185s Carb Questions Again.

[79fordblake]

Well I have been side tracked from the 3 wheeler for awhile now I am trying to get back to it.
81 185s.

Let me go ahead and tell you what I have done to carb.

I have taken it all apart and diped it in carb cleaner twice to make sure it is clean. I put a kit in it and replaced everything but the float and slow jet(slow jet doesn't look that great, Can I still get one of those?) The needle is set in the middle(3rd notch from top) jet size thats in it is 100. Pilot jet is 2 turns out.

From a dead stop if I nail it wide open it coughs and dies. If I turn the choke on one click and nail it it will pop a wheelie and haul @ss.
If I just joy ride around on it of course it gets to much gas and blacks smokes with choke on one notch so I turn choke off while I am doin that.

It has a clean uni air filter. One thing that might cause it I don't know for sure. Intake boot has cracks in it but I don't think they are all the way through. I guess I need to buy a new one anyway so I can rule it out.
Thanks for any help.

[TheRealFatShady]

Check for an intake leak. The oring/seal between the intake boot and engine, replace it or even temp. with RTV gasket maker only to test, get a real seal to use it.

[79fordblake]

Thanks, ill check that. Also wanted to go ahead and add I am running the correct NGK D8EA spark plug at the correct gap.

[tri again]

i used to clean slow jets with a .004 acupuncture needle until I discovered a .010 'a' guitar string will actually fit. since mine we all so corroded to varying degrees of impossibility.

sure doesn't take much to plug them up

just because your jets are clean or new doesnt mean the internal passages are clear.

Someone on here dipped the carbs in screaming hot water and blew thru the passages with a short piece of fuel line to see bubbles.

I forget but DO know that the 85 and newer carbs have an emulsion tube hiding under one of the screw in jets but I forget the pre85 stuff.

also lotsa of folks have good luck with brand new 30 dollar carbs

[tri again]

slow jets can take a .010 guitar string

I used to use .0040
acupuncture needles until I realized they were so corroded almost nothing would get thru.

Having been thru at Least 10 carbs in the last few months, and will be perfectly happy to Never do another one....
I steam clean the gas tanks inside, maybe muriatic acid,

rinse with alcohol and dry completely with a hair dryer or on the bbq

clean the fuel shut off screen and a one foot loop of see thru fuel line
with a paper element filter so crud lays low in the line.

also makes it easier to take the tank off without disconnecting the fuelline

when you get it figured out for sure, you can go back to stock.

I too, have seen that 'o' ring agaoinst the head twisted, eolled and broken.

carefully lay in some silicon and let it dry completely

also some auto parts stores have o ring kits to make yer own.

oh, abd just because the jets are new or clean doesnt mean the internal passages are clear.

juts mouth blow with a piece of fuel line and make sure it's going somewhere

[79fordblake]

I have cleaned all passages. It sat in a gallon of carb cleaner for two days. I then blowed out every passage possible with air. It cranks easy and idles good.

I had the slow jet out and cleaned it, but it looks like somebody tried to clean it before me its all beat up.

Tried one of those cheap carbs, ran like dog Sh*t and wore my arm out tryin to start it and I cleaned it and adjusted it to specs, ended up gettin my money back.

Im runnin an inline fuel filter and gas tank is clean.

I have a big kit of o-rings for between boot and head, may buy a new boot. I will see about ordering a new slow jet if you think that has anything to do with the problem?

Im good at rebuilding and cleaning 4 barrel carbs on trucks, but this carb is throwin all kinds of curve balls at me. Thanks.

[3wheelrider]

You said you got a carb kit but your pilot jet is scarred inside? Or did it not come with a new one? -Go with changing that pilot jet first. Its not going to work right if its scarred up in the opening. It should be good with either a new 35 or 38 usually if its stock/unmodified. Take the pilot jet out and take it with you when you go buy the new one so they know exactly what to give you. -Or ebay. You should be fine on the needle and main jet.

[79fordblake]

The pilot jet is new. The slow jet wasnt replaced b/c the kit didn't come with it and it doesnt look in good shape at all.

[rdlsz24]

I battled with my 200x carb for many hours and never got it quite working. I think the inside of the carbs get worn out after all these years.

For a few bucks more than a rebuild kit you can buy a whole new carb http://www.3wheelerworld.com/content.php?274-REVIEW-New-eBay-Keihin-200x-carb

Rob

[3wheelrider]

The pilot jet is new. The slow jet wasnt replaced b/c the kit didn't come with it and it doesnt look in good shape at all.

Pilot jet and slow jet is the same thing/one. Should see a 35 or 38 stamped on it real small. Get a new one and readjust the carb. If that fails then youre gonna need a new carb.

[79fordblake]

Thats not what my manual shows. The pilot jet is on the outside of the carb and is adjusted by turning it in and out. The slow jet is inside the carb and not adjustable. Maybe they both serve the same purpose though, correct me if I am wrong?

I replaced the o-ring between the head and boot. I sprayed carb cleaner all around this area and where the boot meets the carb and no change in rpm so all that is sealed up good.
I blew out all the passages again today and checked float level again.

What I don't get is that the plug is black(dry and sooty) and it blacks smokes a little bit with the choke off. But yet when I am at a dead stop and I full throttle it it will spit and sputter if I don't put the choke on one click then it will take off.
It has new rings(well a couple years old now) in it and I don't have to add any oil in between changes.

So my best bet is to try a new slow jet and if that don't fix it try another carb? I don't want to ruin my rings prematurely from to much fuel.

[3wheelrider]

The screw on the bottom (outside) is the air/fuel mixture screw for fine tuning of the pilot/slow jet (inside). You had said the pilot/slow jet "didnt look great and looked beat up."- What were you refering to then? The screw on the bottom? Those are easily damaged. Might need another kit if you dont have that one replaced. What # pilot/slow jet does it have also?

[79fordblake]

Oh ok. Well the one on the outside is fine because I replaced it. The one inside that presses in is the one that looks beat up. It says #38 on it.

[3wheelrider]

Oh-you have a press in type. (pilot/slow jet). I have the same on my 83' 185s. Usually they screw in and are easily replaced. I dont think those are available new. Anyone know if they are? And if they are -where? I'd like to know too.

[79fordblake]

If so I guess im gonna try one of those forty buck carbs again.

[79fordblake]

I wanted to give an update on my 185s carb problems. I have checked to make sure all passages are still clean. I just installed a new DG exhaust. Carb has 100 main jet and the needle clip is set 4 notches from top(had to drop it down to richen it up some).
From a dead stop I can nail it and it runs fine. Starts pretty good. Off idle throttle sucks. Barely above idle throttle it wants to hesitate so it runs kinda poorly when you just want to slowly ride around. Also It can be setting in neutral idling fine and then all a suden it will idle up really high sometimes it returns to normal idle and sometimes it doesn't. What is wrong with it? I can't figure it out still.