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squirrel1182
03-18-2011, 10:03 PM
Is there any fixes for an slipping clutch(Manuel clutch) that will get my klt to last a little longer befor it needs a clutch? I have no cash to fix it right now and its my "hauler" for everything right now around my house till i get one of my farmall's fixed.

RIDE-RED 250r
03-18-2011, 10:07 PM
You could try changing the oil and making sure you have the clutch cable/clutch freeplay properly adjusted. Other than that, the only fix is a clutch rebuild

jensenracing77
03-18-2011, 10:41 PM
i have seen several people flip the friction plates over and keep the steel plates the same way and get a very small amount of extra life from them but i personally think it is a wast of time. it helped them get one more ride out of them but to much work for me to just gain a little bit.

squirrel1182
03-19-2011, 10:49 AM
I just changed the oil and clutch lever is really loose. Would a specialty oil for wet clutches help? I'm using Quaker State 5-30. Ive heard somewhere that if you scuff up your plates a little with steel wool it will give the fibers something better to grab onto. Is that true or a stupid thing to try?

Thorpe
03-19-2011, 10:51 AM
If they are slipping, the damage is done... Glazed fibers and discs... Gonna need replacement...

squirrel1182
03-19-2011, 10:55 AM
Dammit. Is there any hurt in running it till it wont move anymore? Cash has been a rarity for me for the past year or so.

jrsqlc
03-19-2011, 01:13 PM
I just changed the oil and clutch lever is really loose. Would a specialty oil for wet clutches help? I'm using Quaker State 5-30. Ive heard somewhere that if you scuff up your plates a little with steel wool it will give the fibers something better to grab onto. Is that true or a stupid thing to try?

is the quaker state a wet clutch oil? if it isnt then that is why your clutchs are gone......ALWAYS use wet clutch oil.

Any i would say not to ride it untill you get it fixed, if you do it yourself it can be done for around $100.
Dont ride it and cause more problems!!

squirrel1182
03-19-2011, 03:41 PM
is the quaker state a wet clutch oil? if it isnt then that is why your clutchs are gone......ALWAYS use wet clutch oil.

Any i would say not to ride it untill you get it fixed, if you do it yourself it can be done for around $100.
Dont ride it and cause more problems!!

ill have mom get prices on fibers and plates next time she goes to town. while shes there ill have her get some motorcycle oil. I guess ill just take my neighbors garden tractor till i get my clutch fixed so i dont screw anything else up.

fabiodriven
03-19-2011, 06:19 PM
5w 30 sounds a bit thin for that machine if you ask me.

Curtis-Tecate3
03-19-2011, 09:51 PM
You can try shimming up your springs .

RIDE-RED 250r
03-19-2011, 10:20 PM
X2! ALWAYS use oil specified as safe for wet clutches, and the proper weight, (usually 10w-40 for most older wheelers)

cr480r
03-19-2011, 11:03 PM
Ive heard somewhere that if you scuff up your plates a little with steel wool it will give the fibers something better to grab onto. Is that true or a stupid thing to try?

yes this does work, and it works well. Some clutches slip even when they have alot of life left in them.. Mostly they slip from weak springs, or using the wrong oil.. I like to buy 220 sandpaper and then use my finger in circular pattern to remove all glaze from both sides of the fibers.. I do it on the steel plates too. I have even sandblasted them when i had one handy.. Put it back together with some appropriate oil and I guarantee it will hold if the springs are good and the plates are still thick.. Too many people are quick to throw clutches away when they are still in spec... I have revived many clutches this way.. Its worth a shot if you have more time than money..

squirrel1182
03-19-2011, 11:26 PM
yes this does work, and it works well. Some clutches slip even when they have alot of life left in them.. Mostly they slip from weak springs, or using the wrong oil.. I like to buy 220 sandpaper and then use my finger in circular pattern to remove all glaze from both sides of the fibers.. I do it on the steel plates too. I have even sandblasted them when i had one handy.. Put it back together with some appropriate oil and I guarantee it will hold if the springs are good and the plates are still thick.. Too many people are quick to throw clutches away when they are still in spec... I have revived many clutches this way.. Its worth a shot if you have more time than money..

Is there any way to tell if my springs are getting weak? Im going to take the clutch apart tomarrow and check everything out on it since my manuel has specs for the clutch.

cr480r
03-20-2011, 09:13 AM
the manual should also have specs for spring length..

squirrel1182
03-31-2011, 08:42 PM
yes this does work, and it works well. Some clutches slip even when they have alot of life left in them.. Mostly they slip from weak springs, or using the wrong oil.. I like to buy 220 sandpaper and then use my finger in circular pattern to remove all glaze from both sides of the fibers.. I do it on the steel plates too. I have even sandblasted them when i had one handy.. Put it back together with some appropriate oil and I guarantee it will hold if the springs are good and the plates are still thick.. Too many people are quick to throw clutches away when they are still in spec... I have revived many clutches this way.. Its worth a shot if you have more time than money..



