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View Full Version : Tri-z head stud removal tricks?



swampthang
10-19-2010, 06:46 PM
I have my cylinder off and getting closer to getting it bored. I need to know if my studs are left hand threaded into the cylinder. I have looked at my manual but it dosent tell if they are. The studs are a little rusty so ive been spraying them with pb blaster and tryed one stud with the vice grips but it didnt seem to willing to budge and i didnt wont to snap anything off so i figured its time to ask you guys for some tips on how you get yours out.

Mosh
10-19-2010, 06:56 PM
The studs are regular thread. In other words, right to tight, left to loosen.
Vice grips arent gonna do it.

You have 2 options in order of most succesful..

Go to your local Harbor Freight, TSC, Napa, Auto Zone..ETC and purchase a set of Metric stud removers..About 30-50 bucks.
They grip the studs without ruining the threads,and attach to your ratchet. Then you just slip them over the stud, and lay the jug on a solid surface, have a helper hold the jug, and wrench them out.

Option 2 may not work depending on how old the studs are and the amount of force they take...

Grab a handful of metric nuts. 3-4 and thread them on one stud at a time 2-3 stacked..Tighten them all together, then use a wrench on the bottom nut to back the stud out. The other nuts will act as a lock for the bottom nut. That proabably wont work in this case, cuz cylinder studs usually are a booger to remove..The stud remover/installer kit is the best option.

dcreel
10-19-2010, 06:56 PM
You should be able to tell by looking at the spin of the stud whether it is right or left hand thread. The best way to remove them is to use 2 nuts tightened against each other to remove the stud.

swampthang
10-19-2010, 06:59 PM
My studs have a space between thats not threaded will this matter?

cbx1170
10-19-2010, 07:16 PM
Also carefully warm/heat the cylinder up to help release the studs. We used to idle bikes for 20-30 mins before fixing broken exhaust studs. Gloves.

Bryan Raffa
10-19-2010, 07:39 PM
My studs have a space between thats not threaded will this matter?

when you put them back in you want to thred them in to the last part of the thred. up to that space... the nut trick is the best and use heat on the outside of the cylinder..

laidout2times
10-21-2010, 05:04 AM
Mannnn-o im retarted!!!

I wish I knew a stud remover existed... I always jammed 2-3 nuts to back out. Not all the studs would always survive.

Good to know.

WilliamJ
10-21-2010, 03:13 PM
You warm the cylinder with a propane blowtorch and keep the torch moving constantly. To tell when it is hot enough keep spitting just a little on the surface andwhen the spit balls up or bounces, stop heating. That's about 180 degrees C. Of course, if you want you can use a thermometer but my wife objects when I borrow the food one from the kitchen! Aluminium expands about 4 times more per degree rise than steel so it really does help. I prefer using the locked nuts as all the the stud removers I have seen tend to put marks on the studs.

Head studs (and in fact all studs) have to have the same hand thread on the bottom end as the top, or else they will back out as you tighten them!

Bill