125m Help Please

[RDT]

Went to go for a ride but.. She starts,runs just fine but when i try to go into first its dies. I recently changed the oil. Does the clutch need adjusting? Im at a loss here. or is this a air issue,(not getting enough) hose plugged, new filter?

[EarlyBronocGuy]

"Dies" how? Does it lock up like the clutch is stuck, or just quit like you shut off the ignition? If it locks up, it's something with the clutch. If it just quits, I'll bet something's grounding the ignition, like a bad neutral switch or wiring.

[RDT]

Just like you shut off the engine as soon as you put it in first or try to put it in gear.I thought maybe the clutch,as soon as you pull up the lever to go into first it stops right now.It will start back up and idle just fine but die when you try to go to first gear. I,m lost.

[EarlyBronocGuy]

Jack up the rear so the back tires are just off the ground, start it, then put it in gear. If the tires immediately start turning, even with the engine just a slow idle, the clutch is stuck. You should have to increase rpm before the clutch starts to engage.

The neutral safety switch kills the ignition and starter circuit when in any gear and the engine is not already running. If the CDI/voltage regulator doesn't see a certain voltage output by the alternator when the engine is running and the transmission in placed in gear, it'll kill the ignition because it thinks the engine is already off and since it's in gear, won't allow it to restart until it's in neutral. You could bypass the neutral switch by grounding it contstantly, if the engine will then start and run in any gear, you've got a bad switch. If not, the alternator may not be putting out enough voltage, or you've got a bad CDI or regulator.

Test the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then with the engine running. You should have more voltage at idle if the alternator is putting out, between 12.5 -13 volts.

[tri again]

Jack up the rear so the back tires are just off the ground, start it, then put it in gear. If the tires immediately start turning, even with the engine just a slow idle, the clutch is stuck. You should have to increase rpm before the clutch starts to engage.

The neutral safety switch kills the ignition and starter circuit when in any gear and the engine is not already running. If the CDI/voltage regulator doesn't see a certain voltage output by the alternator when the engine is running and the transmission in placed in gear, it'll kill the ignition because it thinks the engine is already off and since it's in gear, won't allow it to restart until it's in neutral. You could bypass the neutral switch by grounding it contstantly, if the engine will then start and run in any gear, you've got a bad switch. If not, the alternator may not be putting out enough voltage, or you've got a bad CDI or regulator.

Test the voltage at the battery with the engine off, and then with the engine running. You should have more voltage at idle if the alternator is putting out, between 12.5 -13 volts.

sheese ebg! wonder why I never thought of that. and I thought I studied those diagrams to the point of seizure.

Good call

I got a neutral sw locally new for 12$ and it fixed mine confirmed by grounding the neutral SAFETY switch.

Just don't forget that it WILL start in gear and could run over whatever's in it's way.
Please don't ask how I know that.

[RDT]

Well,I jacked it up and the wheels started spinning,I tried adjusting and no luck,Maybe its time for a new clutch.You said the clutch could be stuck.Only way to free it would be take the cover off and go in,Right? Then i might as well think about a new one.I wish it was the neutral switch. Im glad you helped I never thought of the clutch.. Wheres a good place to get one? Thanks again

[atctim]

It sure sounds like a carb issue to me. Have you had the carb off of it?

[tri again]

is this trike new to you?

I have a 110 that the clutch will stick when it gets hot, just like it's a hand clutch so it's impossible to start when it gets like that.

pull the rope and it walks forward, prob would start if I tried that on a hill.

Anyway, if its a new trike, the p.o. may have tried to adjust the clutch and got it too tight.

Now if you got it rolling downhill and THEN put it into first I wonder if it would keep going.

Other than dangerous and not recommended, it would help with your diagnosis of where to look next.

[RDT]

I got this one pretty cheap from a fellow,It worked great a few times and then it just started,out of the blue.It starts,runs fine but as soon as you try to go into gear the motor stops,right now,if its jacked up(the wheels spin in neutral) on blocks you can shift right into first but on the ground,it stops right now.I have adjusted all different ways and its still the same.That tells me a clutch problem? I have no hills to try the roll method or I would.But when I push by hand and have the wife put it in gear the motor stops right now.Starts back up and runs just fine. just cant shift into first. I have another 125m and a 110.They work good.

[Howdy]

RDT, if your close to Celina, Ohio I could look at this for you and figure it out / fix it.
Howdy

[RDT]

Howdy your about a good 2 hrs away. If I was closer I would. Im going to crack it open tomarrow and look at the clutch.

[tri again]

I got this one pretty cheap from a fellow,It worked great a few times and then it just started,out of the blue.It starts,runs fine but as soon as you try to go into gear the motor stops,right now,if its jacked up(the wheels spin in neutral) n blocks you can shift right into first but on the ground,it stops right now.I have adjusted all different ways and its still the same.That tells me a clutch problem? I have no hills to try the roll method or I would.But when I push by hand and have the wife put it in gear the motor stops right now.Starts back up and runs just fine. just cant shift into first. I have another 125m and a 110.They work good.

Ok, lemmie see. I'm starting to take this personally.

It's like you hit the kill switch. when you put it in gear. as opposed to clutch load stopping the engine like its say a manual clutch engine, running at idle, front wheel up against a wall and you put it in gear without the clutch, it tries to move forward and dies????

ok so far.

Now the neutral safety switch on the 84 es 85 sx and es's prohibits
the starter from running at all, but in some way, WILL allow it to start and run if you kick it manually, so the neutral safety sw inhibits juice to the coil. (too)

As I recall after hours of frustration, I took the battery OUT and as a final goodby, I kicked the thing and it started!

and the neutral light glowed, which it would NOT do with the battery in and using the starter.

I disconnected the NSW wire from the switch, and just touched it to ground with the battery in, key on, the neutral light glowed and it started.

After it started, I just let that ground wire hang loose in thin air and was able to ride.

I'd just touch it to the case to ground it whenever I wanted to start it and then let it hang free.

I wonder if that NSW is telling the engine that it IS in gear when you put it in gear
and kills it.
if you can follow that pretzel logic.

I can't tell you how manycopies of the wire diagram and how many days I walked away from that thing until I came up with that particular diagnostic sequence completely by accident.

new neutral sw for 12$ and never had another prob.

I really hope that's what's going on with yours.

There is also a reverse limiter that I suspected that can do silly stuff but never made it that far.

Bad or marginal grounds can do that too.

If you search for 84 es 'intermittent spark' on here you'll see tons of info. with similar psychotic symptoms that simply make no sense.

Some folks went so far as to replace the &^%#$@ wire harness only to admit that it runs most likely beCAUSE they had no choice but to change and clean and check EVERY connection and the new wire harness prob had nothing to do with the orig problem.

whew!

you'll get it.

we always do somehow.

[RDT]

here,s a update.I opened up the clutch side, checked the clutch,replaced the stopper pawl(the one in there was broke) put everything back together and it did the same thing.Start and stop,when going into first,then after reading drjoe and earlybronco guys posts I went into the wiring. The pre owner had done some work there by the amount of tape he used but I kept going and with a diragram,I found a gound wire not hooked up and now it starts,runs doesn,t stop when you go in gear... God am I happy.. The only thing now is shes make a clicking sound,and rattles when your in second but when you go into third,it stops Maybe a shift fork? But one step at a time and I am glad there are guys out there that give you Good ideas and suggestions..Hats off to all of you. Thanks