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View Full Version : Honda 200s sorry if this is a re-thread. New here



ManiacalOffroad
05-07-2010, 03:12 PM
Hello! I recently bought a 1984 Honda 200s from my neighbor. I can't get it to start, I have spark and fuel. I am wondering if it's too much fuel or too little spark? Or is there something else with this model I should know? I downloaded the .pdf shop manual you've provided (TYVM!) and it has given me ideas, but I would like some input from small engine guys/gals. For time sake, let's assume the spark is up to spec. and go from there. A brief history: 2 years ago I drove this rig and it was surprisingly fast (and lotsa fun) >< For some reason they decided to rebuild the carb and it hasn't been right since. It would run, but quickly stall. I bought it from him last week and only twice have I gotten it to start but only briefly. I am confident with any type of automobile issues. I have been muddin for 16 years but this small engine stuff is killin me ><.

Some info:
Ignition system is newer and seems to be functioning correctly.
Pull start can be sticky, but typically works correctly.
Gas tank has developed a slight leak (looking for a good one)
I have opened the carb and cleaned it, already has new "slow" jet but original main
no new float or seat
I have been through the entire electrical / ignition system cleaning connections and checking wires
the headlight doesn't work (since wire harness connects in the headlight bezzle I figured I'd mention it)
I apologize for such a long post, just want to bring ya'll up to speed.

one more question .. can anyone please explain the difference between the 200s and the 200sx and the other 200's of this era? And are the carbs from these models interchangable? tyvm again

-Jeff

Xhumeka
05-07-2010, 04:06 PM
What happens if you remove the plug and spray a shot of quickstart into the cylinder? Will it start and run for a couple of seconds then die, or...?

TheRealFatShady
05-07-2010, 04:09 PM
I hope its the pullcord rope that's sticky, and not the engine not wanting to turn, I've had one like that. Believe it or not, adding oil seemed to fix it.

Anyway, you may have bad timing and/or low compression. Maybe rings/piston are worn or a valve is stuck open.

My guess - do you still have a decompression cable? Remove it. I NEVER got mine to start until I removed mine

jb2wheels
05-07-2010, 04:17 PM
If it hasn't run right since the carb was "rebuilt", start there.
What did you do when you cleaned the carb? You need to take out all the jets and blow carb cleaner and air through all the jets and holes. Also, I've had jets so clogged in the past I had to use a strand or 2 of copper wire (like from a piece of multi-stranded 14ga wire) to open them up.
Might even be worth buying a $15 kit and replcing parts. These carbs wear out the needle jet quickly. Makes for sloppy running but they still run.
How old is the gas?
How does the in-tank filter on the fuel valve look? If the tank is rusted enough to leak, there's an excellent chance it's shedding enough gunk to clog the petcock and carb passages. Clean the tank and put a fuel filter on the line until the tank is replaced. Get a little lawn mower filter from Home Depot if it's close by. Nothing special needed.

Honda made a couple of different ATC 200 models:
the original ATC 200 = 25x12x9 tires, no suspension pull start.
some variants of the original ATC 200 = ATC 200M, 200ES, 200 Big Red. Combinations of pull start, electric start, reverse, front suspension, etc but I don't know how that relates to model designation.
ATC 200s = more of a sport model, lighter weight, 22x11x8 tires, pull start, front suspension.
ATC 200x = true sport 3 wheeler. Full suspension, kick start, manual clutch.
The carbs are basically interchangeable - if it runs on one, it should run on the others.
ATC 185 and 185s are part of the same family tree, just 15cc smaller engine.

ManiacalOffroad
05-07-2010, 04:18 PM
Haven't tried it yet but am going out to buy some tonight so I'll try tomorrow

ManiacalOffroad
05-07-2010, 04:20 PM
well I know the engine isn't seized. But there may be 'd use my tester on it. Yes it still has the cable, and it doesn't seem to work well. Dirty cable or something. I will undo it and be ready to pull my arm out of socket >< lol

ManiacalOffroad
05-07-2010, 04:32 PM
If it hasn't run right since the carb was "rebuilt", start there.
What did you do when you cleaned the carb? You need to take out all the jets and blow carb cleaner and air through all the jets and holes. Also, I've had jets so clogged in the past I had to use a strand or 2 of copper wire (like from a piece of multi-stranded 14ga wire) to open them up.
Might even be worth buying a $15 kit and replcing parts. These carbs wear out the needle jet quickly. Makes for sloppy running but they still run.
How old is the gas?
How does the in-tank filter on the fuel valve look? If the tank is rusted enough to leak, there's an excellent chance it's shedding enough gunk to clog the petcock and carb passages. Clean the tank and put a fuel filter on the line until the tank is replaced. Get a little lawn mower filter from Home Depot if it's close by. Nothing special needed.

Honda made a couple of different ATC 200 models:
the original ATC 200 = 25x12x9 tires, no suspension pull start.
some variants of the original ATC 200 = ATC 200M, 200ES, 200 Big Red. Combinations of pull start, electric start, reverse, front suspension, etc but I don't know how that relates to model designation.
ATC 200s = more of a sport model, lighter weight, 22x11x8 tires, pull start, front suspension.
ATC 200x = true sport 3 wheeler. Full suspension, kick start, manual clutch.
The carbs are basically interchangeable - if it runs on one, it should run on the others.
ATC 185 and 185s are part of the same family tree, just 15cc smaller engine.


