Re-built my engine... help

[tother]

Hey everyone,
So just rebuilt the top end of my ATC 200 (was leaking oil).
I got new valves put in, cylinder bored/honed etc...

Got it back together and everything looks good. Timing appears to be good (lined up all the notches etc...).

Put it back together and wont fire up. I have a good spark, but still wont turn over.
Only thing I noticed is gas leaking from the overflow on the carb when I am trying to pull start it.

Thoughts, ideas?

[Headsup]

After a couple pulls take your spark plug out and look at it, Is it wet? Does it reek of fuel? If so its flooding, Dry it keep plug out for 5 min , try again. Also does teh plug look burnt?
Like black burned?

Is your jets in your Carb clogged? Try cleaning carb. Fuel line Etc.. After every change try and pull ounce or twice.

Also did you readjust your valves correctly?
Double checked and all?

If you can pull start it by pulling from a car and popping it into 3rd or so. Drag it 50 feet or so and see if she fires up,

[fabiodriven]

I wouldn't recommend pop-starting a new motor. You should figure out the real problem.

How is the compression?

[3wheelrider]

Are the cam lobes facing down on TDC? Did you adjust the valves?

[tother]

Spark plug is practically new, no burn marks.

Didnt seem to smell like fuel, but wasnt paying to close attention. The carb is actually only about a month old. Worked (or still does??) before i started the rebuild.

I will try tinkering with the carb, got thinking it could be the float very easily causing this.

[tother]

Cam lobes are facing down from TDC... I got the cylinder to TDC, lobes down than aligned the o mark with the I mark on the top of the case.

[trikes4life]

Did you but the CDI on backwards.

[tother]

with the cylinder still at top dead center I aligned the little indent mark on the CDI to the top... Beleive this is right. I am getting a spark ... so doesnt that mean its on right>?

[oscarmayer]

the rotor assembly under the CDI cover. put the engine at TDC. make sure the engine and cammarks align up. now check the rotor. when you put it back on the bike after checking cam timing, make sure the line on the rotor aligns up line on the puckup assembly. if it is not at top aligned up. your 180* out. take it appart and rotate the rotor 180 then reinstall. yes it can be 180 out.

that's the first thing.
second, if still not starting, take the carb off and spray starter fluoid down the intale and attempt to start. if you have spart and compression, it will fire for a few moments. if it does not fire, you have compression or sparking issue.

[tother]

OK - so dove back into this tonight...
Few more questions... Pulse Generator - took this thing apart and not entirely sure if i am putting it back together right... the rotor on the pulse generator assembly, how does it hold tight in? I took the piece with the springs and expanded it and the rotor seems to fit in there nice, the line on it lines up with the timing mark on the motor...

also carb is still leaking gas when i pull it... its brand new, but should i rip it apart?

and lastly, want to re-do the timing to be sure... the way ive done this is stick a screw driver down the spark hole to find TDC than line the cam lobes down etc... my question is how can you be perfectly accurate, the screw driver gets me what im sure is very close, but how perfect do you need to be for it to fire up?

[Headsup]

Yes tare the carb down, Should only be 2 nuts holding it on then 3 screws for bottom of carb. Check your float level. Check your valves.Also most times just a tooth can be terror on timing it back up, That's more then likely your problem, Timing issue.

As for the Generator, If you dont know how to tear something down or replace it the proper way i recommend not doing it.
Just ask for a manual and read over it properly//

[ATCrider42]

To find True Top Dead Center you need to use the marking on the flywheel. There should be a "T" and a "F" Use the "T" mark to find true TDC. If your carb is leaking that will cause you issues too. A. it's not getting good fuel pressure. B. it could be sucking air too.
Also, the only way to get your timing dead accurate is to use a timing light. You can get it close by lining up the timing marks but unless you know how to time and engine by ear, you'll need a timing light to get it perfect.

[Dirtcrasher]

It's real easy with a manual...... And yes, fix the carb leak.

Isn't there a 6mm thread bolt that holds the rotor on and 2 small screws on the advancer backing plate? Haven't torn one down in awhile.......

[oscarmayer]

read the manual, a screwdriver will not give you accurate TDC..... maybe that's why it's not right shade tree mechanic stuff is fine but you still have to have the timing marks dead on or it will cause issues and up to bent valves.

[tother]

Hey All,

So I did it. ended up being valve clearance, float on the carb and finding proper TDC that did it. It runs like a million bucks!
Only 1 thing left that I am hoping you can help me with.

The spark advancer holds into a metal piece with 2 springs. I basically expand the springs and the advancer twists into place. Problem is it isnt holding it in tight. There is a washer and bolt that hold the piece with the springs onto the shaft, but cant figure out how to get the advancer to stay in. After 5 -10 mins on it wiggles out of the springs.

[1984 honda 200s]

i just rebuilt my top end on my 200s so its pretty fresh. umm id say you got the wrong bolt in or your threads are striped on the advancer. mine did that too within a half hour of running. i didnt tighten the bolt down enough haha. id say if you tighten it down and it loosens up, put locktite on it.

[oscarmayer]

yea bolt is loosening up.

[tother]

bolt it was - feel kind of stupid for this one... honest mistake i suppose.
Got a bolt that fit, tightened'er up and thing runs like a million bucks. feeling pretty good for my first engine job ever.

Anyone recommend a decent pipe for it? not looking for noise, looking for something that will keep it quiet and not involve me having to re-jet etc...