any info on e-bay bolt kits?

[BAN ONE]

looking into buying a bolt kit for my 86R resto. says they are stainless and there is 448 or so in the kit already bagged so you know which ones are which. anybody ever buy one of these..not really looking forward to trying to find every size and length bolt and i dont want to get a bunch of the same then cut them and have them rust. i know the kit that has 448 or so they are counting washers to but just looking for input before i go that route.

[bigbadktm]

i was looking into those as well and hoped that somebody else had tried them out.

[BAN ONE]

yeah kinda hate to spend the 120 bucks on it but i think would be worth it for how they look and never really had much luck painting bolts plus this one is missing some

[Tri-Z 250]

I ordered(thru QC) one off the 3WW.org nuts and bolts guy...he's all over Ebay. I did it mostly by request of my motor builder who has used them in the past. Mind you my motor is Black, coolhead included and it really sets it off look wise. I'm getting to the rest of the machine shortly but I'm glad I spent the $. The suspension bolts are the right size but ARE NOT tempered stainless,...so they bend(I'm told by a go big Pro). No big deal, considering thats 3-4 bolts depending on the machine. It doesn't mean you couldn't use them in other situations for other needs. Looks wise and convience of having a NO rust bolt that the threads are mint, for the price I'd do it again no question.

[obijuan]

i bought a set from the dude on ebay, fastener guy or whatever. theyll be here the 11th. ill post up pics.

[bigbadktm]

wow i haven't looked at them in a while, i didn't realize that they were that expensive. I'll wait til i do my rebuild to buy a set

[obijuan]

well i figured .30 for each fastener, mine was 407 pc. theyre stainless cap heads, nice fasteners. important ones ill rehab, but for the most part its a great deal IMO.

[obijuan]

just got in the mail this morning, nice bolts. but included wheel nuts arent conical seat, just flat with washers.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c279/gottasmallface/IMG_0121.jpg

[Mosh]

I have used those Fastnerguy EBay kits..I love em.
Totaly worth it..The only bolts I dont use is the shock and linkage bolts..OEM only for those.

[BAN ONE]

well seems to be pretty good feedback on the bolts so i think i will order some today so i can get back working on this project. thanks!

[obijuan]

started putting things together, and the front forks screws are in the wrong bags kinda but the shank on the long two are too long. you gotta drill out the area for the shank to go deeper. fairly easy but still....

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c279/gottasmallface/5ca8dbbf.jpg

[Grizzlypeg]

Are you going to put some anti seize on them before installing? I think I'd do it out of caution. Stainless is weird for galling when you torque them up. Perhaps that's not a problem when its going into aluminum.

[obijuan]

Yeah I do, it's also stated on the package. Just try to prevent a galvanic reaction or whatever it's called for two different metals.

[seadoo650]

I used one of those kits on my 250R. I tried using the motor mount bolts and we had to pull the motor out for some reason and alot of them stripped the thread. Just an FYI. I am using the stock motor mounts bolts as well as the stock suspencion bolts. Other than those things it's a great kit.

[Grizzlypeg]

I used one of those kits on my 250R. I tried using the motor mount bolts and we had to pull the motor out for some reason and alot of them stripped the thread. Just an FYI. I am using the stock motor mounts bolts as well as the stock suspencion bolts. Other than those things it's a great kit.


That's the kind of galling I've seen some of when I used stainless fasteners. Its like the stainless sticks to the stainless and peels apart when your turn them under torque, either during tightening or loosening. Perhaps the appropriate anti-seize can prevent this.

[Grizzlypeg]

Here's a good article on thread galling.

http://www.estainlesssteel.com/gallingofstainless.html

[Dirtcrasher]

FASTNER GUY - Loved his kit.

Remember the basics and you'll be good guys!

As a rule - ANY BOLT must be 1 and 1/2 as long into the threads as the bolt diameter for the maximum strength. If your not sure, the parts diagram usually states the length.

SO as a rule: 6MM - 9MM threads in, 8MM - 12MM threads in, 10MM - 15MM threads in.... If any of these are a bit longer it can break things behind it, too short (like many of the "case" bolts they send you) are too short and strip the threads.

I found in my 20 day build that a few head bolts were too long, case bolts too short and footpeg and suspension were the wrong pitch. These guys buy 1000 M8 x 10,15,20,25,30,40 etc etc. If your case bolt should be 22mm's and you jam 3 extra mm's in there it will strip or break something behind it.

They are all common mistakes I find in every part I buy, no one is perfect, you have to be taught! Such as typically if you take off your clutch cover and look at all the exposed threads, they are nearly all the identical length. If not, find out why.

Most IMPORTANT bolts are a 1.0 pitch, like footpegs and suspension (someone mentioned the strength already of those)

6 x 1.0
8 x 1.25
10 x 1.25 are very common bolts. Many people jam a 10MM x 1.25 into a 10MM x 1.0 pitch

Save all the old bolts in a 1 gallon ziplock, match them up to be sure. Or, get a piece of cardboard, draw your covers and jam the old bolts in there.

And last, you should all have a metric tap set, esp a thread gauge, they're cheap and tell you the pitch. BUT, you will have to get the extra specialty taps, mainly 10mm x 1.0 pitch and I have seen 8MM x 1.0 pitch, spark plug taps are another story but once you start chasing all your threads, you will enjoy doing it. Once you figure out the right thread, tap away and put some lube on that new bolt; NO more snapped rusty fastners!!!!

[Mosh]

Remember the basics and you'll be good guys!

They are all common mistakes I find in every part I buy, no one is perfect, you have to be taught! Such as typically if you take off your clutch cover and look at all the exposed threads, they are nearly all the identical length. If not, find out why.


This is the best thing I have seen posted in quite awhile.

Remember, these "aftermarket" items are just that.
They will almost never fit as good as OEM, but are significantly cheaper, and more available than discontinued parts.
For that I am grateful.

I dont mind having to "tweek" something to get the perfgect fit, as long as it can be done with a file or tap and die set, that almost "Every" recreational wrencher and mechanic should have.

Having said that.
I have used about 3 kits from fastner guy on a Tri-z and have never had any issues.
Actually, I had stuff left over...