200x Racer: The Engine Build [Archive]

xrider

11-13-2010, 02:31 PM

I'm currently in the process of building a 200x race engine and figured I would get a thread started. My goal in this build is to get into the 28 - 30 HP range. The parts list includes a 6mm Curtis Sparks stroker crank, Powroll .395 lift / .395 duration full race cam, Big Al's Titanium valve springs and retainers, Big Al's Copper head gasket, Wiseco .080 over 12:1 High Compression piston, and 31mm oversized Webcam intake valves. The flywheel has already been lightened, and the Rockers are currently out to be hardwelded. I am not sure which carb setup that I am going to use yet, but I have four that I will dyno it with. I have PK racing's 28mm Mikuni setup, Curtis Spark's 28mm Mikuni setup, and DG's 28mm Keihin setup, and soon to add a Sudco 28mm FCR carb. The engine I am using came out of my 200x mxer. It will go back in the mxer for some indoor racing this winter and Trikefest. Then most likely get pulled out and placed in my other 200x project. We have just torn into the bottom end to install the stroker and new kicker gear assembly. More updates to follow.

Thanks, xrider

seadoo650

11-13-2010, 03:10 PM

If you're installing a stroker crank, you will more than likely have to have a stroker sleeve put in the cylinder. Also I recommend running at least a 30MM. carb. They like alot of fuel when built that much. You can still buy new ones from Niche cycle supply.

http://www.nichecycle.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=VM30-83&type=0&eq=&desc=CARB-30MM-MIKUNI-SPIGOT&key=it

Dirtcrasher

11-13-2010, 03:28 PM

2MM over leaves the 200X with very thin cylinder walls. It's my personal opinion that a cylinder should just be cleaned up rather than bored close to or at the max.

Got any pics of the lightened crank?

shortline10

11-13-2010, 05:43 PM

sounds good will be keeping an eye on this thread

xrider

11-13-2010, 09:04 PM

This cylinder is already on it's final bore and will require the 2mm over, or else I would of went with a smaller bore. It is the flywheel that is lightened and not the crank actually. I have actually ran a 30mm round slide on a previous stroker and had a hard time getting it dialed in, but I do agree that they require a lot of fuel. I still have a 30mm round slide on the shelf that I can give another shot. What jetting did you use when you ran your 30mm? The Sudco fcr carb that I am looking at is actually a 28mm that is bored to a 30mm. It is sold by ct racing for a Raptor 250, (see the attached picture). I think the accelerator pump of the FCR would really help bottom end and starting. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

109353

xrider

aproudcanadian

11-14-2010, 07:10 PM

i think that fcr will be a tight fight, probably have to make some frame mods

Xpress

11-14-2010, 07:53 PM

If you do the stroker, be sure to put in stronger kicker gears. My last stroker engine fully stripped out the kicker gears......

xrider

11-14-2010, 08:13 PM

Yeah the FCR would be a challenge to fit. I'm hoping it will fit in with only minor modification, or a frame notch. If not I'll have to get more creative. I bought a good set of kicker gears with a stronger spring from Shortline for that very reason Xpress. The ones that came out of this engine were already slipping pretty bad. Thanks, xrider

xrider

11-16-2010, 02:08 PM

Did a mock up with the stroker crank today to check the deck height. This stroker will require a 3mm spacer plate. Just dropped a base gasket off at a local machine shop for a template for machining the 3mm spacer plate. Forgot to mention previously that this stroker crank uses the stock xr200 rod. Quick question though. For all of you that have built a stroker before, how do you address the cam chain? Can you still get longer cam chains, or what has worked for everyone else? Any input helps. Thanks, xrider

shortline10

11-16-2010, 02:17 PM

3mm spacer isnt all that bad and a good used stock length chain should work fine .

