'86 250R Engine Hanger Bolt Hole Repair Question

[Xhumeka]

Hi guys,

I'm working on getting a project 250r I picked up ridable, and before I attack this next problem I thought I'd better ask in case I'm missing something obvious...

Here is a picture of my left-side engine hanger:

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/1986_Honda_250R_ATC/86_250r_engine_hanger.jpg

The top bolt has sheared off - so I was thinking of simply drilling out the hole, and using a hardware store bolt with locknut.... am I missing something, or is that the easiest solution?

I know most would say to probably helicoil, but if there's enough room for a locknut on the other side I think I'll just go that route for now!

[atctim]

you can do exactly what you are saying - be sure you have a very good drill bit to get that bolt drilled out. Otherwise you will break your drill bit in the bolt and then really be up crap creek!

[Xhumeka]

you can do exactly what you are saying - be sure you have a very good drill bit to get that bolt drilled out. Otherwise you will break your drill bit in the bolt and then really be up crap creek!

Thanks Tim!!

[110 atc]

I like to weld a nut or washer to the broken stud. Simply weld a nut to the bronken bolt and turn it out with a socket or vise grips. Works every time for me. Karl

[Xhumeka]

I like to weld a nut or washer to the broken stud. Simply weld a nut to the bronken bolt and turn it out with a socket or vise grips. Works every time for me. Karl

One of these days I'll buy one and learn how to weld! I've wanted to learn how for awhile now, I just need to get my ass in gear and do something about it!! ;)

[D-dub]

I would try an ez-out first

[Nightmare]

Use an ez-outs.
There is all kinds of broken faster tools out there! Head to the local sears and check um out. Soak that broken bolt in a penitrating lube atleast over nite. Then drill a small hole about 1/2 in in then a slightly larger hole in3/8in in and a slightly larger hole about 1/4in in. This creates a more of a surface for the ez outs to grab since they are taped. Do not break the ezouts! you'll b fed in the A if you do. They are harded and require a carbide drill bit to drill out.

[MudBug]

DO NOT use a "maybe-out" if that thing breaks off inside there, you only have worse problems. They are a B!t*H to drill through FYI

[Dammit!]

If it were me, I'd get a good quality left handed bit, heat up the frame and drill it using a low speed. You might get lucky and have it simply grab and back the thing right out. I always at least try to get the old bolt out before doing something drastic. I've gotten them out with easy outs but those things can and will break so you have to be careful. Heat is your friend.

[myles]

Xhumeka, you'll have to drill and tap it, you won't be able to fit a locknut on the other side, it would hit your head pipe.;)

[Xhumeka]

Xhumeka, you'll have to drill and tap it, you won't be able to fit a locknut on the other side, it would hit your head pipe.;)

Arg, you're right!!! That's exactly why I asked if I was "missing something obvious", and sure enough, I was!!!

I've NEVER had luck with ez-outs, and I've broken a tiny drill bit inside a bolt once and it's something I NEVER want to do again. That's why I was intending to use a larger sized bit with less chance of snapping on me to drill it out.

Oh well, helicoil time I guess!

[Xhumeka]

Xhumeka, you'll have to drill and tap it, you won't be able to fit a locknut on the other side, it would hit your head pipe.;)

What if I were to use a flat-head bolt (like the one pictured below) with the head of the bolt between the exhaust header and the frame?

http://www.bolt-manufacturer.com/picture/elevator-bolts/flat-head-elevator-bolt.jpg

[Ironbnder]

I second what Dammit said about left handed drill bits. Sometimes it will unscrew the bolt out for you. A small set is a must have in your box.

[Xhumeka]

you can do exactly what you are saying - be sure you have a very good drill bit to get that bolt drilled out. Otherwise you will break your drill bit in the bolt and then really be up crap creek!

Any suggestions on which type of drill bit to purchase? Last night I started to drill into the bolt, and after 20 mins of drilling with a fair amount of pressure applied I only have a small divet - I feel like the guy in Shawshank Redemption, this will take me YEARS!!!

[Mosh]

Cobalt bits will chew right through that. You can get them at any auto store.
Make sure you are perfectly center, and use medium speed and keep the drill bit cool with penetrant.
Do not use too much pressure on the drill bit. let it do the cutting for you.

[Xhumeka]

DO NOT use a "maybe-out" if that thing breaks off inside there, you only have worse problems. They are a B!t*H to drill through FYI

Thanks Mosh - I bought a nice set of cobalt bits and it did indeed start to chew through that bolt! I should have kept drilling, and just got rid of the damn thing, but no - i instead reached for the easy-out even after MudBug warned me. It was a decent quality one too - but without warning SNAP.

Now I _do_ have a worse mess to deal with :(

[Mosh]

Thanks Mosh - I bought a nice set of cobalt bits and it did indeed start to chew through that bolt! I should have kept drilling, and just got rid of the damn thing, but no - i instead reached for the easy-out even after MudBug warned me. It was a decent quality one too - but without warning SNAP.

Now I _do_ have a worse mess to deal with :(
That sucks.

There is a HUGE misconception with eZ outs and reverse extractors.
Many times a broken bolt is cross threaded or so gummed up with mud and rust and corrosion that even the EZ outs will not pull the bolt out. So anytime I see someone saying to use them, I always cringe. They only time they work well and simple is if the head of the bolt snapped,but the threads are not damaged and in sound shape and not gummed up to badly or cross threaded.
There are methods to use them in bad situations, but it would take me a hour to type out how we use them with severely damged bolts and threads. Usually requires a method of heating and bee's wax and proper cool down time.

But don't give up hope yet.

This does happen and the best thing I found to use is mini carbide burrs in a die grinder to grind that hard EZ out away, then you can continue drilling.

http://www.carbidebur.com/18shank/miniburs.htm
These require a mini air powered die grinder with a small collet for the shank.
The burrs themselves are expensive. The tapered type works well to dig that broken extractor out.

However they are expensive and they have to be CARBIDE or they will just wear away in seconds.

So you can either buy all that, or a machine shop can take over the task for you to the tune of $70 to $100, which will be less in cost overall if you have to buy the burrs, special collet and die grinder.

[Xhumeka]

Thanks again Mosh - that carbide bur idea helped a lot and I was able to FINALLY drill through!!!

I started by drilling a hole to the side of the snapped off extractor (to the left in the picture below), and gradually making the hole larger by stepping up in bit size. This slowly chewed away at the side of the stuck extractor, breaking it apart slowly. Then once the hole was large enough, I went at it with the dremel and carbide burs.

Eventually I got enough of it dremelled away that I was able to drill the rest of the way through the stuck bolt, PHEW!!!

Thanks again for everyone's help/suggestions. I find that titanium-coated bits actually worked better than cobalt, but the titanium-coated were more brittle.

Lots of sweat, patience and whiskey helped too ;)

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/2011/86_250r_engine_hanger_fixed.jpg