1985 200x need help

[3boyswinter]

OK, so I picked up an 85 last week. and after initial cleaning, engine fired after 1st kick.

Idles perfect, I rode it, all gears are smooth, clutch works fine.

However, it does make a clicking noise in the engine. I thought it was valve lash, so I adjusted back to spec. Now it started to make the noise a little louder. So I think im not set right. But my question is,
I took off right side cover, cleaned out oil cover. And in doing so, removed kick starter and case.

When I put the cover back on, the kickstarter will not retract? I did not have factory gaskets to put back on. So I made my own. Could this be the cause?

Is there something I missed when putting back the gears on the kickstarter.

And if anyone knows about the ticking that would help also.


Tom

[Xpress]

Sounds like a return spring came undone to me.

[shortline10]

.Loosen the bolts at the small kicker cover and see if it frees up . if it does your home made gasket is to thin . That area def requires a gasket so it doesnt bind up .



OK, so I picked up an 85 last week. and after initial cleaning, engine fired after 1st kick.

Idles perfect, I rode it, all gears are smooth, clutch works fine.

However, it does make a clicking noise in the engine. I thought it was valve lash, so I adjusted back to spec. Now it started to make the noise a little louder. So I think im not set right. But my question is,
I took off right side cover, cleaned out oil cover. And in doing so, removed kick starter and case.

When I put the cover back on, the kickstarter will not retract? I did not have factory gaskets to put back on. So I made my own. Could this be the cause?

Is there something I missed when putting back the gears on the kickstarter.

And if anyone knows about the ticking that would help also.


Tom

[nickitzi]

As for the clicking sound try to adjust the cam chain. On the kicker problem look for edges of gasket material over laying on case halves. Also check for any thing put in backwards.

[kasey200x]

Mine did the same thing with the ticking, turned out the spring's on the cdi had came off. Its the spring that hold the two plates together that hold the rotor on the shaft. It's behind the timing adjusting plate. My ticking was obnoxiously loud,and i was extremely worried the topend was not oiling. Turned out, it was just those two small springs.

[RodKnockRacing]

The ticking could be cam chain slop it may need adjusting

[3boyswinter]

I adjusted the cam chain after adjusting the valve lash with no improvement. My neighbor which is a mechanic was saying the same thing about thinking the top end was not getting oiled, but under the valve covers was definate oil. Let me try the springs on the cdi. And I guess I will search for the right oem gasket. When the cover is off, the kickstarter will return. All the timing marks were aligned. What about the washers, They do go on the outside of each gear?

[kasey200x]

When you adjusted the timing chain tension did you have it running?

[shortline10]

I adjusted the cam chain after adjusting the valve lash with no improvement. My neighbor which is a mechanic was saying the same thing about thinking the top end was not getting oiled, but under the valve covers was definate oil. Let me try the springs on the cdi. And I guess I will search for the right oem gasket. When the cover is off, the kickstarter will return. All the timing marks were aligned. What about the washers, They do go on the outside of each gear?

The washers only go on the kicker shaft that the kicker bolts to , one on each side and no washers on the other one

[3boyswinter]

yes, after I warmed it up at idle. I let the bolt out. I was nervous on how much to let out though. Didn't want to take completely out

[3boyswinter]

That could be my problem. I remember putting 1 on each gear.
Had the service manual and couldn't see the illustration that well. So I put one on the left and right gear as Looking on the side of the starter cover.


Will have to tear down tomorrow. Keep you posted, thks

[3boyswinter]

Help, where do I go to check this?

[kasey200x]

Go to check what? And try the tensioner bolt again. Unscrew the bolt(the large one) until it feels like it is going to come out. Then tighten it back up.

[3boyswinter]

Mine did the same thing with the ticking, turned out the spring's on the cdi had came off. Its the spring that hold the two plates together that hold the rotor on the shaft. It's behind the timing adjusting plate. My ticking was obnoxiously loud,and i was extremely worried the topend was not oiling. Turned out, it was just those two small springs.

Where again would I look for this?

[kasey200x]

Oh, remove the cdi cover and take out the two phillip head screws holding the plate on. There are two locking mechanisims that should move open when you turn the rotor to the left, and tighten back up when you let go. If the two small spring's are missing, it will not retract the two peices by it self and they have free play in them. That is what cause the ticking on mine, the two peices opening and closing rapidly.
Let me know if you need a pic.

[3boyswinter]

Oh, remove the cdi cover and take out the two phillip head screws holding the plate on. There are two locking mechanisims that should move open when you turn the rotor to the left, and tighten back up when you let go. If the two small spring's are missing, it will not retract the two peices by it self and they have free play in them. That is what cause the ticking on mine, the two peices opening and closing rapidly.
Let me know if you need a pic.
Yes, please send, about ready to go back out in garage, im curious now.
thks

[kasey200x]

lol okay, let me find some.

