Mystery spark problem

[mullet]

I recently got my hands on a real nice 1982 Honda 110. The original owner let it go cheap, because it had no spark. I have tried everything I can think of and cannot get this little sucker to spark! I checked the resistance of the components with a multi-meter, and they all read to spec. I put the cdi, coil, wire, & plug cap on a different bike (1982 200e) and it fired right up. I swapped the pulse generator and checked the clearance, still nothing. I put in a new primary ignition coil, still nothing. I checked the kill switch and traced every wire I could think of and cannot find a problem. The only potential problem I saw was a small amount of metal filings stuck to the magnet on the flywheel, but other than that everything looked mint. Please help.

[0GravityMX]

mine did the same thing...it was the plug..the 110s will not run with out a resistor plug (NGK R)

[EarlyBronocGuy]

I recently got my hands on a real nice 1982 Honda 110. The original owner let it go cheap, because it had no spark. I have tried everything I can think of and cannot get this little sucker to spark! I checked the resistance of the components with a multi-meter, and they all read to spec. I put the cdi, coil, wire, & plug cap on a different bike (1982 200e) and it fired right up. I swapped the pulse generator and checked the clearance, still nothing. I put in a new primary ignition coil, still nothing. I checked the kill switch and traced every wire I could think of and cannot find a problem. The only potential problem I saw was a small amount of metal filings stuck to the magnet on the flywheel, but other than that everything looked mint. Please help.

Bad neutral safety switch?

[0GravityMX]

110 dosent have a neutral switch

[84honda200s]

check your grounds too . sometimes if the ignition coil isnt grounded just rite it wont fire. also is it timed rite ? ive gotten motors in the past that wouldnt fire because the person that rebuilt them or whatever didnt have it tdc when the put the pulse generator in.

[tri again]

I can't tell you how many times that LAST 1/4" of the plug wire where it screws into the plug cap gets funky.
clip off the last tiny little bit of the plug wire and screw the resistor cap back on.
THE stupidist, eaasiest thing to do but make sure the wire is still long enuf..all ya gotta trim is the last 1/4 or 1/8th inch.

you can also check out the stator output but remember it's AC voltage so watch and set your meter appropriately...have a friend watch for the spike ....that gets converted to DC in the cdi unit and then shuffled off to the coil, triggered by that thing under the cover that says 'cdi'

make sure alll the stuff under the cover that says 'cdi' all clean and with almost no clearance. red rust dust is conductive and can throw electrical signals off

frame grounds esp scratch the paint off of where the coil mounts to the frame.

I use heavy grit or a rock to get the coil to ground absolutely to the frame and sometimes those spiffy star washers that Bite real good

[mullet]

Thanks for all the good tips guys. The plug wire and ground are good for sure. But, I have not checked the timing. Will it not fire at all if its not timed right?? I just assumed it would (might not fire at the right time, but would still fire). Also, I tried 3 different plugs, but did not check if they were NGK R's.

[84honda200s]

if its too far out of time it wont fire. . ive bin there a few times lol. ive bin in the same boat as you are a couple of times. i know it can be a pain in the butt but there is always a way to cure a problem. just takes time. good luck man

[muthey]

turn the kill switch to off and check for spark you would be amazed how many of those got turned around when people were fiddle fating around my 82 2oo was backwards, I went through all the same issues, or disconnect the kill switch altogether to check your spark

[mullet]

Okay..so I finally got to monkey around with it again this weekend. The timing is way screwed up. The gasket under the CDI was torn in half, so I know the guy before me had been messing with it. Instead of messing with the timing on the bike, I decided to pull the whole motor and transmission. So now I have the sucker sitting on my workbench and thats as far as I got before I ran out of time.

My question now is, should I try and reset the timing and put it back together to see if it works, or can I assume the valves and or piston got damaged and I now need a complete rebuild? The motor does have decent compression (my gauge read about 130, but I dropped it on the cement floor in the process of retrieving it, so it may now be off by quite a bit).

Also, the timing chain was pretty loose. I tried to take the slop out with the adjuster, but it did not seem to have any effect. Is there an internal pulley/gear that might be busted or something?

Is there a timing mark on the cam pulley? Where do I line it up with the flywheel F/T mark in the inspection hole? Also, I read about a spark advancer key on the pulse generator. If he messed with this as well, where is the stock position (I have not looked into it)?

Sorry if some of these questions seem novice. I do not have a whole lot of experience with 4 stroke motors.

[thestud25]

You need to search and download a manual off of here. Pull the head. You should be able to tell if the valves are fine without digging deeper. My advice it to put an add in the classified section to buy a 110 motor or grab one off feebay. There are several chinese motors that will bolt right in to the ATC110 frame. They may be a cheaper option as well.

[mullet]

I might be able to get a 1981 ATC 110 parts bike with a good motor. Is the 1981 motor interchangeable with the 82? I have checked the specifications and brochure pages. The only differences I can find are the engine numbers, and the oil capacity (1981 has 1qt while 1982 has 1.2qt). Does anyone know if this is the same engine?

[0GravityMX]

motor will interchange. but why not fix the original one? and get hte parts bike and fix it up?

[mullet]

So, it turns out the guy screwed up the cam chain tensioner, and the adjusting bolt was frozen and rounded off. Ordered a bunch of stuff and rebuilt the engine as long as I had it taken apart. Put the sucker back together and threw it back on the wheeler. Pulled it over....tah-dah! still no spark!

So....started back from square 1. Took all the electric components off (CDI box, coil/plug wire/cap/plug, pulse generator, whole CDI assembly yada yada yada). Put all them on my 200e. Got a spark. However, the brand new plug I had (NGK R DR8ESL) had a much weaker spark than the older plug out of the 200e (identical plug). They are gapped the same. Has anyone seen this before?

Anyways...thats as far as I got before I had to call it quits for the weekend. Next step I can think of is to go thru the wiring. However, I already did this and everything looked brand new, had continuity, and I sanded down the ground on the coil mount.

Also, before I dismantled it, I checked the voltage coming out of the magneto. It was 32VAC peak, which is the same voltage as my 200e put out.

Anybody have other suggestions that I should check?

[CrkdLtr]

What's your ohm reading on the exciter coil?

[mullet]

The stock exciter coil had the correct reading according to the manual (don't remember what it was right now), but i already replaced it with a brand new one to be sure... Plus, I'm getting voltage off the primary ignition coil, so I do not think its the problem (maybe I'm wrong though?).

[mullet]

I found the problem. The hot wire running to the coil had a break a 1/4 inch back from the connector. There were still a couple strands intact. I could not see the damage to the wire because the insulator was hiding it and it looked undamaged, and the connector looked good, and it had continuity because of the couple strands that were intact. But it could not carry enough current to get the coil to energize. Cut it, stripped it, put a new connector on, and my freshly rebuilt bike started on the 3rd pull! Thanks for all the help guys!