first things you should do when you bring home a 3 wheeler /"85 Big Red 250es

[frauke75]

Hi total rookie here never owned a 3 wheeler or an ATV only dirt bikes as a kid and a gold-wing now (like Hondas) ... and I just scored a '85 Big Red.
Just talked about how I got it in the Commencement forum “Big Red Xmas to Me.”

I bought this BR from the original owner and the only things he mentioned is that it was kept inside but up at his hunting cabin, he just put on new tires and battery and other than that it has never given him any problems. It is used but not abused (or so I can tell) and runs nice (or so I think) everything seems to work.

My question is... what would be the first things you (I) would want to go through after buying a BR on craigslist, to be sure to have a happy BR for years to come. A check list of sorts. ...Things you would want to know before just using it. I am not looking to restore this but to use it and besides fluids, filters and spark plugs is there anything I should be doing? I am mechanically OK but no motor head. I did not check compression or anything before I bought it. It started, sounded, and ran good and the guy I bought it from was truly a good guy that I am sure would answer any questions I still might have.

One weird thing is the gas tank... It is sucked in? All three sides are concave. No impacts or damage... doesn't leak so I have no worries and don't know how I would pop it out or if it would be worth the risk to. The guy I bought it from said it happened 12 years ago and he said “it sucked in”.
I assume he stored it with the vent closed when it was worm and a cold winter collapsed it.

Looking for general advice at this point and will appreciate any and all advice.

Thanks.

[Chazz of Blades]

Check the oil in the differential, the thing on the rear axle, check the main oil, take a flashlight and check the inside of the tank, check that the shocks dont give too much, or are froze up, if it starts and runs good then the carb may not need to be taken off and checked, air up tires. After sitting I will crank something and let it sit and idle for a while.

Sounds like you made a score bud!

[Chazz of Blades]

Oh yeah, spark plug of course. What I always do is take the plug out of the motor, and keep it plugged in the wire, and spin the motor, see if it sparks every other revolution of course, if it gives weak spark, or doesn't spark each time, that could be an issue, but normaly easily remedied.

[Jason125m]

the bigred i bought, the tank was caved in slightly on both sides from the guys knees... lol

[EarlyBronocGuy]

Change the oil, new spark plug, new air filter, lube all the cables, tension the cam chain and drive chain, check the brake pads/shoes, wouldn't hurt to pull apart wiring connectors and give them a quick spray of electrical cleaner and connect/reconnect them a few times to remove any corrosion. Check all the bolts you can reach to make sure none are loose. Run or drain out the old gas, use a flashlight to inspect the inside of the tank for rust or crud.

[mtsnieg]

It's also good to download a manual for your machine.

http://72.52.143.80/~trikes/Manuals/ATC%20manuals/atc250es-85-87servicemanual.pdf

[jb2wheels]

Wash it. I real good fenders off, tank off, behind the skid plates, scrubbing. You'll "bond" with it and find all kinds of neat stuff.
Lube anything that moves - lever pivots both hand and foot - all cables - throttle pivot.
Check the brakes - you might find some ugliness under the drums.
Change all the fluids.
Check all the bearings - steering head, wheel bering, swing arm pivot (if it has one).
Check the tool kit - you might need it on the trail some day - make sure youhave a spare plug.
Look in the airbox - might be surprised what is (mouse nest) or is not (air cleaner) in there.
Check the fuel lines - 25 year old rubber might need to be replaced.
Check around the battery for rust and fix it. Might just need wire brush and paint. Battery acid sucks.
Ride the ... stuff ... out of it.

[JayBone]

All the above and then invite your friends over to drink beer and stare at it.

[ratvespa]

Wash it. I real good fenders off, tank off, behind the skid plates, scrubbing. You'll "bond" with it and find all kinds of neat stuff.
Lube anything that moves - lever pivots both hand and foot - all cables - throttle pivot.
Check the brakes - you might find some ugliness under the drums.
Change all the fluids.
Check all the bearings - steering head, wheel bering, swing arm pivot (if it has one).
Check the tool kit - you might need it on the trail some day - make sure youhave a spare plug.
Look in the airbox - might be surprised what is (mouse nest) or is not (air cleaner) in there.
Check the fuel lines - 25 year old rubber might need to be replaced.
Check around the battery for rust and fix it. Might just need wire brush and paint. Battery acid sucks.
Ride the ... stuff ... out of it.

yeh, repack the front steering bearings, they are alwasy dry.

for the engine, oil change, defiantly check the valve clearance, they are easy to do, change rear dif oil like other posters said. Other things to inspect are spark plug cap...see if it's cracked...it's cheap insurance to replace it. the resistor caps tend to loose their resistance over time

[JustEnough]

The sides of the tank on my 85 250ES are all pushed in also. I think the steel is thinner or softer on these tanks because it seems to be a common problem.

