How do I remove the front wheel bearings on my 250SX?

[dougspcs]

I just pulled the front wheel to change the brakes..front bearings are shot!!

Anyway without a puller I can't get them out..thought about a little heat around the hub from the outside to expand it and hopefully let the bearing slip out.

Anyone have any ideas or do I have to take the hub to the dealer?

[MrPretty]

I use a hammer and a punch which seems to work pretty well

[dougspcs]

how do you get the punch to drive the bearing out? you would have to punch it out from the inside, the punch would have to be long and thin. also the lip on the inside to drive it out is really thin..

are you sure were talking about the same hub?

[MrPretty]

I think we are talking about the same thing. The Bearing that is supposed to look like this?

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae129/xMrPrettyx/IMG_1549.jpg?t=1301967763

That goes in here

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae129/xMrPrettyx/IMG_1544.jpg?t=1301967790

Like So

http://i964.photobucket.com/albums/ae129/xMrPrettyx/IMG_1553.jpg?t=1301967809

Unless by shot you mean the bearing has fallen apart and all that is left is the outer race? If that is the case I am not exactly sure what to tell you. I used a long thing punch and knocked the bearing out from the opposite side. The bearings were no longer good so I wasn't worried about messing them up. Once you get the first one out the 2nd one is much easier.

[dougspcs]

Cool, I'll give it a try. I will need to pickup a long punch..I tried a long screw driver just to feel my way down the barrel. It barely caught the lip. I didn't figure there was enough there even for a punch.

Thanks for the input...

[Dirtcrasher]

I sometimes grind one end of my long punch at an angle and angle that area to the bearing. I also have jammed something inside that opposing side so it has to hit the bearing and can't slip out when hammering on it. Once it moves, there easy to get out. Go back and forth rather than continuing to hit just one side.

You can use a socket on the outer race to reinstall the bearing and seal. Do not hit the inner race.

Grease the crap out of that bolt, they like to seize!

[dougspcs]

Thanks 'DC'..I knew the old salt would have some wisdom for the situation. How about gently heating the hub from the outside with a propane torch? Should loosen the fit between the bearing and the hub..ever tried that? No one seems to mention it.

I see what everyone means about the axles seizing..i was luck with both my 250SX and the 250ES. They both came apart, but the SX did take some extra muscle. I think both of mine have been apart before. I applied a thin layer of di-electric silicone grease all the way down the shaft.

The ES when I pulled it apart 1 week ago had no need for bearings..they were good, just seals. But the SX I pulled apart yesterday to clean and service the mud filled brakes was another story. Glad I happened to check, the bearings are screwd..

Anyway thanks again guys..I will head to the automotive store this morning and get a long punch to put your advise to use.

[C Kerley]

I tried the punch trick and even went to Harbor Freight and bought a screwdriver that is probably 24" long, but I can't get it to "bite" into the opposite bearing. I've messed with it for several hours and that screwdriver keeps slipping through the middle. I had plans on going today and picking up the bearing puller.

Also, on the same subject I guess....these All Balls bearings, there's no installing them "backwards" right?

[atc007]

You can't put the bearings in backwards. If the bearing breaks and there's just the race ,weld a couple beads in it to pound on. Go easy!! To not warp the hub. Take your time,it won't come out easy,but as you put a couple "dots" of weld around the inside,it will either start moving,,or breaking,,either way ,it WILL come out. Clean everything up real nice,and you can't use too much grease or antisieze on that axle! My experience over the years?? SX's seem to be the worst! They're my unicorn! I dread them going in,cuz everyone I have done has been a welder job! Good luck!:wondering

[dougspcs]

Went out this morning to buy a long punch and a small propane torch. I thought a bit of heat around the hub would loosen things..

Anyway I couldn't find a punch long and slender enough so screw it! I dropped the hub off at the Honda dealer for them to do..

I sometimes make judgment calls about the value of my own time. Spend an hour making a punch to do a job that a puller could do in 5 minutes.