Awesome tyvm for all the info. I used carb cleaner and compressed air in all the journals and throughout. I was going to ask if I could run the external inline filter so I could see if the fuel is clean. The fuel throughout the fuel system is new I cleaned everything with carb cleaner and blew out the gas tank the added new gas. But I recently noticed some very small flakes in the tank. The gas screen is old, but I haven't noticed it blocked yet. But I also have never cleaned the fuel shutoff. Does a kit come with a new float? The kit they bought must not have because it is still the original float. He kept the original internal parts from before the rebuild. I decided to put them back in to get a fresh start. The two "slow" jets are stamped with different numbers. The original was blocked like you said and I did the exact same thing. But she still won't start. And one last silly question. The tank is pressurized? I assumed thats what the "on / off" lever on the gas cap was for. If the tank is pressurized and if it leaks, would the lack of pressure be sufficient to cause this problem? tyvm tp all who replied.

TheRealFatShady
05-07-2010, 04:32 PM
Just pull perfectly straight up, I found one spot where it is 5x easier than anywhere else.....and the trike never lifts off the ground when I pull it!

But literally I took off my decomp. cable after not getting it to start with spark + carb spray, and first or second pull it ran. And ever since then, the first pull starts it.

bigworm626
05-07-2010, 04:48 PM
Try the quick spray shoot it down the plug hole, also make sure your spark plug is not fouled (charred black)

ManiacalOffroad
05-07-2010, 11:23 PM
tyvm for the info I will be detaching the cable and buying a new plug tomorrow and I'll try the starting fluid in the cylinder. I'll let ya's know how it goes.

mike1979
05-08-2010, 07:22 AM
tyvm for the info I will be detaching the cable and buying a new plug tomorrow and I'll try the starting fluid in the cylinder. I'll let ya's know how it goes.


Yeah, try the plug. (I just assume thats is the first thing people do) Anyway, where in Michigan are you. I have quite a few 200 parts if you are nearby. I am in the Lansing area

ManiacalOffroad
05-08-2010, 11:00 AM
Yeah, try the plug. (I just assume thats is the first thing people do) Anyway, where in Michigan are you. I have quite a few 200 parts if you are nearby. I am in the Lansing area

I live in Mt. Morris which is north of Flint. I would be willing to make a trip to Lansing depending on my allowance for the week >< My wife smartly keeps an iron fist on our cash flow. We all want this thing running I want to use it to maintain hunting blinds behind our house this summer. I also have alot of parts for 70's - 90 trucks 2 and 4wd mainly Chevy. If needed I would be willing to trade. I just don't have a stock pile of ATV/ATC parts yet. There are alot of Michiganders on here... it's good to see. If any of you have ever been to the Mounds ORV park, I live less than 5 mins down the road from it.

ManiacalOffroad
05-08-2010, 11:16 AM
I also wanted to mention that the throttle slide (?) where the adjustment screw makes contact with the groove adjusting the throttle, That groove surface shows evidence of over tightening. It is no longer smooth, it has indents in about 3 locations. Would this be sufficient enough to cause it to not start at all?

ManiacalOffroad
05-09-2010, 12:31 PM
Okay, so my Honda has to be put on the back burner for a week or so. I recently finished building a .40 over (.357 cubic inch) Vortec motor for my 98' GMC Z71. I got it in and it runs great besides the rod tick on the #5. Pulled the crank last night and the #5 lobe wasn't turned correctly. I hate most machine shops! So I have to spend some money on that. I will still log on and chat now and then. BTW if anyone would like to see pics of my rigs and projects search for Jr Fyvie on Facebook. Just type 3wheelerworld in the message :)) As soon as possible I'll p[ost pics of the Honda. Ty all again for being so helpful.

ManiacalOffroad
06-21-2010, 02:10 PM
ok so Honda is running great. I cleaned the tank and carb (again) and found rust in the two back "points" of the tank (inside) I cleaned it the best I could then recleaned the carb and she fired. We have been riding it since with no probs besides the brakes from sitting. I will be taking pics tonight. I also had to do the redneck patch on the outside of the tank as a temporary fix and am wondering if someone makes a plastic or composite replacement tank? I really do not want to hassle with refurbishing this tank. I don't mind spending a little more for a good one. thanks everyone! :))

HONDA_ATC_FREAK
06-21-2010, 03:03 PM
Clarke makes a plastic tank for them just under 200.00 might just be cheaper to buy a tank from a member on hear, try the classifields with a wanted add.

juggaloclownz18
06-21-2010, 03:41 PM
go to your local shop and pick up an inline filter, i have had 2 200s with rusted tanks, both bikes in good shape otherwise and one tiny tiny speck means cleaning the carb all over again, you can see the filters, get the clear round ones.... Works perfect, no more rust problems or dirt EVER!

Use them on all my bikes!

Walkerallen
06-21-2010, 03:44 PM
for the tank get on e-bay ans search for a clark plastic replacement tank for you year of the 200s