gathered it from the info all you fellow trikers helped me out with, first i am going to try that plastic welding never done it before so i am going to wing it lol have your fingers crossed for me lol. I am going to get my sodering gun and my heat gun, i am going to heat the tank up to the point it is soft and flexible i will heat it a little more until the plastic right where the crack is slightly liquified, then i have some clear plastic that is simular density and so forth to the gas tank plastic. I am then going to take my sodering gun and melt that plastic into the crack, while i keep it hot i will mix the melted plastic together until the crack looks sealed and fairly smooth. I will let is cool down slowly and as evenly as i can.

Once it is cooled down and hardened i bought some plastic weld epoxy from the parts store, I am going to mix a pile of it up and spread it over where the crack was. I am doing the epoxy a procautionary step for one of them JUST IN CASE situations, i will let it dry and cure over night or little longer to play it safe. This is the plan i came up with in my head, in my head it should work flawless lol but we all know how that can go lol. Things here and there may have to be changed or wing it here and there just like any plan does, I wont get to it most likely until tonight once the kid goes to bed because the kid is napping right now and I have a feeling he wont sleep as long as he usually does. Ever since we took the trip to MO is routine has been messed up and the boy doesnt take well to a change in his routine turns into a beast lol every one with or had kids that are under 2 yrs know what i am talking about can be rough lol.

Alright trikers let me know what you guys think of my scheme/plan? do you guys think it will work or am I getting my self into a mess? or heck is my plan plausable even? let me know your thoughts, concerns and suggestions on it, i think it SHOULD work but i want your guys tips and advice again.

Thanks fellas I appreciate all the help ya guys have giving me already.

[Jerm1179]

you more than likely will need to ruff up the area so the epoxy will stick....

[Dirtcrasher]

and once again the fellow trikers came to the rescue! thanks for all the help and info i wasnt sure where to start now i have a game plan i am going to give a whirl, here is my game plan tell me what you guys think of it i think it SHOULD work but i have had some brain storms i thought would work and turned out to be a big no go lol which is actually a good thing because then i have to come up with a new game plan. Makes me use my brain and adds to my experiance for future things it never hurts to have a plan fall through because makes ya have to figure out the problem, i think lots of the youngens need to go through this because it helps there problem solving skills instead of just having some one else doing it for them.

OK OK I am rambling once again lol the things i actually know about i get fired up and can go on and on like I am again i apologize.

anyways now here is my plan finally lol. i gathered it from the info all you fellow trikers helped me out with, first i am going to try that plastic welding never done it before so i am going to wing it lol have your fingers crossed for me lol. I am going to get my sodering gun and my heat gun, i am going to heat the tank up to the point it is soft and flexible i will heat it a little more until the plastic right where the crack is slightly liquified, then i have some clear plastic that is simular density and so forth to the gas tank plastic. I am then going to take my sodering gun and melt that plastic into the crack, while i keep it hot i will mix the melted plastic together until the crack looks sealed and fairly smooth. I will let is cool down slowly and as evenly as i can.

Once it is cooled down and hardened i bought some plastic weld epoxy from the parts store, I am going to mix a pile of it up and spread it over where the crack was. I am doing the epoxy a procautionary step for one of them JUST IN CASE situations, i will let it dry and cure over night or little longer to play it safe. This is the plan i came up with in my head, in my head it should work flawless lol but we all know how that can go lol. Things here and there may have to be changed or wing it here and there just like any plan does, I wont get to it most likely until tonight once the kid goes to bed because the kid is napping right now and I have a feeling he wont sleep as long as he usually does. Ever since we took the trip to MO is routine has been messed up and the boy doesnt take well to a change in his routine turns into a beast lol every one with or had kids that are under 2 yrs know what i am talking about can be rough lol.

Alright trikers let me know what you guys think of my scheme/plan? do you guys think it will work or am I getting my self into a mess? or heck is my plan plausable even? let me know your thoughts, concerns and suggestions on it, i think it SHOULD work but i want your guys tips and advice again.

Thanks fellas I appreciate all the help ya guys have giving me already.

