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Tippmann98
03-24-2011, 08:29 PM
I bought a 1985 250sx that had been stored in a barn for 3 yrs. Clearly my best bet would get a new carb but I like to try all my options before I give in to spending the money. I cleaned the bowl and jets and put the carb back together. I turned the fuel on and tried to start it for a couple minutes. I had no luck so I took the bowl off the carb and it was bone dry. I'm thinking my problem is a bad float valve? This is my first time inside a carb so it's a learning experience for me. Is the float valve supposed to be free and easily pulled out? Mine is stuck pretty good. I wanna make sure I have the right idea before I go pulling it out with pliers and ruining it. Thanks!

Thorpe
03-24-2011, 08:47 PM
Buy a carb rebuild kit... Easy enough to rebuild.... Cleaning, never seems to work... (at least for me)

Tippmann98
03-24-2011, 08:58 PM
I agree that's the potential next step. That doesn't solve the problem of getting the float valve unstuck tho.

hillbilly 200x
03-24-2011, 09:44 PM
have you tryed to see if you are even getting fule to the carb?? If I was in you shoes I would have checked every thing over clean the carb and fule shut off put a new line on it and blow evething out with compressed air and a good carb cleaner, just to make sure everthing is working.

Tippmann98
03-24-2011, 09:54 PM
Ya I checked everything while using compressed air and a can of carb cleaner. The fuel petcock was clogged up and I couldn't get it cleaned so I bought a new one. Put a newer fuel line on just to be safe. Opened the petcock and let fuel flow thru the fuel line into a bucket to make sure there was no obstruction. Then I took the fuel line off and used a syringe to squirt gas into the carb inlet and it fills up without coming out the bottom of the carb. This tells me the float valve must be stuck shut. Like I said I don't have much experience with carbs but I believe that to be the problem. I'm certainly open to other suggestions tho

tri again
03-26-2011, 04:34 AM
I've got one just like it right now but I lucked out and blew some marvels mystery oil into
the fuel line into the carb. and it loosened up and started working.

NOT recommended however.
I just went thru this carb last fall and someone left the gas on so I knew it was real close to perfect. and I deserve to get lucky occasionally.

Anyway. I usually blow into the carb fuel line after a rebuild and turn them over gently while blowing to make sure the float valve opens and closes.

The floats push up on a rubber tipped 'needle' looking thing and it either allows or stops the gas from flowing depending on where the floats are relative to the amt of gas in the float bowl.

There is also a tiny little spring loaded tip on them and I have also seen 2 different length float needles in the same rebuild kit.

Yes they can and do get stuck.

If you can get the cross pin out that holds the floats, you should be able to pull it out with needlenose pliers. but like thorpe said, it would be smart to have an extra on hand.

Clean that seat with a q tip or twisted rag
I reassemble with a drop of marvels or 2 stroke oil so they don't bind up.

Another cool way to check float fuel level is to put a piece of clear tubing on the float bowl drain and hold it up against the carb.

It should tell you exactly where the fuel level is.
(somewhere near the carb body and bowl seam)

Pretty sure I saw manuals still avail for free in the 'world class help' section too.

I've just been thru so many carbs in the last few months I never want to do another one.

Fuel stabilizer or drain the carb drain screw if they're going to sit for very long and they can work for years.

Gas tank stays full so it can't form condensation and fuel filters are cheap.

Let's see, what did I forget?

You'll get it.
Just keep us posted.

Tippmann98
03-26-2011, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the great reply! I had to use vise grips to yank it out and of course that damaged it. I've got a rebuild kit coming in the mail so I can get back to around Wednesday. My first day on here I found a free download for the manual. It's amazing how you can get just about any service manual you want for 3 wheels but it'll cost an arm and a leg if I wanna get a manual for one of my quads.

tri again
03-26-2011, 02:10 PM
so that float NEEDLE was completely stuck?
Like the last 1/2 inch of a broken pencil tip looking thing?

If so, you might want to soak the carb in hot water and vinegar or
take it to a shop to just have them dip it in cleaner.

Shouldn't cost but a few bucks or free.
Either way, make sure the internal passages are clear in addition to the jets.
Blow thru them with a piece of fuel line , even under water so you can see the bubbles.

If it was hard crusty crud holding the float needle, chances are it is everywhere and
needs to be dissolved.

info costs?
patents usually run out in 17 years, not sure about copyrights.

Carbs for the 250 are not easy or cheap to find.

Be super careful with the choke enrichment piston.

Very little pressure will pull the cable out of them.

Tippmann98
03-26-2011, 07:50 PM
Yes the needle was stuck. It really looked like dirt on the sides of it when I pulled it out. What kind of cleaner do shops use? Just a normal carb cleaner?

tri again
03-27-2011, 01:26 AM
Yeah, I just don't like having it around..
Like you can buy a bucket and paint type pail of it to submerse
your carb but it comes with many warnings.
Stinks up the house and isn't real cheap.

Every single plastic and rubber part needs to come out/off
and sometimes if you soak them too long the whole carb can come out like a blob
of nothingness.

You might get away with a can or 2 of regular carb cleaner with the red straws
and some safety glasses.
Sounds like you have brown rusty grit.
Sometimes that stuff evolves into crystalline tooth plaque that actually chips off.

anyway, your slow jet is like the size of a small guitar string .008"
and there is an emulsion tube under one of the jets that's prob full of the same stuff.

It's really easy to miss but it's like an inch or less long, hollow and about the diameter of a pencil lead.

Just do your work where it will not be disturbed and dropped parts can easily be found.
like a place with a floor.

Good light and safety glasses.

You'll get it.

Internals are fun, it's the olympic wrestling match it takes to get them off and back
on that I don't like.
Esp considering how many I've had apart in the last 6 months.

You may want to check the 'cold start bulletin'
to see if your vin # is on there.

Tippmann98
03-29-2011, 11:13 AM
Got the carb rebuild kit yesterday and put everything together this morning. 2nd kick in a cold garage and she fired right up! I've been riding it around too just to make sure it wasn't a fluke. Thanks for the suggestions drjoe, I appreciate it.

tri again
03-29-2011, 02:39 PM
Thanks for the report back.

Most people get stuff running and keep on going so we never know the outcome.

The only (other) thing you have to watch out for is.....
winding up with a few more trikes.
They're like duck decoys and tend to attract similar species.
:-)