TurboTacoma
12-17-2010, 07:14 PM
Hey Guys:
I posted about this cam in a few threads. I even made my own, trying to get help with an overly rich idle problem that I was having after my rebuild and new cam install.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?122728-A-few-question-to-thoughs-who-are-running-the-Ebay-200x-cam
I found the problem! Someone here did mention about the pin being drilled in the wrong spot on the camshaft that turns the rotor. I dug through many posts and remembered a poster returning the cam due to this problem. But it didnt ring a bell until I went over everything I did. I made sure I set the carb like I had it before the rebuild. I cleaned everything up. I pulled the rotor assembly off and doubled check my mechanical timing. (Crankshaft TDC to Cam gear dot to dot with the head.) All looked good. Then I got my 1984 ATC 200s Tech manual and noticed that the rotor position wasnt looking the same as mine was. I had locked the engine on TDC, while I was going back together. So seeing this being different, I moved the timing all the way to the right against the stop. I got the bike running and tried to get it to idle again. Spec. says to idle at 1300-1400 rpm and use a timing light to make sure the "F" is lined up with the mark in the timing plug hole. Guess what?..... it was off! The cam was acting like it was off a tooth retarded. So I took the trigger pick off the timing plate. I ground back the the stop and then took some off the stock timing plate stop on the head. I fired the engine up with it rotated to the clockwise position and very close to the "F" make. It started to idle better too. I did this a few times until I got the timing dead on the "F".
My AFR's started to get much better. No more 10.1:1 more like 12.9:1-13.0:1. I use a wide band o2 sensor to help set up carbs to save time. (LM-1 wide band o2 sensor setup) So to make a long story short. The cam pin for the rotor on my cam was not drilled right and was causing me the head ache I was having trying to get his trike to run. I havent posted this info to the bikerchick shop "3and4wheelershop" on Ebay. But after all the work to get it timed.... I will see how this cam runs. I got it timed now at 1400rpm on the "F" mark. The AFR at idle is a stable 13.2:1-13.0:1 after a small tweak to the idle air screw. I am running the stock carb with these current settings 1 3/4 to 2 turns out on the pilot screw/ Slow jet #35/ needle set on 2nd groove/ main jet #102. This is the same setup I have in my g/f's atc 200 less the cam and 200x piston. (which runs great!) I know once I get my tires on my trike and start riding it, my jetting may change slightly due to load.... just waiting on tires now to ride it! I hope this helps others out if you get this camshaft from Ebay from the 3and4wheelershop!
I posted about this cam in a few threads. I even made my own, trying to get help with an overly rich idle problem that I was having after my rebuild and new cam install.
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?122728-A-few-question-to-thoughs-who-are-running-the-Ebay-200x-cam
I found the problem! Someone here did mention about the pin being drilled in the wrong spot on the camshaft that turns the rotor. I dug through many posts and remembered a poster returning the cam due to this problem. But it didnt ring a bell until I went over everything I did. I made sure I set the carb like I had it before the rebuild. I cleaned everything up. I pulled the rotor assembly off and doubled check my mechanical timing. (Crankshaft TDC to Cam gear dot to dot with the head.) All looked good. Then I got my 1984 ATC 200s Tech manual and noticed that the rotor position wasnt looking the same as mine was. I had locked the engine on TDC, while I was going back together. So seeing this being different, I moved the timing all the way to the right against the stop. I got the bike running and tried to get it to idle again. Spec. says to idle at 1300-1400 rpm and use a timing light to make sure the "F" is lined up with the mark in the timing plug hole. Guess what?..... it was off! The cam was acting like it was off a tooth retarded. So I took the trigger pick off the timing plate. I ground back the the stop and then took some off the stock timing plate stop on the head. I fired the engine up with it rotated to the clockwise position and very close to the "F" make. It started to idle better too. I did this a few times until I got the timing dead on the "F".
My AFR's started to get much better. No more 10.1:1 more like 12.9:1-13.0:1. I use a wide band o2 sensor to help set up carbs to save time. (LM-1 wide band o2 sensor setup) So to make a long story short. The cam pin for the rotor on my cam was not drilled right and was causing me the head ache I was having trying to get his trike to run. I havent posted this info to the bikerchick shop "3and4wheelershop" on Ebay. But after all the work to get it timed.... I will see how this cam runs. I got it timed now at 1400rpm on the "F" mark. The AFR at idle is a stable 13.2:1-13.0:1 after a small tweak to the idle air screw. I am running the stock carb with these current settings 1 3/4 to 2 turns out on the pilot screw/ Slow jet #35/ needle set on 2nd groove/ main jet #102. This is the same setup I have in my g/f's atc 200 less the cam and 200x piston. (which runs great!) I know once I get my tires on my trike and start riding it, my jetting may change slightly due to load.... just waiting on tires now to ride it! I hope this helps others out if you get this camshaft from Ebay from the 3and4wheelershop!