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View Full Version : Tank Rusty inside, Help!



oldtoys72
05-06-2010, 09:08 PM
The tank on the 250SX that i recentlly got has some serious rust issues on the inside of it. When I was about 12yrs old iI had a 200X that had the same type of problem. I cannot for the life of me remember what exactlly it was that fixed it but i remember I took it to what I think was a hardware store or maybe it was a small mechanic shop, either way they did something to get rid of the rust then they put somekind of sealant on the metal so that it would not have that problem again! Does anybody know what Im talking about?!:crazy:

jays375
05-06-2010, 09:38 PM
Evapo-Rust works really good and won't hurt the paint.I just cleaned a tank that was really bad.Don't put it in all at once.Just put some in and keep flipping every day.After a couple of days drain out and put fresh in.Tractor Supply sells it for $20,you might need a rain check it sells quick.I am going to use Por sealer,just the sealer.Not going to buy a kit.

jeswinehart
05-06-2010, 09:41 PM
Yes Mike, there are good fuel tank liners out there and several ways of removing the rust prior to sealing up the inside of your tank.
Red coat tank liner from Damion (spelling?) industries is my choice but I have heard great results using a product called Poure (?).
I personally have had ZERO luck with cream tank liner.
here are a few postings on the subject (forget the tecate and 250R listings since they are plastic tanks although i have my plastic tank lined with Red coat so after market decals stay on)
http://www.3wheelerworld.com/search.php?searchid=503662

beets442
05-06-2010, 09:46 PM
Kreem or Por-15 maybe. Can you see inside to see if the old sealer is peeling? If it is, it has to be removed.
MEK-Methelethelkeytone (NASTY STUFF!!!!Gloves and goggles!!!!!!) will remove it and some other chemicals if someone else wants to mention them.
I use http://www.kbs-coatings.com/Tank-Sealers_c_7-1-0.htmlm Cycle tanks @ the bottom of page $35.$44 W/shipping..Goodluck ...Beets

Thorpe
05-06-2010, 10:12 PM
POR-15 works well. Buy the kit, and use all their prep products. Kreem SUCKS

jb2wheels
05-06-2010, 10:42 PM
I clean mine with pool acid. It's muriatic acid also known as hydrochloric acid. It's nasty and clean up and disposal are a pain.
Try the evapo rust stuff first. That's what I'm trynig next time.

If you use the pool acid...

Wear gloves.
Wear goggles.
Wear checmical apron.
Do this out in the open with lots of ventilation.
Plug the outlet - the acid ate through my petcock on the 200x tank I did last week.
Fill the tank 1/2 with water.
Top off with acid.
Let it sit for an hour or so.
While you're waiting, mix up a big batch of baking soda and water to rinse the tank with and neutralize the acid.
Drain tank.
Rinse with baking soda and water.
Flush with acetone to help dry it out.
Admire your clean tank.

I havent sealed a tank after this. I've cleaned 3 in the last year or so.

haggard 2hundie
05-06-2010, 11:02 PM
if u use the MEK WATCH OUT FOR THE CANCER THAT FOLLOWS !!

oldtoys72
05-06-2010, 11:06 PM
huh? whats that suppose to mean?

portland250r
05-06-2010, 11:17 PM
i have the same problem with a 350x.
im either using kreem or por 15
i think por cause someone said kreem sucks.

oldtoys72
05-06-2010, 11:20 PM
from what everybody seems to be sayin.... Kreem is terrible and por-15 is the way to go for sure, anybody know how much the trailprotrailprotrailprotrailpro costs?

350xRules
05-06-2010, 11:45 PM
The best one I have found so far is Red Kote (thats how they spell it) Its like 30-35 or so on EBay. Its really good stuff! I have always removed the rust from my tanks first with the watered down muriatic acid 50/50 mix with water, but it is a pain to get rid of. If you have lots of tanks to do you can filter and keep using it. After a good washoult with water, a drying out with air and a few washouts with acetone your ready to coat. I have always done that process and the results are awsome, it looks factory. If you just want a down and dirty coating that will work, the Red Kote information states that it will actually stick to and seal rust. You just have to remove the big really lose stuff and it will seal the rest in and prevent future rust. It can also seal small 1mm or less pin holes. Here is a link to their product description:

damonq.com/files/Red-Kote.pdf

This stuff is the best there is

ssrecords
05-07-2010, 12:10 PM
Radiator shop....cheaper

bigworm626
05-07-2010, 12:23 PM
Come on guys, nobody wants to drop $20-35 buck just to clean the inside of your tank, the cheapest & efficent way is to clean it with gas a chain & shake really good. I would do 3-4 flushes, that would do the trick. I've done it with 3 of my bike that weren't used for a good 10 years. Tank come out looking nice & clean.

haggard 2hundie
05-08-2010, 05:35 PM
huh? whats that suppose to mean?

i may be mistaken but alot of ww2 pilots and aviation mechanics got cancer that ws linked to useing the MEK stuff is nasty.

Pafrig
05-09-2010, 02:39 AM
Basicly, MEK is really trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotr ailpro nasty. If you can smell it, you're severly overexposed. I like using physical waus to clean my tank. I mount a bicycle tire on a stand vertically, strap my rusty tank to it, fill said tank up with hard sharp stuff, like crushed rock and glass, then hook up a drill or something to your wheel and turn it for a few hours, replacing the abrasives as needed. To turn it, I put the chick of the drill on the outside of the tire, then put a c clamp on the drill throttle or whatever.