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leecox
06-14-2010, 10:57 PM
i have a 1986 250r i bought it from my uncle and he parked it like in the 90's and i cant kick start it it wont go down i don't know what to do can you help me ok so to day i was taking the right crank case cover off to see if the gear were jamed and when i was tighting the cover back on it crack now what do i do i bought some jb weld it that going to do the job.:(

Xpress
06-14-2010, 11:27 PM
What? Huh? Where's the proper sentence structure??

200XMichigan
06-15-2010, 12:14 AM
Ouch. Don't over tighten anything. It's all aluminum. Just use a little 1/4 in ratchet. Also sounds like it might be seized up. If you can't kick it over, first thing to check is the rings and the cylinder. Pull the spark plug and shine a light in there. If its all rusty that's likely the problem. Fill the cylinder with penetrating oil and let it sit for a few days. If you are working outside put the spark plug back in. Take it out 3 days later and see if it turns over then.

Service manual are located in world class help. A service manual is great. Read what you are going to do before you start doing it. And print the whole thing.

leecox
06-15-2010, 12:31 AM
i took the spark plug out and i took the bolt out so i could see the piston and the piston was at the bottom of the cylinder my dad said it doesnt suspose to be at the bottom but i will lube it up and see wat happend and wat about the crack crank case cover

aldochina
06-15-2010, 12:48 AM
jb weld sucks!! Might work, but will look like crap. scour e-bay or the classifieds for a new cover. Invest in a 1/4" torque wrench!!!And use the manual!! these parts are 25 yrs old, and long discontinued, so careless mistakes can be costly!! good luck!

whipit
06-15-2010, 09:30 AM
stop messing with it now and get an experienced mechanic to fix it. It takes some knowledge and experience to work on these machines and it sounds like you could use the help

Dirtcrasher
06-15-2010, 09:38 AM
Mechanics rule#1 - Never FORCE anything. Bolts do not pull assemblys together, something was not lined up.......

Brockey
06-15-2010, 09:43 AM
Mechanics rule#1 - Never FORCE anything. Bolts do not pull assemblys together, something was not lined up.......


So thats what I does wrong. lol. Joking that is awesome advice tho. I am guilty sometimes.

leecox
06-15-2010, 11:25 PM
i took the whole head off and i fixed the cover with jb weld it work great but when i took the head off i saw that the piston crack and the reason the motor wouldnt turn over is because the crack peaces fell in the engine now i got to take the whole engine apart and where does it tell y what size piston because i dont know if my uncle got it bored out where does it tell you the piston size

3wheelmecca
06-15-2010, 11:33 PM
the crown of the piston should reveal the STD mark or overbore.

dcreel
06-15-2010, 11:38 PM
Or you will have to measure the bore with a bore gauge and micrometer. If the bore is scratched or has grooves in it you will have to have it bored to the next (over)size.

KASEY
06-16-2010, 12:01 AM
IF IT HAD A MELT DOWN,, YOUR IN FOR SPLITTING THE CASES TOO.. main bearings will be junk too.

leecox
06-16-2010, 12:10 AM
look like i came to the right place thank you to all the 3 wheeler fans who helped me if i have and more question i will post them here

jessearends
06-16-2010, 12:59 AM
Hey leecox.............If you ever decide to give up on this one i know a good home for it, my shop, just kidding, but really you should get a manual, they are a max of 30 bucks on ebay and they have a PRICELESS list of mechanical operations inside. I bought one for every vintage machine i've owned, no matter how many wheels, and they are worth every penny. Good luck with the 250r its been my dream since birth to own one.

harryredtrike
06-16-2010, 01:20 AM
there are free manuals right on this site.please use them.that is the best threewheeler ever made dont jack it up please

juggaloclownz18
06-16-2010, 06:26 AM
Shitty deal, its a PITA trying to get all the metal shards out of your bottom end!! Good luck bro, there all good peoples on here, lots of good reading, the search button will become your best friend!!

Also please please please split the bottom to get the metal out, no half assed jobs or your will waste all your time and start all over again, if you miss even one tiny piece, i have seen people get lazy it sucks, but in the end its well worth it!!

Mosh
06-16-2010, 08:00 AM
Sounds like you inherited a real basket case here, and you are going into the project fairly green.

You will for sure need to split this whole engine down for a proper repair and you will need a new crank.
The machine shop will tell you what size piston you need once they see and measure the jug.

You will definately need a reapir manual for this job,and they can be purchased for about 25 bucks at any cycle shop or on ebay.
They are free here for download on the computer, but the book version will be easier to work with in the shop.

Get a manual, post up with questions here, and check out this thread..
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/showthread.php?96672-A-pretty-good-tutorial-on-Engine-rebuilding.Videos-included.&highlight=
It is a complete video series of how to diassemble a 2 stroke engine.
It may also be quicker and more cost efficient to have a experienced mechanic do this job for you too.
Or even a used engine that runs from Ebay, may be a better route too.
I am not trying to deter you from learining or doing this job yourself, but from what I have read so far, this project may be a little to advanced for you to take on yourself.
There are special tools involved, and these 250R engine cases are no longer available to buy if they get broken due to improper service methods.
Just parting your engine out, may actually pay for about 60% of a complete used running engine.
Empty 250R bottom case halves are bringing around 200-400 bucks if they are not cracked.
Used engines that run, are about 600 bucks. A rebuild on this current engine is gonna cost you almost that much in parts too.
Good luck.

TeamGeek6
06-19-2010, 05:39 PM
this isnt a repair, its a rebuild, new crank/rod bearings and if you have any intent of keeping it long term, GET PARTS NOW before they are all gone.

DO NOT reinstall the head until both the head and deck are milled. I did and almost lost an engine due to a coolant leak.