I mistakenly left the petcock set to ON one day and it was fine for a few days, but then on a cool morning, about 50 degrees F, I left the side door open on the garage and the sunlight warmed the tank enough that gas started pushing out of the overflow of the carb. It must have spilled a gallon of gas before I noticed the strong fumes. It scared the TrailPro's out of me. I was so scared about an explosion that I opened the garage with the remote from across the yard!

I wonder if the the soft tank made it easier for the gas to be pushed out of the carb overflow?

[200XMichigan]

Download the manual, also the 250ES has an oil filter. It also has a lot of cable that should be lube real well. I like to use Tri-Flow teflon lube on the calbes. Also spray all the pivot points on the machine with a good penetrating oil. Also adjust the clutch, and valves. The 250ES has an automatic cam chain tensioner.

They are great machines. I just got one myself.

[frauke75]

Well thanks a lot guys!
This is exactly what I was looking for.
I got the manuals now and will learn how to do some of this.
I simmered down all the info into the following:
If you see anythig that is missed or is unnessisary or helpful hints I am thankfull for all.
______________________________________________
Wash it.-"bond" with it

Gas tank
drain out the old gas / inspect the inside of the tank
Check the fuel lines

Air filter - replace

Fluids.
Change the oil- engine & oil filter
Rear Differential - change oil

spark plug
Replace - check spark plug cap - take the plug out- spin the motor, see if it sparks every other revolution

let it idle for a while

Lube:
anything that moves - lever pivots both hand and foot with a good penetrating oil
Cables - lube real well w/ Tri-Flow teflon lube
Check all the bearings
wheel bearings
swing arm pivot (if it has one)
repack the front steering bearings

Brakes - check the brake pads/shoes - under the drums.

Wiring connectors - spray electrical cleaner-connect/reconnect them a few times

Bolts, all tighten if loose.

Check around the battery for rust

Shocks: don’t give too much, or are froze up

Valve clearance: check - adjust valves

Clutch /adjust

Cam chain - tension (The 250ES has an automatic cam chain tensioner)
Drive chain - tension (shaft drive?)

And the best two:
Invite your friends over to drink beer and stare at it
Ride the ... stuff ... out of it.

[200XMichigan]

The only things I would change is that you have a foam cleanable air filter, or should anyways, unless you have extra money might as well see what you have before buying a new one. My last three 3 wheelers have all came with newer Uni filters on them, so clean and re-oil and you are good. You may be lucky, you might not but no reason to replace a good foam filter because you will still have to oil a new one.

On the connectors I would spray them and then coat them with dielectric grease rather than connecting and re-connecting them, that seems to me to just be introducing extra stress to 25 year old wires, coat them with dielectric grease and reconnect them once and you won't have to mess with them for a long time. Dielectric grease is great stuff.

I also spray my exhaust header bolts with penetrating oil, and continue to do it on occasion, sometimes after a ride when the engine is still hot. Then it soaks in deep and by the time you take it apart it those studs will come out rather than snap off. Also I usually spray any bolts with penetrating oil, actually I will soak the entire bike except for a few select parts (anything made of rubber, or exposed brakes). Then when it comes time to take stuff apart is has been soaking for a good while. It's a lot easier than drilling and tapping later.

[Thorpe]

Check/change the fluids, gauge the tires, top off with fuel and enjoy....

[frauke75]

Great practical advice 200XMichigan
It does have a foam filter.... how do you clean them and what oil to use?
I agree with the dielectric grease and the penetrating oil.

Thorpe... I think you could be right “KIS” keep it simple... It was what I first figured I would do but then you get it home and you want to treat it nice.
I will probably get to all of the above eventually, but start with a good inspection for obvious problems then the fluids ,spark plug, filters and spray lubes and then just have fun... but then get to the rest in the spring.

One thing I need to address is on one of the lower rear fenders is pretty busted up but still hanging on. Think I will have to back it with something and glue it down to it or something. There are also other cracks too. What type of glue is should I use... like a two part epoxy?

Thanks again for the advice guys.

[200XMichigan]

I use 80W/90 like Honda recommends and I had the bottle out since I was changing the diff fluid anyways. I washed it with dish soap and let it dry by the woodstove. Make sure to let it dry really well if you wash it with water and soap. I have a can of filter cleaner and I think you can spray it and clean it and re-oil quicker.

A lot of times since we really hardly have any dust most times I just re-oil the filter, like in winter in Michigan there really is no dust kicking around.

[frauke75]

Thanks, 200XMichigan.... my father said to wash it out with gas (old school I guess) but I think that might mess up the foam.
soap and water sound better if it needs it, it looked quite good but I have not removed it yet.


Thanks to all that gave me guidance, it is appreciated.