Did a mock up with the stroker crank today to check the deck height. This stroker will require a 3mm spacer plate. Just dropped a base gasket off at a local machine shop for a template for machining the 3mm spacer plate. Forgot to mention previously that this stroker crank uses the stock xr200 rod. Quick question though. For all of you that have built a stroker before, how do you address the cam chain? Can you still get longer cam chains, or what has worked for everyone else? Any input helps. Thanks, xrider

hot125honda

11-16-2010, 02:36 PM

Where does a guy get them stronger kicker springs? I am also building a racer motor for ice racing. stock stroke for now but 67mm 12:1 piston. I have yet to figure out what i want for valves. I would like a smaller stemed valve around 31-32mm and port the head accordingly. Im gonna run web cams big cam. I have a lightened fly wheel, but was gonna lighten one more for that. Was also throwing around the idea of dual plugs... I've gotta 34mm round slide carb. Was hoping to run it on methanol or corn juice (98%)
Derek

Dirtcrasher

11-16-2010, 02:46 PM

3mm spacer isnt all that bad and a good used stock length chain should work fine .

Mike, can't a longer chain be ordered from an industrial supplier with another link versus a used stretched one? I imagine that a new chain is preferred by you,me or anyone building a stroker versus a stretched chain. Unfortunately, unless custom ordered, I'm sure it would have a master link versus an endless chain. Just curious of your thoughts.....

shortline10

11-16-2010, 03:05 PM

I know the old Big Al's timing chains from back in the day came with a master link but to add a link dont you think it would throw the whole timing off by 1 tooth ? I have a nos big al's chain in my collection so Ill take a look . I would def much rather have a new chain and would try one first so see if I could get it to work even if you have to do some fabbing on the tensioner system but the easy way is to just pick out a decent stretched chain . I think a low hour pre stretched timing chain is prob the simplest way to go in my opinion .

Mike, can't a longer chain be ordered from an industrial supplier with another link versus a used stretched one? I imagine that a new chain is preferred by you,me or anyone building a stroker versus a stretched chain. Unfortunately, unless custom ordered, I'm sure it would have a master link versus an endless chain. Just curious of your thoughts.....

xrider

11-16-2010, 03:28 PM

My problem is that the timing chain that came out of the motor is shot and it is the only one that I have. A new timing chain would be ideal, but anything at this point that would be reliable and fit well would be feasible. I just don't want the timing chain to be the weak link in my setup if possible.

WilliamJ

11-16-2010, 04:28 PM

A longer chain would not put the timing out a notch, but you are right that if you relied on standard marks the extra spacer would. When building a race engine you don't time the cam using factory marks, you must make your own set of timing marks and you make the cam sprocket adjustable (if it isn't already) by slotting the holes and utlimately pinning it to the end of the cam. You find both full lift points and start with it 'straight up' or whatever the cam grinder recommends. Then when you have broken in the cam and got the motor running really nicely - jetting timing etc - you advance or retard the cam a few degrees and see what works best.

Bill

Dirtcrasher

11-16-2010, 08:04 PM

Maybe I sound stupid: But the crank turns 2X for every revolution of the cam. It shouldn't matter if the chain were 5 miles long?? It wouldn't be any different than an extended swinger, same gearing, just a longer chain.

Or, I'm nuts.............

SWIGIN

11-16-2010, 08:19 PM

shortline10

11-16-2010, 10:40 PM

The last one of these I did used a 5mm spacer and a stock timing chain worked , so I really dont see a problem using A new chain on your 3mm spacer . You should have a degreable timing sprocket anyway to get it dialed in perfect .

My problem is that the timing chain that came out of the motor is shot and it is the only one that I have. A new timing chain would be ideal, but anything at this point that would be reliable and fit well would be feasible. I just don't want the timing chain to be the weak link in my setup if possible.

WilliamJ

11-17-2010, 05:52 PM

You are 100% right. The chain length and the spacer don't mean a thing to the timing.

But do you agree the spacer will affect the timing if you don't have an adjustable sprocket?

WIkid500

11-17-2010, 07:33 PM

But do you agree the spacer will affect the timing if you don't have an adjustable sprocket?

No it will not. The only thing that is different is the distance from crank shaft centerline to camshaft centerline.

Dirtcrasher

11-17-2010, 09:18 PM

WilliamJ

11-18-2010, 06:01 PM

No it will not. The only thing that is different is the distance from crank shaft centerline to camshaft centerline.

Okay maybe we are misunderstanding each other.