[kasey200x]

Okay, after you remove the main cover(has cdi imprinted on it) you will see the base, with this inside of it. Look behind the rotor(held on by a 10mm bolt) and there is the peice's i am talking about. There should be two springs on it.

[3boyswinter]

Okay, after you remove the main cover(has cdi imprinted on it) you will see the base, with this inside of it. Look behind the rotor(held on by a 10mm bolt) and there is the peice's i am talking about. There should be two springs on it.

ok, got it open. 2 springs are on it. it bounces back after moving to left? now what should i look for

[kasey200x]

Yes, that is correct. If you have it off still i recomend removing the whole cdi and seeing if the chain is loose. All you have to do is remove that 10mm bolts and the 2 8mm holding the base down. It should slide right off.

[kasey200x]

Did you get this figured out?

[3boyswinter]

Did you get this figured out?

Not really. was up to about 2am last night. Ended up busting one of the bolts off the cdi cover, that was real fun. that thing was really on there.
Saw the cam chain. Wasn't really sure if loose or not, with not knowing what to look for. Worked on other stuff. Redid front and rear brakes, both working good now.
Got the kickstarter to return. Actually went out an rode it this morning. Trike runs awesome, full power, all gears, idles, etc. Just that darn ticking.

Im puzzled on the valve lash. Need 2nd hands, to make sure im really at tdc. Somebody else tells me could be exhaust tick? I have an exhaust gasket on order.
Any other suggestions?

I saw something about testing to make sure your chain tensioner is actually working. But didn't really find the exact how-to on that?

[kasey200x]

When your checking to see if the chain is tight, you should not be able to move it easily. Where it goes to the lower end, not where it is on the sprocket, push it outwards and see if it has tension. What do you mean busted a bolt off the cover? The phillip screws?

To be at tdc make sure you are using the fly wheel as a refrence. Do not try to turn the engine over with the kickstarter, or putting it in gear rolling it. Take the two caps off, and put a 12 or 14mm socket on it and turn it. Get a flash light and shine in the top hole, and put it on the T for setting valve clearence. The F is for ignition timing(Setting the cdi) It can be hard to spot, it's on the upper edge of the fly wheel.
When you have it there, both rockers should move freely. Then just put them at .003 of an inch.

With checking to see if the tensioner is working, i dont really think there is many things that can fail on it. If the guide's are worn, then its time for a new chain and guide. It is a pretty simple thing to change. I got a couple secrets that would make it alot easier for you, if you decide to chain and tensioner(not the guide, head removal is manditory for that)

[kasey200x]

If your worried about checking the valves while at tdc, you can watch the valve's while you are turning it over, wait for one to open, then close, then turn a little past closed and set it there. It does not necceserly need to be at tdc to set them. Just make sure the one you are setting is not touching the rocker and lobes.
Not really sure the best way to explain what i'm trying to say. But do you know what i mean?

[3boyswinter]

If your worried about checking the valves while at tdc, you can watch the valve's while you are turning it over, wait for one to open, then close, then turn a little past closed and set it there. It does not necceserly need to be at tdc to set them. Just make sure the one you are setting is not touching the rocker and lobes.
Not really sure the best way to explain what i'm trying to say. But do you know what i mean?

Wow, just figured out I was 180 off. Found true tdc on compression stroke and valves were way off. We adjusted and noise pretty much gone. I should say much better than before

But now took for pretty good spin and probably need to go invest in clutch rebuild kit. Felt slipping at high speeds. Off to another purchase

[kasey200x]

Well glad to hear you got it fixed!
also, make sure your not running synthetic. Stick to 10w 30 or 10w 40
If you can get "motorcycle" oil, make for manual motor cycles. If you run synthetics, the clutch will slip. Even using the wrong weight will cause it to slip.

[3boyswinter]

Hold the "buy it now" button.I am running 10w40 motorcyle oil. But my side kick helping me on Sat, adjusted my clutch lever to where there is no free play. I read my service manual stating needs 3/8-3/4" free play. That is what is prob making it slip at high speed. I will try that first before buying a rebuild kit...

[ATCrider42]

Actually, you can use synthetic ATV oil. I am refering to AMS 0w-40 which is sutable for wet clutches. That's what I use and it works fine. I have no clutch slippage, no smoke, and no leaks. I'm not recommending using this oil. I am just saying it's what I use and it works, and it's synthetic. But it is made for wet clutches and it is a sutable substitute for 10w-40.