I'd rather pay for it..leave the fight for another day and job.

[tri again]

Amen.

Sometimes it does get personal and I need to outsmart physics
or at least the engineers.

I got a nice piece of machine tool steel to use as a punch.
It worked because it held an edge and No flex.

But like you said, if we don't have the luxury of that kind of time
or luck, let 'them' do it.

Hope it goes back together like it never happened.

[C Kerley]

dougspcs I feel your pain on this. I have fought this Big Red for close to five hours now. I just bought the bearing puller from Harbor Freight and it's not coming close to budging it...even with heat and PB Blaster. Think it'll go to the Yamaha dealer tomorrow and the $50 bearing puller will be returned.

[Dirtcrasher]

You guys are crazy, a piece of 1/2" cold rolled steel cut with an angle and they tap right out. The 1st hit is the most important; Then the spacer gives you some play.

I hate to see guys give stuff to the dealer unless they are reasonable which doesn't happen in my area!...........

[pjschulze30]

IMO it's best to find a place such as MAACO....or another tranny shop that has a press. In this market $20.00 goes a long way when it could cost you more at the emergency room on stitches, or a broken window when you get pissed and throw a hammer through the garage window. Trust me....I've been in your shoes, you'll gain new friends at the shop for the easy money they've made, and you'll be content it only took about five minutes to do. The next time you need it, I'd bet it will be free.....DIRT is right, avoid the dealership ...your the guy they make their money on. Find an independant, or suck-it-up and do yourself.

[dougspcs]

I hear your DC, but I'm still ok with my decision to spend the money. I now have 3 trikes to tinker with..I'm sure I will find many challenges as I try to remove things untouched in 25 years.

Some say the job sucks, some that it's fairly easy. Be my luck that mine would be the seized bearing, lots of beating, lots of swearing..

I just wanted to pick my battle.

[Dirtcrasher]

You guys get friendly with your parts/service dealer??

Around here it's almost as if they act like there doing us a favor looking stuff up.............

[C Kerley]

dirtcrasher, any chance you could put up a picture of what you're meaning by putting an "angle" on the bar stock....I'm like you, I hate to take it somewhere, but I'm not making ANY headway on this thing after many hours.

The biggest problem I don't understand is that shaft that runs through the center of the hub (between the two bearings). It won't get out of my way enough to knock the opposite bearing out. It's loose, it just doesn't have enough play to allow me to grab the bearing.

[tri again]

Not sure if this applies, but my last swing arm bearings....
it's almost like they machined the inset for the bearing race
into the arm from the outside so there was really no place to grab
or smack from the back.

I got a cheap quarter sized grinding wheel and cleaned out just behind the race
and was able to get a bite with a supersharp non flexible piece of
tool steel, like a good drift, from the opposite side.

If you can imagine the odd angle, and try to match it,
the first pop is the one you want to be a clean
hit, sharp pop, with a hammer that won't try to bounce.

Surely more suggestions will come along.

[C Kerley]

Well I took my Big Red wheel to my local bike guy and he pounded it out. I see what you're talking about now dirtcrasher, but I'd still like to see what angle your grinding on the steel bar. He basically pounded on the spacer in the wheel to get it to move a little then just drove it right out. Now to clean it up so that doesn't happen again.

I'm still gonna get me a bar to do it myself next time though!

[Dirtcrasher]

^ Instead of the end being a 90, I may make it a 70 or 80 so it has a raised side when you look at it. I aim that raised side angled toward the bearing, apply pressure and give it a whack. If it slips, that angle rounds off and I grind it again. Your trying to find the teenie tiny roundness of the back of the bearing. Of course the rod cannot be 14MM or the exact axle size, it has to be smaller in order to angle it within the tube. Worst I've had to do is get it set up and then jam something in the opposing side so that angle HAS to contact the bearing and allows me to whack it just to move it a hair. Then its all easy from there.........

As far as picking your battles, wait for the swingarm bearings for that one :lol: J/K but some of those can be very tough.......