Imagine that the chain is still attached when you move the cam further away from the crank. Assume the crank is prevented from turning. The cam will be forced to rotate slightly because the chain won't stretch om the tight side. The only way of correcting this is to adjust the cam in relation to the sprocket. Do you agree with that?

SWIGIN

11-18-2010, 06:27 PM

Only if you extend 1 side of the chain.

Since the chain is never on when you install a cam what your saying really hurts my brain....lol

shortline10

11-18-2010, 06:28 PM

I dont see how you can add a link without using a degreeable/adjustable timing sprocket . It just seems to me it would throw everthing out of time . Maybe I'm just Nutz LOL

WilliamJ

11-18-2010, 06:29 PM

If you read up at any of the camshaft websites, they all recommend making sure to degree in the cam.

An 83-85 200X isn't that hard to get set but you better be good with math and the understandings of how an engine works. Honestly, I never thought about how much there was to it until I started reading. Me, being an 86 fan, I'm screwed - the sprocket is welded to the cam. But, if it's that important I'll bet there are ways to degree that in also with the time, materials and knowledge.....

The sprocket is welded to the cam????? I have never seen that before but I don't have an 86 here.

Would this work?

Bore / drill a 12mm hole in the centre of the sprocket through into the cam. Make a dowel to fill this hole as a locator. Cut through between the side of the sprocket and the end of the cam. Make a spacer plate to replace the cut thickness This could be fixed to the sprocket and the dowel could also be fixed to the sprocket. Drill and tap three holes in the cam. Make three slotted holes in the sprocket and spacer plate.

If you want to get fancy you could use a set of say four offset spaced holes in the sprocket and cam to adjust 1 degree at a time - fiddly to do and only necessary if you want to play around with the timing on a dyno. I generally find the timing I want and then drill one hole and use a small roll pin to locate the sprocket to the cam.

The way of timing a cam I was taught was to use the Lobe Centreline (or Separation) Angle, having found the full lift points of the inlet and exhaust lobes. Then it is fairly easy to advance or retard the cam in relation to this.
As you say there is a lot to cams and you need to get competent with some maths and geometry.

shortline10

11-18-2010, 07:32 PM

Picture of an original aftermarket degreeable timing sprocket for a 200x .

I found the best method for using one of these was just trial and error . Advancing or retarding for the type of power I was looking for . A degree wheel is supposed to make it perfect to cam specs but not always making power were we wanted it . Lots of testing but def worth while .

WIkid500

11-18-2010, 09:50 PM

Only if you extend 1 side of the chain.

Since the chain is never on when you install a cam what your saying really hurts my brain....lol

Thank you Swigin!!! It is Impossible to install the spacer without taking the cam and cam chain off.

Dirtcrasher

11-18-2010, 10:24 PM

^ Of course it does, how do you get the plate under there when it all comes apart? The only reason anyone would leave that together is if they were too chicken to re-time the cam and adjust the valves :lol:

If I had to guess, the cam sprocket should have exactly twice the amount of teeth on the crank sprocket......

SWIGIN

11-19-2010, 05:53 PM

Basically, with a 3mm plate you are only taking up the slack in the stock chain. No one is adding links or anything else. It is normal for builders to use old/used chains in new motors to ease installation of the cam. But in no way does a spacer or a longer chain change timing when you are building a new motor.

That being said, If you built a motor say, 10 years ago and the then new chain is now stretched say, 2 inchs longer then it was when it was new. The timing would be different from when it was new. But chains do not stretch 2 inchs and the effect from normal chain stretch is minimal.

Now say you are adding a link or 2 to a chain for whatever reason. This does not change timing at all unless the teeth of the sprocket fall between a link. Then it would be off a tad but If you were building a true race motor and needing to add links you would also be degreeing your cam, and I highly boubt more then a handfull on here has ever degreeed a ATV cam.

