powder coating questions

[swampthang]

Well guys I've had a frame powder coated for my Tri-z and noticed how thick the finish is. While reassembling I had to file down some areas because of the thick build up on the motor mounts,shock mounts,and swingarm mount. I would love to have my motor powder coated but if im having issues with the finish being to thick I think it wouldnt be a good idea to do the motor because there is alot of nooks and crannies that would be filled up and make reassembly nerely impossible with out grinding and fileing for clearance. I guess what im asking is, is this stuff supossed to be this thick or did the shop I took it to do a bad job? If anyone has experiance with powder coating can give me some advice id really apreciate it because I have alot of trike parts i want to powder coat.

[Dirtcrasher]

You have to have faith in the PC guy or school him. Thats what the silicone plugs and green tape are for, no PC gets in there.

If you got a nice thick PC on your frame that may be a great thing, or it may chip easier being over coated but I bet it was cured well and you'll be fine. Most guys ask them to go light on the VIN so the numbers still show.

You can file or use reamers to remove excess PC from the holes and threads. Normally, I put a silicone plug in there or I have a couple dozen bolts I thread in a few threads and just keep re-using them every time I PC parts.

[swampthang]

I've starting to do some research on powder coating,trying to learn as much as I can about it. Aparently there is a method they can use to apply as thin as .5 mils. here is a link to a page i've been reading very interesting too me. http://www.greenkote.com/PDF/Powder%20Coating-Greenkote%20March%202010.pdf

[dksix]

What color did you have the frame coated? Some finishes are multi stage and with a standard mil thickness for most PC finishes being 2.5 to 3.3 (.0025" to .0033") multi stage finishes can easily become .009" to .015". PC has a tendency to flow away from sharp edges (such as sharp edges on stampings) and shows light area's there. What some inexperienced coaters will do (and those using lower cost system) is do a standard coat cold, partial cure then pull the part out and check for any light area's, then touch up while hot. Hot flocking often causes heavy powder transfer, because the powder sticks instantly to the hot substrate at a much higher transfer rate than normal which causes build up on the area's where the thickness was correct. If you can post some good pictures of the problem area's I may be able to help with why there is some build up. Is there any orange peel, drooping etc? I'll give any advice I can. If you want to send me high res pics, PM for my email address.

[swampthang]

I had the frame coated a color called safety yellow. Its a solid color. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow. What would you recommend for a thin coating? Im new to the whole powder coating thing. Im no stranger to body work though I have a college certificate in Auto body so ive sprayed some paint. Ive been thinking about trying to do some PC of my own on smaller parts any advice to get a guy going in the right direction? What type of equipment do you recommend?

[Dirtcrasher]

I never PC'd a thing in my life prior to my "30daybuild" back in 08. It's searchable with a result.......

If you can flour some chicken, you can PC :lol:

There are tons of threads in the open forum, some in T-vania but you just have to read a few and it's chicken (no pun intended!! :D)

Or just go to a finishing website that chromes/plates/PC's (Caswells comes to mind) and join up or they probable show you how in a Sticky. Plenty of YouTube videos on it also..........

I get all my crap at Absolutepowder.com or Absolutepowdercoatings.com, I forget which or how it's spelled exactly......... But you'll know because they have good stuff cheap.......