yt 225DX pullstart help

[mdwohleber56]

so got all the parts in and got it all put together but the pull start is to ruff to get it started. i just replaced the spring because it wasnt recoiling witch didnt help but also it seems to be very hard to turn. it there anything i should lub up that would help?

[muthey]

loosen the nut that holds it all together, it will lock it up tight if you torque it too much , also lube the shaft that it all sits on and grease your rope, will help it last longer

[mdwohleber56]

thanks do u have any advice for the engine being hard to turn? anywhere easy to drop some oil or something?

[Kevo225dx]

Are you using the compression release?

[muthey]

does your motor burn oil cause I use my pull start all the time and it shouldn't be really hard to torn the motor over, also check your auto clutch adjustment you might be fight the tranny, if it is burning oil your rings might be shot and close to seizing the piston

[2Tim215]

I would do a oil change, make sure you are using the right weight for winter riding, like mentioned above be sure to use your decompression lever on the top right side of the motor, and look in your old oil to be sure you don't find any metal particles etc. Also make sure you don't overfill the oil. Hope it works out for you!

[muthey]

what is the weather like there, how cold, cause I know for a fact in my 225, that once it gets below 32*, they get hard to start, I use my electric start to loosen the motor then in a couple of pulls it fires right up, and I'm using 5/30 Valvoline, that may be all your problem is, just thought of that while looking at the weather channel

[mdwohleber56]

how much oil does the engine hold? the engine was a fresh rebuild so all the fluids where dry. just wanna make sure i dont over fill it. and the decompression lever i'll give a try ive never had anything with a pull start before it was always either kick or the starter acually worked. and yea its real cold out here in pennsylvania. probly like 20 something outside.

[mdwohleber56]

oh yea it moves so much better with the lever being pulled up. i still cant get it to turn over tho. i kno my battery is completly dead tryed hookin a charger up to it and it woulnt pull nothin. can i jump start these things by rollin down the hill then puttin it in gear? how much gas should i give it when trying to start it? should i have the gas peacock on on or fuel? these machines r foreign to me.

[mdwohleber56]

so the battery from the parts trike could hold a charge so i swapped it but now when i push the start button it makes like a clicking nose from under the seat? any ideas?

[2Tim215]

Low battery or the motor is to tight to turn over? Try pulling the spark plug and see if it turns over with the pull start. Never jump start a ATV with a running vehicle, burns out the CDI box. There is a little black plug in box (someone help me with the name!), that plugs in under the seat at the rear of the bike. If it is bad it will click when you hit the start button. Take the one off of your parts bike, clean the connections with a wire brush carefully so that you don't damage the prongs and see if that turns it over with the plug out. Also try and be sure you are in neutral and not in between by rocking it back and forth in first while shifting down to neutral. Maybe something in the gears binding as someone mentioned above? If you hear any noise in the top end with the plug out don't try and start anymore so you don't damage your sleeve in case its a broken ring. Hope it works out!

[muthey]

the black plug is the starter relay, also when trying to electric start it lift a little on the shift lever sometimes the neutral switch needs adjusting, and it won't register at actual neutral, mine is like that. If you are trying to pull start it rock it all the way into 5th gear, and hook it up to the back of a vehicle. While in fifth bring the shift lever up which will pull it out of gear until you get to about 15 mph. Make sure the choke is pulled and don't give any throttle, if it's anything like mine it will flood that way, when it starts to run start dropping gears really fast to get back to neutral, and let it warm up, but like mentioned above pull the spark plug first to make sure your motor isn't partially seized, if it is pull starting it will really destroy the top end if it is. best of luck and hope all works out for you. I recommend going to a pure synthetic oil as they will stay liquid all the way to about -50*, I was flooding mine out trying to pull start it before I put a new battery in it. If you get the electric start to work turn off the fuel till you get the motor oil loosened, then turn the fuel on wait a couple of mins for the bowl to fill and try pull starting it. It should only take a couple of cranks with the electric starter to get it loosened, also never hold it for more than 20 seconds, they will burn out or drain a bettery pretty quick if held too long

[mdwohleber56]

ok so the green nutrual light comes on and that lil black box i put in was brand spankin new. the clicking is coming from the starter solinoid under the seat is that sapose to happen? also wast r the gears in this thing? i was thinking all the way down was 1st then neutral between 1st and 2nd then 3rd and so on. if these are auto clutches is there a neutral switch or something to have held in to do the car thing? i was thinking of pushing it down this steep hill i have and dropin it into first or 2nd. and how much oil should it take to fill these things? 1 qt 2 qts?