So basicly once you degree the cam to get the most power from it, you might not be even close to the timing marks anyway so being ''out of time'' is a great thing sometimes.

xrider

12-21-2010, 08:02 PM

The new carb just came in. It is a Sudco 28mm FCR bored out to a 30mm by CT Racing. The technology of this thing is unreal. It is going to be a challenge to make it fit as it is way bigger than I was expecting, but I will make it work. I took pictures of it next to a 28mm DG Keihin 200x carb so you can see how big it really is. The bottom end of the motor is together now and I just finished making the spacer plate. Should be able to have the motor all together and ready early January. Thanks, xrider

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0176.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0177.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0180.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0179.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0173.jpg

Kfx-xc-racer88

12-22-2010, 03:35 PM

nice carb m8!!!

oscarmayer

12-22-2010, 04:44 PM

why not use a mikuni 30mm? they ae fairly cheap and can be found all over ebay. they bolt into stock location easly as well.

--------------------------
i agree with a very lightly used but slightly stretches (broken in) chain. it's stock and it will work fine. the stretched length is about 3/4s of a link.

if you increase your intake valve, you need to look at the exhaust.

also the shop that did my head specializeds in head work for anything.
www.theoldone.com
endyn is the shop
817-924-9334

They do CNC valve seat work and porting. really good shop. very highly specialized and you will really like their work.They can probebly work with you on your project and get you a really nice winning motor.

xrider

12-22-2010, 08:34 PM

I have Mikuni's laying everywhere. Part of the reason for going with the Keihin is the accelerator pump. I think it will help alot on starting and low end powerband. Plus, Keihin claims a 1 HP increase over a Mikuni flatslide.

WIkid500

12-22-2010, 09:54 PM

If you have Mik's everywhere are you willing to part with a good one for my 200x?

oscarmayer

12-23-2010, 09:24 AM

^ yea no kidding. Actually the claim is not accurate. it won;t really help much if at all. your better off with a "dial-a-jet" setup. those things are awesome!

But seriously if your going to spend the $ on doing the motor, Talk to Endyn. www.theoldone.com

xrider

12-23-2010, 03:38 PM

Alot of the carb setups I have for the 200x are rare and I am going to hang on to. I do have a 28mm Mikuni round slide that I would sell. It has less than 3 hours of use on it. You would have to find an aftermarket intake or make one to mount it tho as I am keeping the PK intake manifold i used with it for use with the FCR carb. Thanks for the heads up Oscarmayer, but I have a good handle on the valve work and porting. The guy who did my head work has been building race motors for years for motorcycles and quads. Thanks, xrider

Jammtee

12-23-2010, 07:58 PM

pk intake? i'm sorry if i sound like a newbe but what kinda intake is that? is there intakes off of other bikes that will bolt up to the 200 head? what material would you use to make your own intake? once again, sorry for sounding like a D A.

xrider

12-23-2010, 08:30 PM

Everyone has to start somewhere. PK racing was an aftermarket company in the 80's. They sold an intake manifold for a 200x that allowed you to run larger mikuni carbs. I also have DG's Keihin 28mm carb and matching intake, Curtis Spark's 28mm Mikuni with intake, and Kerker's intake manifold as well. Aluminum can be used to make your own intake, they are pretty simple to make.

xrider

01-15-2011, 12:22 AM

I finally got the motor all together now. I ended up painting the bottom end and bead blasting the top end as well. I have most of the 200x back together. The plan is to fire it up and start tuning it on the dyno this week. The flywheel was also lightened an additional 6 oz so this motor should rev like crazy. Let me know what you all think.

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0182.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0181.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0186.jpg

shortline10

01-15-2011, 08:36 AM

Looks great . I guess their was no timing chain issues .

I finally got the motor all together now. I ended up painting the bottom end and bead blasting the top end as well. I have most of the 200x back together. The plan is to fire it up and start tuning it on the dyno this week. The flywheel was also lightened an additional 6 oz so this motor should rev like crazy. Let me know what you all think.

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0182.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0181.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/DSCN0186.jpg

xrider

01-15-2011, 09:06 AM

He ended up putting a HD timing chain in, but it wouldnt clear the additional 3 mm, so he had to put a half link in.

aproudcanadian

01-15-2011, 11:35 AM

cant wait to see the the carb installed, hope everything goes as planed

xrider

01-15-2011, 01:52 PM

After eyeing things up today, it is clear that it is going to take some fabrication to fit the carb. The right side frame rail will be re-routed to mount to the downtube 1 - 2 inches further back to allow proper clearance. This seems to be the best way as there is simply no way to notch the frame enough to fit the carb. I'll post plenty of pictures of it through the process.

