Stalls out after start up.

[carsurgin]

Trike - 1984 Suzuki alt125
Im trying to restore my trike. I got the engine running for a couple seconds, sounded good. There were no back fires or bubbling. No smoke either. It seems to idle at good level.
The problem is (its a pull start), when I try to start it, it will run for about 5-10 seconds then cut out. The Quick Start I put in must be the reason for start.
I have rewired and cleaned connections to grounds. Plug gets great spark (It went through my finger pretty good. lol.). I have replaced the kill switch with a 110v toggle switch. Wiring is correct, I have diagram.
Im confused, it runs good for a bit, so in theory cdi, coil and other parts should be good. Correct?
Can I bypass my fuel pump altogether and get a gravity feed tank? Is that possible? Would that help?
I have rebuilt the pump. new seal and no leaks or pin holes in the sheet.
Any advice?
Is it possible to switch pull start to kick start? I hate pull start!!!!!

[fabiodriven]

Use a gravity tank to test it and go from there.

[swampthang]

Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. I'd do like fabio suggested and rig up a gravity fed tank just to see. Have you checked out all your fuel lines to see if there are any clogs? Check the carb where the fuel line attaches then flows into the bowl, I've had them get plugged up there before too.

[carsurgin]

I know the lines and carb are clean and clear. Carb was rebuilt. I did try to rig a gravity feed up but the fuel just started to run out the bottom of carb. Almost like it was going right through. granted i did not have a pet cock on. could that be the reason? do i need to regulate fuel flow?

[fabiodriven]

No, you do not need to regulate the fuel flow. You have an issue with your float. Try it again and tap on the side of the float bowl with a skrewdriver handle or something.

[carsurgin]

Ok, sounds like a good thing to check.
Now if I switch to gravity feed, do i need to cap off the vacuum valve? The one that was connected to pump.

[carsurgin]

Ok. Ive cleaned out my carb. It was sticking. There was foreign material inside. So that fixed that issue. But It still stalls out after starting. I used a gravity feed tank directly to carb. I used quick start to start. It seems that the fuel is not getting to engine, like its just sitting in carb. there are no leaks. I cant figure it out. Ive tried to adjust carb screw open to close. any advice on what i can try next?

[RubberSalt]

Come to think of it, i had a problem very similar to this with my old xl250s dirt bike. The problem was valve adjustment. They didn't seat all the way. Mine would sputter up with carb cleanerr for 5-10 seconds.

I adjusted the valves, and now it starts about every kick.

[carsurgin]

Ok. now keep in mind. Im fairly new to engine repair. I get by. But am an extremely quick learner. Anywho..lol.
Is it very difficult to adjust the valves? I have the repair manual (i found on this site, thank you). I am going to give it a go when i get my new petcock. Should be a couple days. Then ill try the pump feed as well. Could it be a vacuum issue?
p.s. Ill post pics on my next post.

[RubberSalt]

Valves are pretty easy, just need some feeler gauges, wrenches and maybe a screw driver.

Each side(front and rear) of the cylinder head should have a cover pop them off and you should see the valves. Get piston to top dead center(close as can be) on compression stroke. from the rocker arms to the valves there should be some play(what book calls for). Use the feeler guage that the book calls for on valve clearance, and stick it between the rocker arm and the valve. If you can fit it in there, you need more clearance. If it moves very easy, you need to tighten them up. Just enough to catch the feeler gauge when you drag it through the valve and rocker arm.

Make sure when you tighten that nut that it's 10ft or so. You don't want that guy coming lose, piston + valve can happen.

[Xpress]

Don't forget that your engine needs to be warmed up before adjusting the valves, or at least fairly hot. I'd try to get it to idle so it's just a little over hot to the touch on the head, then dig in. Valves aren't hard at all, takes about 5 minutes or less to do them. Makes pretty big improvements to start times- my buddies 200x took 6-10 kicks to start from cold, now it takes 1-2 without a lot of effort.

[carsurgin]

I would love to run it till its warm... but no go. Im going to have to do it cold. Maybe it will start then i can readjust when warm.
But it sure seems you guys are right. Ill let you know in a couple days.
Thanks again for all the advice.