Yoop,

All I can say is that plastic welding barely keeps fenders together from what I've seen/read in the past years. I'm sure it CAN work, there has to be a correct procedure but Jason Hall (whom I respect and admire) always brought up the point of expansion/contraction (gas tanks in the sun) and that we ride trikes on the tank so they are vulnerable to cracking again due to our weight shifting. Which is why he often replaces plastic with a custom aluminum tank. There is nothing wrong with trying; You can always find another crappy tank to practice on......

No one mentioned anything about "Shoe Goo" as I suggested. I wish I had read some feedback on that stuff. I have repaired some incredible things with that stuff and use it when studding an ice tire (plenty of flex there) and the screws poke through. Then possibly coating the tank after the repair. I'd probably sandblast the inside of the tank beforehand to help give the liner something to adhere to, then plastic weld or try Shoe Goo.

Most of you know by now that I don't take shortcuts, don't half arse repair things and always think towards a permanent solution. I do not know if it would hold, but I know it sticks to near anything and then forms a tough semi solid petroleum based repair.

I'm just thinking out loud. It may be useless but it can be ground off if it does not hold or gas eats it. And at 5$ a tube, I figured I'd mention it. Be forewarned, the stuff finds it's own level so the tank needs to be set up for it.

Again, I wish someone said "no, that will never work" or had shared there experience with the stuff but I've found it to be an amazing product......

If all else fails, one of the guys had a link for you on a good tank so hopefully you'll get rollin one way or another.

Good luck!! And please post up your results.........

[CRAZY70MAN]

Yoop,

All I can say is that plastic welding barely keeps fenders together from what I've seen/read in the past years. I'm sure it CAN work, there has to be a correct procedure but Jason Hall (whom I respect and admire) always brought up the point of expansion/contraction (gas tanks in the sun) and that we ride trikes on the tank so they are vulnerable to cracking again due to our weight shifting. Which is why he often replaces plastic with a custom aluminum tank. There is nothing wrong with trying; You can always find another crappy tank to practice on......

No one mentioned anything about "Shoe Goo" as I suggested. I wish I had read some feedback on that stuff. I have repaired some incredible things with that stuff and use it when studding an ice tire (plenty of flex there) and the screws poke through. Then possibly coating the tank after the repair. I'd probably sandblast the inside of the tank beforehand to help give the liner something to adhere to, then plastic weld or try Shoe Goo.

Most of you know by now that I don't take shortcuts, don't half arse repair things and always think towards a permanent solution. I do not know if it would hold, but I know it sticks to near anything and then forms a tough semi solid petroleum based repair.

I'm just thinking out loud. It may be useless but it can be ground off if it does not hold or gas eats it. And at 5$ a tube, I figured I'd mention it. Be forewarned, the stuff finds it's own level so the tank needs to be set up for it.

Again, I wish someone said "no, that will never work" or had shared there experience with the stuff but I've found it to be an amazing product......

If all else fails, one of the guys had a link for you on a good tank so hopefully you'll get rollin one way or another.

Good luck!! And please post up your results.........

Evidently this fella liked it??? Found this on the web....."I've been using Shoe Goo for 30 years to glue/bond/seal just about anything to anything: from glass to glass, denim to wood, most plastics and even a cap on a plastic gasoline can. It is still the best overall glue/adhesive/filler-sealer product out there. Forget all those crazy glues and bond anything types. They work only when conditions are perfect: perfect match, tight fit, ideal temperature, etc. I think Shoe Goo adheres well to sneaker rubber too;" I have used it but never in a gasoline application??? Interesting thought though DC?? Prolly worth a shot for that price.....

[jays375]

Look up Caswell tank sealer.It is really good stuff,trust me.It works on steel,plastic,fiberglass.Most important thing is READ THE DIRECTIONS.On a plastic tank you will have to rough up the inside with some drywall screws,when the wife isn't home throw it in the dryer.You can put duct tape over the crack and it will seal it right up.In the directions it tells you to put duct tape over holes.Wish somebody would try it.POR is also good stuff.

[fabiodriven]

Look up Caswell tank sealer.

Wish I had thought of that.

[250Eddie]

If nothin uve tryed works try gorilla hair fiberglass, scratch the tank up hard and them put it on there.