Xpress

01-15-2011, 03:16 PM

Looks like it's almost ready to rip!! :postwhore

84 r

01-15-2011, 04:25 PM

lookin bad ass dude!

390x

01-17-2011, 06:40 PM

xrider, have you used that front tire before? how does it handle? does it wear well? just wondering, there are not that many choices left for 11" rim in front.

cool build, makes me want to redo my 84

xrider

01-17-2011, 06:47 PM

Yes I have used it before and it is a great front tire. It handles and wears well. Below is the web address where I bought it. It is a 22-7.00-11 DURO POWER TRAIL DI2012.

http://www.smalltires.com/products/duro-power-trail-di2012-31-201211-227b.cfm?&CategoryId=7d922816-3d5d-47e8-a687-f917c90f64bb&Size=11&Brand=DURO&TotalSize=22-7.00-11

Thanks for the good comments, xrider

xrider

01-21-2011, 07:15 AM

It took alot of time but it fits! I had to move the right side frame rail where it attaches to the downtube out about an inch outward and further down the downtube. I have an angled pod filter coming for it today, and hope to get it up on the dyno for tuning. This motor runs awesome with this carb on it. Ran it twice today and it was smooth through the powerband with no bogging what so ever. Dyno results will be up soon!

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/Carb1.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/Carb2.jpg

aproudcanadian

01-21-2011, 11:00 AM

well looks like im getting a fcr in the near future:)

2hundredx

01-21-2011, 12:53 PM

damn thats lookin good man. let us know how she runs!

Dirtcrasher

01-21-2011, 12:54 PM

He ended up putting a HD timing chain in, but it wouldnt clear the additional 3 mm, so he had to put a half link in.

I hope it's a dam arse good half link. I keep breaking the ones on my drive chain, I HATE em......

Looks great! Looks like the carb fit just fine :D

lazybiker79

01-21-2011, 01:59 PM

The 200x looks great.. I would love to hear it running
Take a video and post it on YouTube =)

lazybiker79

01-21-2011, 02:01 PM

Fcr flat slide carbs have a great sound. I have a set on my zx7r.

Louis Mielke

01-21-2011, 02:04 PM

Does the tank still fit on now that you changed the frame?

xrider

01-21-2011, 03:33 PM

This bike has an IMS short track tank on it and it clears fine. I am not sure if a stock tank would clear tho.

u.p ted

01-21-2011, 04:38 PM

that look kick ass, u r going to beat me this year racing lol

willreed03

01-21-2011, 05:29 PM

Wow...Looks awesome man! I have a 200X that is...well 'built' by my definition but yours is BUILT!! Makes me a little quivery just thinking about riding yours. :) I have a few buddies with 200X's and I'm the king out of the 4 or 5 of us that ride but I don't think you will be allowed to play with us...

shortline10

01-21-2011, 05:39 PM

Is the kicker set up doing ok with that stroker ? I know you got the upgraded spring off me but was wondering how its doing as far as kick back exc .

xrider

01-21-2011, 09:05 PM

Thanks for all the good comments guys. Ted, that is the plan LOL, you'd better bring your A game this year. The kicker setup is working awesome Mike. No slipping at all and I haven't had much kick back so far. We'll see once I go to start it a few more times tomorrow. Thanks again, xrider

xrider

01-29-2011, 06:02 PM

ironchop

01-29-2011, 07:54 PM

great thread.....great info

Thanks Xrider

Dirtcrasher

01-29-2011, 09:00 PM

The bike is all together now and tuning is just about complete. I got a voicemail from my friend who is tuning the engine and the best run so far hit 27 HP. This thing should fly :naughty:. He said it pulls hard through the entire powerband. I'm picking it up this coming Friday and will give a ride report and post the dyno charts and pictures! Thanks, xrider

I wish I had someone to tune in my motor, change jetting etc etc. I'd be GLAD to pay!! :D

Very tough to tune these with the newer carbs........ But, so much to gain.........

aproudcanadian

02-05-2011, 02:19 PM

any updates? i cant wait to see more

xrider

02-06-2011, 10:32 AM

The 200x is Done! I am picking it up this coming Friday. Below is the Final Dyno Chart. We had it tuned into 27 Hp at first but we downtuned it slightly for better idle quality. Final numbers are 25.56 HP at 9000 RPM and 16.33 lb-ft of Torque at 7400 RPM! This thing screams up top and pulls hard from down low. I'll get some pictures of the whole bike up this week!