I sanded them down with 220 a couple days ago and it seemed to help for the ride down to my friends house,i havent been able to ride it since then because it got cold out and i just left it in his barn.I still don't have any oil designed for wet clutches but in the Manuel it says: Use a good quality engine oil, SE class or equivalent. What does the SE stand for?

Thorpe
03-31-2011, 11:00 PM
Its the service category for the oil... Check this link... Gives the details

http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/why_gf_5/regulations/motor-oil-performance-standards/

ctbale
04-01-2011, 07:00 AM
all automotive oils that are less than 10w-30 viscosity usually say "energy conserving" in the circle on the back, that means it has molybdenum disulfide, slippery stuff, bad for clutch plates, I use moble one 10w-40, trannys shift silky smooth, cluthes never slip, and its ez to find at wally world in 5qt jugs.

bcredneck
04-01-2011, 07:13 AM
i sand mine but i use 400 grit and ive tryed heating springs red hot and dipping then in used black oil it worked good once but it made it worse the last time i did it

oscarmayer
04-01-2011, 10:38 AM
manual clutches are different than semi-auto or auto stuff. manuals have to have stuff designed for it, where auto and semi-auto can run the other stuff. I've ran pennsoil 10x40 for years in my semis and recently changed over to castrol GTX. great stuffs!!!

cr480r
04-01-2011, 01:07 PM
manual clutches are different than semi-auto or auto stuff.

How so? .

bcredneck
04-01-2011, 01:23 PM
they both use plates and they both react the same way to oil

squirrel1182
04-01-2011, 09:42 PM
Do any of you guys use wolfs head 10-40? My good friend buys it many (10+) cases at a time and i know hell hive me a coaple quarts. Would this stuff be fine instead of motorcycle oil?

leevarnado
04-01-2011, 10:56 PM
what bike are you working on.

fabiodriven
04-02-2011, 09:44 AM
manual clutches are different than semi-auto or auto stuff. manuals have to have stuff designed for it, where auto and semi-auto can run the other stuff.

Oscar, where are you coming up with this crap lately?

squirrel1182
04-02-2011, 11:19 AM
what bike are you working on.

1983 klt 200c

RIDE-RED 250r
04-02-2011, 12:21 PM
Key info to look for on the bottle is "safe for wet clutches" or "motorcycle oil". Thats about the only way you will know if its safe for wet clutches. If you dont see anything like that on the bottle, dont use it.

pipeline triker
04-02-2011, 12:39 PM
I just saw your clutch plates on ebay the other night for $6.99 free shipping or maybe $3.99 shipping. it was an old set in a yellow package I think. I bought some stuff from the guy, cheap new old stock stuff. i do not think he had what they fit in the title only in the add. I am going to be parting one out soon but I would have to get more than that just for the used basket assy.

dksix
04-02-2011, 01:13 PM
I've had luck with blasting the steel plates and sanding (400 grit) the glaze off fiber disk as well as putting a washer under the springs. It's just a temporary fix for a permanent problem but might give you some extra time before it's completely gone. If the washers help, check into replacing the springs when you replace the disk. It's always good to support local shops but sometimes local shops sale at list price and you can get some good deals on old stock or after market brands on ebay.

200XMichigan
04-02-2011, 05:48 PM
Wolf's Head 10W40 will work fine. You can spend hours reading about wet-clutch oil vs diesel oil vs car oil and all the specs and moly, zinc, phosphorus.

Energy Conserving Oil=Bad
standard 10W40=good
Diesel Oil=better
Motorcycle wet-clutch oil=best

But out of standard 10W40, diesel oil, and motorcycle oil, the key thing is changing it frequently.

squirrel1182
04-02-2011, 08:57 PM
Wolf's Head 10W40 will work fine. You can spend hours reading about wet-clutch oil vs diesel oil vs car oil and all the specs and moly, zinc, phosphorus.

Energy Conserving Oil=Bad
standard 10W40=good
Diesel Oil=better
Motorcycle wet-clutch oil=best

But out of standard 10W40, diesel oil, and motorcycle oil, the key thing is changing it frequently.


Diesel oil? heck my friends dad buys that 15 gallons every time hes gotta change oil in his rig and he only uses like 13 gallons, Ill try that once mom picks me up a filter.

Dirtcrasher
04-02-2011, 09:36 PM
How so? .

Exactly my thoughts...........

Hmmm, one uses a lever on your bars to the clutch, one has a linkage connecting the shift shaft to the clutch. Same thing..........