[2Tim215]

The gears are all 5 up, last one down is neutral, sounds like bad battery you shouldn't have any clicking sounds at all, or motor froze. Did you change the oil and do the other steps we outlined above? It holds 1.9 quarts when completely empty. Be sure not loose the black O ring when removing the oil drain plug and when refilling check the oil level after about 1 1/2 quarts and then add from there until full. And did you try and pull it over with the pull start with the spark plug out? WE need to know if you are following our advice to continue to help you. Thanks, Tim

[muthey]

yes definitely try to pull start it withe the spark plug out. Anymore info we can provide you will depend on the condition of the motor which you will be able to provide us with the plug out and trying to pull start it also i don't recall if you had done a spark test yet to verify that you had spark at all, that will bring us into a whole new area of repair if there is no spark

[mdwohleber56]

hey yea ive done everything u guys have said the spark testr went good like i exspected its a brand new spark plug uh i pulled the plug out and gave it a few pulls and nothing. and the one battery is totaly dead and the other holds a charge but its not the normal one? i pulled it from the parts trike and it was under the seat behind the airbox and i cant get its mounting off because of rust. im getting really frustrated anymore ideas on getting tyhis to start? my hills all ice so i cant even push it up the hill n try a jump start

[mdwohleber56]

and the engine is turning fine it seams it just wont turn over and start. i mean does it have to have a fully fuctional battery to work? i didnt think it did

[muthey]

no it only runs the electric starter off the battery everything else runs off the motor, what is happening is with the oil being thick you're not getting a good enough , and fast enough pull on it and it is flooding out on you, or your float valve maybe froze shut, I'm not sure if we had you do a fuel test yet to see if you are even getting fuel, if nothing else get a magnetic oilpan heater and stick it on the motor towards the bottom and wait a couple of hours to let it warm it up and see if it it easier to pull, then try and start it, with the electric starter not working and me not knowing weather you are getting fuel to the motor, I can only guess the oil is to thick to pull start I have the same issue with mine in the winter

[muthey]

I just looked back through the thread here and we haven't discussed the fuel at any point so now I'm thinking it's time to have you back out the screw on the bottom left hand side of the carb, is the drain screw, there is a hose connected to it if fuel is flowing out then you are getting fuel, also are you lifting the choke lever on it to put it in choke when trying to start it? otherwise with the rebuilt top end it just might be really cold blooded,, did you clean out the carb as well are just bolt it back on, I think it's time to start checking on fuel delivery and make sure that there is no problem with that, the petcock should say on off and reserve, maybe pull the petcock to make sure its, not gummed up as well, keep me posted I'd like to see you get this thing running

[mdwohleber56]

hey yea ill check the fuel tomarrow. might pick up a new battery for 50 bucks. i know the petcock on the gas tank i have on it leaks so ill check the fuel drain n make sure its getting gas and i changed the spark plug with the other new one i had(two pack) and niether of them where getting wet so i atleast kno i wasnt flooding it. heres a picture of the one im trying to get running in good shape n those r the back up plastics. or well i guess i cant get a picture it wont let me attach it
http://images.craigslist.org/3md3od3l45T45W25S3b2be5177f6d3ed01e3e.jpg

[muthey]

let me know what you find out about all of the fuel scenarios I'm starting to think you are just not getting fuel

[mdwohleber56]

fuel is atleast getting to the carb i did the drail test on it and i was getting fuel into it. so next thing i did was shoot a tiny tiny bit of engine start into the spark plug hole gave a it a few pulls n didnt really get nething. i took it up the hill n tryed rollin down n droppin it into gear n i almost got it to start was close. tryed tp pull start n it again n still wouldnt turn over. when i trash n push start it with the hill should i have the decomp. lever up or down? also on the carb the idle screw for being this cold wat direction should i turn it in and how far do you think? im thinking about investing into the electric starter a lil more. if the starter soliniod under the seat click? i have an extra if thats bad but not sure if the spare is good etiher. also i have another carb i night try switching them out. let me kno wat u all think. thanks:lock:

[muthey]

I have my idle mix screw about 1 3/4 turns out from seat in this weather it might not hurt to have it out 2 turns, it is also known as the pilot screw, and I'm not sure exactly how far I have my idle screw in I do know if you really want to get it started run it almost all the way in, and make sure you have it choked when first trying to start it. You can always back the idle screw out a lil after you get it started have you cleaned and re oiled your air filter otherwise when you pull the bowl off the bottom, there is a starter jet there that might be clogged, it is screwed into the bowl. Make sure you have the 29u carberator, it will tell you which model if you look on the edge of the mount that attaches to the the boot that attaches to the motor, the 24w look identical but the jets are smaller. otherwise go through the online manual here and check the settings, it is located in world class help section let me know if you have anymore questions.

[mdwohleber56]

yea i looked and i have the right carb i screwed it in all the way n still no turn altho it does sound like its getting a little bit better. the air filter jet you told me to look at. now i take the seat and back plastics off and its on the bottem of the air filter? or is it that little square box thats part of the air filter? also about the starter solinoid. should it click when i press the start button? and when trying to push start it should i have the decomp. lever up or down?