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/IMG_29261.jpg

shortline10

02-06-2011, 10:36 AM

Very impressive #s . Are those rear wheel HP numbers ?

xrider

02-06-2011, 10:44 AM

Yep! Those are rear wheel HP numbers. :naughty:

Bryan Raffa

02-06-2011, 10:54 AM

BOING!!!!!!!!!!!! ... likeing it!

bcredneck

02-06-2011, 03:59 PM

you should get a tac now so you can get perfect shifts on the track

xrider

02-13-2011, 09:34 AM

Picked the bike up Friday and finished it up. Ignore the missing tank shroud and the old swingarm. The tank shroud is at the painters and is being used to match the paint color on the fiberglass lowpro fenders, and the swingarm will be replaced late March early April with one being made by Billy. I ended up relocating the upper tank mounts about an inch higher to eliminate the tank/seat gap. There is tons of snow and ice here, but I was able to ride up and down the road a bit with it. This thing screams! The throttle response is amazing with the FCR carb and there is no weaks spots in the powerband at all. Great bottom end and midrange and a killer top end. It sounds wicked, almost like a big bike when it's revving. Right now the gearing is 14t up front and a 38t on the rear. I will definitely have to drop a couple teeth more in the rear as this thing flys through gears. First real test will be February 26 at the Summit Indoors race!

http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120351.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120339.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120348.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120346.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120344.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120343.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120340.jpg
http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/zwaylo/P2120334.jpg

jays375

02-13-2011, 11:09 AM

What is the swingarm going to be?Is it hard to ride with a stock length swinger?By the sounds of it with that light little trike it must be a handfull.

shortbus

02-13-2011, 12:00 PM

That thing must rip!!!

xrider

02-13-2011, 12:55 PM

The swingarm is going to be a Westcoast styled +1 length that will be heavily gusseted with Dico style linkage. The swingarm that is on it is actually a +2 extended stock 1983 200x swingarm. I'm sure with a stock length swingarm it would definitely be a handful.

u.p ted

02-13-2011, 06:15 PM

thats thing is so cool and looks fast, can wait to c it at trikefest

sdb69z28

02-19-2011, 10:27 AM

Sweet 200X... I just got done with a powroll stroker but without such a big bore with a bigger titanium intake valve and a ton of headwork. Checkout the step exhaust on my profile, I built it to there specs except the can. Powroll said supertrapp but the head guy and tuner said straightline freeflow so im trying different stuff. Its a very straightline run back to the can with three steps bigger, theres no atv dyno around so I cant get any numbers. Im going to be building an aluminum swingarm for it when I get some time, setup my brembo rear brake system. I built it because ive always been a 200X nut and I had a curtis sparks 200X years ago that I absolutely loved... Nice bike man!!!

xrider

02-19-2011, 12:12 PM

Thanks for the good comments guys. Sdb69z28, I checked out your exhaust on your profile and it looks excellent. I dyno'd this bike with a Dycorp, DG, Bassani, and Supertrapp exhaust. The Supertrapp and Bassani were the best, but the supertrapp had a better overall torque curve so I went with that. If you're running an exhaust like that on your 200x, I would suggest upgrading from the stock carb setup. A 28mm Mikuni or Keihin should really help your numbers, depending on how much head work you have done. I would be curious to hear it though, it looks like it would sound awesome. Thanks, xrider

