View Full Version : Honda Rear Brake Drum
grover2044
04-15-2011, 02:44 PM
so I have read and read posts about getting the rear brake drum of these machines, and really other than a BFH and PB Blaster is about all the info I can find... so I bought some PB Blaster and have a BFH now what... where do I bang the drum? do these eventually slide off similar to car brake drums? Anyone have tips to get these things off there? PB Blaster been soaking on there for a few days now and I still see no sign of movement...
hoosierlogger
04-15-2011, 02:49 PM
I put a section of pipe over the splines on the axle so as not to damage the threads and proceeded to wail on it with said BFH and drove the axle out of the drum. I didnt have any luck hitting the drum. The axle comes out pretty easy.
Crash5291
04-15-2011, 03:54 PM
my bench weighs ~550lb and i drove it 4 feet with a 10lb sledge trying to free the drum and that is with a torch to heat it its still firmly in place didn't move a fraction. going to end up cutting it off with the torch i think and that sucks since the brakes worked great i just need to change the bearings lol thats on the 81 200.
The drum on the 84' popped right off with a couple taps from a pipe wrench lol
grover2044
04-15-2011, 06:00 PM
I see a seam on the brake drum (right about where the guard sits), does it split away there? or does the complete drum set back into the guard that is around it?
I was hoping I wasnt going to have to remove the axle but it seems that its on there pretty dang good... I will keep hitting it with the PB stuff and whack on it some more, maybe I will get lucky (they say lucky is better than good at times, I think this is one of those times!!!!)
Any other tips and or suggestions welcome!!!
hillbilly 200x
04-15-2011, 09:58 PM
if you braek it i have one off a 1984 200m that i can sell to you for cheap
grover2044
04-16-2011, 03:04 PM
Thanks Hillbilly... Trying to get her ready for the Ganny run on the 1st... I appreciate the offer and I will let you know how it ends up.
Cheers,
Ron
hillbilly 200x
04-16-2011, 03:18 PM
no problem hope it goes well my drum is here if you need it
grover2044
04-18-2011, 10:45 AM
Well no luck with the whack and swear method, so I guess its drive the axle out time... I have read post about this process and it seems pretty straight forward, but do I actually need to remove the rear sproket? Or just make sure the chain and chain cover are off??
The bearings in the back are all new so I wont need to go that far as to bang it all the way out, just enough to get the drum off...
mi500
04-18-2011, 11:58 AM
yea you gota get either the drum or the sproket off.
grover2044
04-19-2011, 10:11 AM
FINALLY!!!!... The axle started to move this morning while whacking it, and boom the drum popped right off...Brake pads liners had separated from the shoes, drum looks to be in ok shape... maybe just maybe I will have rear brakes again!!!
Thanks guys!
grover2044
04-19-2011, 10:21 AM
For those interested I followed the manual in the removal of the rear axle, and other than whacking away at it the manual was bang on...
malibulvr
07-18-2011, 12:57 AM
Good to know because I'm going to tackle my rear brakes soon. I have no cables going to the rear drum and no foot brake. Who knows what may be going on inside that drum.
hoosierlogger
07-18-2011, 05:15 AM
You have to remember that when they wrote the step by step instructions in those manuals, the trikes were new. The parts didnt have 25-30 years to get a good grip on each other.
if you change your brake shoes make sure you remove the shoe actuator from the backing plate, and clean it on your wire wheel. then cover it with never seize, or grease the snot out of it with synthetic brake caliper grease. also ream the hole in the backing plate the actuator sits in, rust and crud builds up in there, and will make the brakes seize as well. lube 'er up good and it won't freeze again. :beer
H2Sbass
07-18-2011, 01:01 PM
It seems like quite often when the drum won't come off it is because the shoes are either still contacting it or they sort of get "cocked" in there as you try to pull the drum off. There should be a few holes around the drum where you could fit a punch or something similar to tap on the shoes and keep them parralel to the drum.
Vealmonkey
07-18-2011, 01:08 PM
Also what you really have to watch out for, is over the years the material on the inside of the brake drum has worn down. This leaves a lip around the outer edge of the inside of the drum. The shoes can't clear that lip unless you take all the tension off of the brake shoes. Often times, you have to disconnect the rear brake rod to get all the tension off the shoes so they will open up enought to be able to clear the rear drum. I've had it happen several times. Before you put your drum back on, make sure to machine or grind that lip off of the inside brake drum or you may have the same problem.
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