[muthey]

the starter jet is screwed into the bowl of the carb, to check and see if your starter is good take a car battery and some wires form it and touch them directly to the starter, is what I did to mine when I wasn't sure, it will crank if it's good, then it will deal with the solenoid or relay switch or neutral indicator which is behind the shift lever, behind the cover that is why I said while holding the start button down lift on the shift lever a lil bit, and see if it starts to crank I have to do that to mine as my indicator needs to be adjusted, you shouldn't need to mess with the decompression lever unless you are hitting the what they call valve stops when you pullstart it, it just makes it so that when you pull start it you never just have the sudden stop, hondas seem to do that alot my than my yamaha as I never use mine, up is engaged, down is disengaged, and when you pullstart it with it engaged it will flip down on its own, have you checked the timing after rebuilding it, would have to go through the manual listed here in world class help section as I have not torn mine open yet. That little square box on below the air filter is the crankcase breather filter kinda like a pcv valve on a car is meant to help with emissions

[mdwohleber56]

yea i took my jettas battery out and tryed touching it and neither of the starters i had did anything. saw one on ebay for like 28 bucks plus shipping for a used one that works. and yea when i pull start it with the lever down i deff hit the valve stops or what ever u called it so i gotta pull the lever up when i pull start it it doesnt flip back down unless it will only do that when it acually starts. im thinking of heading down to the auto store and grabbing a motorcycle battery for it as well.

[muthey]

you're motor is definitely tight it should flip back down even if it doesn't start when you pull on the pull starter, I hate to say this, because I know it is a pain in the butt, but I'm thinking you may have to open the motor back up and check to see if something is in there wrong, cause that lever half disengages the valves, but should reengage, while being started, and you shouldn't be sitting on the valve stops, every time you pull it. Maybe I'm wrong and it is just tight, but we have pretty much went through everything else, and I am wondering if the timing is out of whack.

[mdwohleber56]

yea thats wat its seeming more and more like. so wat i think im gonna do is order a new starter and while im waiting for it to come in the mail im gonna try and put the top end back together on the other engine. its in a lil bit of better shape aside form the piston and its rings. the only thing is i know for a fact im missing bolts for it and id have to take them from the engine thats not turning over, but if i gotta pull the other one apart again anyways i might as well. and while im in the engine i can give everything a nice polish.

[mdwohleber56]

so i went out for a little bit and pushed it up and down the hill a few times and it almost stayed runing gave a chug or two then bogged out(with decompression lever raised) with it down i couldnt get enough speed when i would dropp it into gears tires would just lock up. although now when i try and pullstart it i dont hit those valve stops anymore good sign? i dunno still going to order a new starter and c wat happeneds

[mdwohleber56]

i took the carb off and tryed pullin it apart but the bottom half is stuck to the top so im taking that as a bad sign. the other carb i had came right apart and looks really good but its missing one of those 2 funky bolts and i get get one of them out of the one i origialy had in. soooo any ideas on how to unscrew those weird bolts? or getting the other carb apart?

[muthey]

are you talking about the jets that are made of brass? I don't think a new starter is going to turn the one motor over, I beginning to think the valves might be stuck or it's sitting way out of time. To get the bowl off the bottom remove the whole thing and take the screws out then tap it against a bench it should eventually break free, I have done this with carbs that have sat for years with gas in them. I get the jets out with either a flat head screwdriver, or by using a small crescent wrench which I don't recommend unless you have a really good one. I am also thinking your best bet might be rebuilding your spare motor maybe replacing the piston and rings as well, don't forget the valve seals, and possibly valves if needed either way if you do the seals you are required to shave the valve as the rebuild manual tells you.

[mdwohleber56]

so im gonna start rebuilding the other engine while im waiting for some parts to come in the mail and i found a local guy that will fix my trike but he wants the rest of the parts trike as payment....but how do i know if im buying the right size piston? i type in 85 225DX piston kit into ebay nad like 20 diff kinds come up. .60 over .100 over. how do i kno wat one to get?

[muthey]

not sure on trikes, but on cars your piston will either be standart or have a number stamped on it somehere, other wise best bet is to measure the old one and find out what original size is and go from there, use a dial caliper to measure it with

[mdwohleber56]

hopefuly ill be able to get one of these old girls back to life. its a shame when i buy stuff off ebay because they have videos to show the trike they parted out use to run it makes me sad that they kill one be4 its time but i guess im getting use outa it

[muthey]

You never know you might be able to get both of them going again, I sometimes see bolt kits for them on ebay and for the ebay guys selling parts it's all about the money to them

[mdwohleber56]

hey sorry its been so long have had alot of doctors apointments and wat not but so i got the starter and battery put it in and like i exspected still didnt turn over. to me it really sounds like its not getting any gas. ive cleaned and changed the carb around but i still am not ruling a carb problem out. i was also thinking about the ignition coil i do get a spark from the plug when i try and start it but it not much of one. the spark plug is brand new. i have an extra ignition coil i could try using if anyone thinks that could have any part in it