sdb69z28

02-19-2011, 04:06 PM

Hey Xrider... Powroll told me to keep the stock carb but with the headwork im curious what it would do with a 28mm like you have. That carb setup your running looks really nice. The can I used is off a CRF450 and I cut 4" off off it, it sounds nice. I started 1 1/4" out of the head with what we call a torque block they around the horn then out to 1 1/2" then to 1 5/8" then purged it and welded so theres nothing but smooth weld on the inside. I havent got it tuned just right yet, its been a long hard winter here with way too much snow to ride plus I need to invest in one of the air/fuel meters so I can tune on the fly. The intake valve was custom made 1mm bigger than stock with a much better shape. I would be interested in hooking you up with a sweet swinger for that baby, she really deserves it... I was thinking about making one for mine but getting rid of the chain adjuster and useing a concentric one thats much stronger. Thanks Sdb69z28

xrider

02-19-2011, 04:43 PM

My carburetor is a 28mm that has been bored out to a 30mm by CT Racing actually. I would say a 28mm on your bike would perform pretty well. I used to have an original Westcoast swingarm on it, but it was twisted and will be going on another project of mine when it is repaired. Thanks for the offer on the swingarm, but i already have one being made by Billy from the forum here. It will be a +1 Westcoast style swingarm that will be heavily gusseted and have adjustable Dico style linkage. It's going to be wicked and I'll be sure to add more pics once it is complete. Thanks xrider

sdb69z28

02-19-2011, 11:21 PM

Thanks for the info... Cant wait to see it finished

younganreckless

03-06-2011, 04:29 PM

Have u thought of just buying a 250r or 350x instead of dumping all this money into a 200?

xrider

03-06-2011, 04:57 PM

I have 3 1986 250r's and 1 1986 350x and personally I enjoy riding the 200x the most. The 200x is a very capable race machine and in my opinion, the bike of choice for a tight track. The 200x has already has a big weight advantage over a 350x and a 250r and my bike is 25 lbs lighter than a stock 200x. The fact that it also is making 26 HP at the rear wheels yields an incredible power to weight ratio. For me it is also about spending the time collecting the rare parts and the challenge of building a machine at a level that I know few others have. Think about it, built 250r's are a dime a dozen, there are far fewer built 200x's out there. A lot of people can relate to that. Just my two cents.

P.S. I took first place last weekend at the Summit Indoors race in Tallmadge, Ohio in the 3 Wheeler B class. I raced under the number 331. For those interested, the videos should be up on youtube any day and I will post a link to the race.

Thanks, xrider

big red hemi

07-29-2011, 03:40 PM

how is the x holding up with all that power behind it?
did you ever post a link to youtube?

i would love to see and hear this thing in action.

xrider

07-29-2011, 05:10 PM

I'll see if I can dig up the link from the race. There is also videos from the Trikefest 2011 drags as well that are posted in the Trikefest 2011 Picture thread. The motor is holding up awesome. The last time I ran it was at Trikefest 2011 and it took 1st place in the motocross and 1st place in the drags in the 200x classes.

Thanks,
xrider

big red hemi

07-29-2011, 05:26 PM

cool
ive been looking at the pics, saw you bike in the drags. still cant find the link to the vid ill keep looking

torque

08-27-2011, 05:14 PM

att shortline

i have been trying to identify my adjustable cam sprocket. from what i can tell the powroll sprocket has 8 holes. the mega cycle has 14. those are the only two companies that i am know off that make these adjustable sprockets. i just came across this post, and noticed that the hole pattern seems identical to the one i have. could you please enlighten me on the origin, and do you have any specs advance/retard.
thanks

Picture of an original aftermarket degreeable timing sprocket for a 200x .

I found the best method for using one of these was just trial and error . Advancing or retarding for the type of power I was looking for . A degree wheel is supposed to make it perfect to cam specs but not always making power were we wanted it . Lots of testing but def worth while .

shortline10

08-27-2011, 05:23 PM

I believe the one I had was a BAPP sprocket . Specs on the adv and retard would come for the cam company that made the cam .
att shortline

i have been trying to identify my adjustable cam sprocket. from what i can tell the powroll sprocket has 8 holes. the mega cycle has 14. those are the only two companies that i am know off that make these adjustable sprockets. i just came across this post, and noticed that the hole pattern seems identical to the one i have. could you please enlighten me on the origin, and do you have any specs advance/retard.
thanks