[yooperman]

well got the 1st part of my plan done i did my yooper version of plastic welding lol no more crack, there is not any warrenty on it though lol see how good it holds up with all the flexing and expanding. Tomorrow i will throw some plastic weld epoxy on it let it cure and test it out see if it leaks lol.

[mullet_boy]

Red Kote. Buy it at Napa, and in my experiences seals up great every time.

[yooperman]

well i got both spots fixed up i ended up filing down the brass nuts that are formed into the tank for the petcock, now it sits nice and flush i am pretty comfident that problem is resolved. i have the crack all fixed up not the prettiest right now i have to let everything fully cure then i will get it smoothed out, it will be noticable still but shouldnt be to horrible. I changed my strategy a little bit once the exspansion and shrinking, and the general riding stress was brought up I didnt even think about that part Thanks guys!!.

My plan didnt change to much just a little in the middle of my scheme lol i still melted the crack back together, after that is where i threw a little extra curve ball into it lol. Not positive if it will help me at all but in my head it will lol, so after i melted the crack back together i mixed some of the plastic weld epoxy up. I then put a layer of the epoxy over where the entire crack was i then put a strip of thin rubber over the top of the epoxy, then i let it set for a while to harden up some then i coated over the entire erea with the weld epoxy i brought it out a little farther then need so it has more erea to grab hold of. Once it fully cures i will throw some gas into it to see if i have any leaks lol, so every one have your fingers crossed lol especially when in my head my plan spose to wk perfectly lol.

My reasoning behind the rubber is for exspansion, flexing and so forth if it helps or actually works yeehaaaa for me lol. The other reason my ol brain came up with this was for like a secondary patch with in a patch lol, so if that crack opens back up at all it wont also crack the patch and leak again. So even if that crack opens up and underneath the rubber there will/should be a little bit a give with the rubber being there, it SHOULDN'T crack or damage the entire patch itself and start leaking again because essentially there is still another patch to hold everything in. But like i said in my HEAD this should work perfectly as well as adding the rubber peice, i pondered this rubber thing for quite a while actually and when i convinced my self it should work i was pumped lol. But now that i am all done with it i think it could have been done another way also every thing would have been done the same execpt for putting the weld epoxy underneath the rubber, now that i think about it more that route may have been a little bit better actual because here it comes again "in my HEAD" it would have allowed for more movement from the exspanions and rider abuse then the way i went with. But the way i went with should work also i hope aslong as everything works out like it did when i thought up this scheme lol.

But i Dragged this reply out long enough you guys probally are bored already since its so long lol, but I like to get all the info out there to ya's in a indepth step by step matter from what i have done and what i was thinking to get me there. I try te get it so when you guys read my stuff there is no confusion on any part besides my thinking lol. So alright fella's LET ME have it lol, because i am sure ya guys are like what the heck were you thinking lol, so give me your, thoughts, concerns and opinions on what i have done, your fella's input helps me out lots it helps me better and improve my work. I apologize for this being long i will get pics either tomorrow or the weekend of it.

[ctbale]

if your fix does not work out, you can use a sealant we in the aviation field call pro seal, it WILL fix your tank. Most cities in the usa have an AVIALL, they supply it. google flame master CS 3204 CLASS B AMS-S-8802 the mil spec is MIL-S-29574. it comes in a qt paint can, with a little 3 oz container with it, mix it 10:1 Its about $25 This stuff is so far beyond any sealant most people have ever used, It will seal anything. the adhesion properties are outstanding. it dries to the consistency of a firm rubber, like the bumpers under your seat or tank, and fuel wont ever affect it. I am going to use it to reinforce my zip tie frankin-stich repair on my fender. it will look like hell, but it will be the stongist part of the fender!

[JustEnough]

For spot sealing, Seal-All (made by the Shoe Goo people) is probably your best bet:

Repair and maintain oil pans, gasoline tanks...
(http://www.eclecticproducts.com/sealall.htm)

[honda4h]

automotive goop i used it a a old 1976 Polaris tx 440 tank for the hell of it with a big crack it sealed it and worked for over 5 years before i sold it its good stuff i use it on all sorts of trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro. its flexible not rigid