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View Full Version : Removing a broken bolt thread from a PERFECT PC'd frame, without wrecking the PC!!...



Dirtcrasher
03-22-2010, 09:41 PM
This is a frame from a member, maybe you recognize it......

I hade to make a mounting plate so I wouldn't ruin the PC. I just used 5/16th 6061 and mounted it to the opposing footpeg bolts, and the swinger pivot to keep it rigid.

He had already tried to remove it and thats where you see the heat and missing paint from. Can't blame a guy for trying! But there was some HARD stuff in there, either broken drill bits or extractors..... Those things NEVER WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyhow, he didn't know that a footbeg bolt was snapped in there before he sent it off for blasting and Powder Coating. I'm not sure if he broke a drill bit in the hole or an extractor, but this is where a mill gets this sh!t out, dead nuts!

It destroyed my end mill but it wasn't an expensive one so no biggie.

I can helicoil it, but I'm gonna wait and see if Jeff (HONDA250SX) has a time-sert kit.

It's a footpeg, so I like to keep them strong!! Otherwise I'm down with a helicoil anyday......... :D

Mills get out EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D But, I couldn't ruin/chip any of his powdercoating........

Louis Mielke
03-22-2010, 09:48 PM
Nice work DC! Man you are so handy. You should work in some metal shop somewhere.

Vealmonkey
03-22-2010, 10:47 PM
Man, I've got to get you a 350x frame to work on. Something a tad bit easier on you. I also have to get my 200x stuff up to blue27 so he can send you up a package of 200x bits to work on.

3wheelmecca
03-22-2010, 10:54 PM
Dang DC, you are awesome at this stuff. How long have you been a machinist??? I am trying to get good on a mill. any tips??

honda250sx
03-22-2010, 11:11 PM
Parallel's are not used for clamps Steve! LOL

I have the timesert tooling already ready to ship if you need it. Full bodied insert will be MUCH stronger in this instance where all your body weight is potentially on the peg itself. Where I would personally never trust a heli-coil.

Keep the frame in this setup as it will aid in using the timesert tooling and allow everything to be square.

I'm glad we talked about all this before giving it a go. I knew you could do this bro.


HOLLLLLARRRR when you want the kit I get it out priority.

TAKE NOTES...This is for sure how its done.

JasonB
03-23-2010, 07:52 AM
nice work! handy trailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotrailprotr ailpro you are

jeffatc250r
03-23-2010, 10:13 AM
Bridgeports are worth their weight in gold. I keep threatening to get my own in my garage, kinda a pain in the ass to go cross town, especially when your doing a trial and error type thing. In all due time I will have my own. I got spoiled years ago running one with a proto-trak, you can do SO MUCH with one.

Dirtcrasher
03-23-2010, 01:39 PM
For the 100$ I paid for it (with a Kurt Vice) I just couldn't turn it down.......

Tips or tricks? Yes, ignore what the others are doing IF it's not fitting right, and things shouldn't be smoking and squeeling. The best info I got was from a toolmaker; The man was phenominal. He could look at anything and find a way to improve it. Very slow and mythotical; The older the teacher the better!!

Jeff - Yes, please get me out the 10MMx1.25 kit and let me know if I have to get a 16.2 or even longer insert. I'm down about 20-25MM deep so we can use it......

I only used parallels to support the clamps :D I lost my clamp set??!! I guess I gotta grab another one.............

VM - Send me whatever you want. I just wish I had a TIG and I'd be making laydown motors too :lol:

Thanks to the guys givin me props :beer:

honda250sx
03-23-2010, 01:51 PM
Steve the kit I have is 10mm x 1.50 pitch. Is that okay? I DO NOT have the 1.25 pitch kit.

plastikosmd
03-23-2010, 04:17 PM
nice job! mills are handy..was just doin the same thing, tho lot smaller scale bolt! #6-48 in a rifle barrel. nice work DC (note the fancy wood blocks hold the barrel in the vise :)
http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j5/plastikosmd/40xscrewremoval.jpg

tri-Z ripper
03-23-2010, 04:32 PM
nice work DC! Are you looking for a TIG? i may know of someone selling one! Glad to be back on the boards seeing your work again!

jensenracing77
03-23-2010, 06:18 PM
or extractors..... Those things NEVER WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

X2, we call them maybe outs around here.

Dammit!
03-23-2010, 06:35 PM
I did the broken footpeg bolt on my 350x recently. Broke a EZ out in the damn thing (Maybe Out.... I love that). I don't know what they make those things out of but it was at least the fourth one I've broken. Total crap. I wasn't even putting much pressure on it when it broke.

I did manage to get it out using the broken stub of the EZ Out. They seem stronger once they've been broken. :lol:

Took a lot of heat and PB blaster though.

plastikosmd
03-23-2010, 07:35 PM
Lol , ya maybe they work harden after u break it

Dirtcrasher
03-23-2010, 07:54 PM
I can only get them out with punches and hard hard hits!! I just try to shatter them...

I hate them; They've worked 10% of the time in my life. LH drill bits do seem to work, as long as there is no corrosion between the metals.

I think the problem with them may be that the more you drive them in to grab the hole, the more you spread it OUT and "lock" the threads even worse.

I think I mentioned it, but just yesterday a simple 4mm bolt would not come out of the master cylinder of a 400EX. I finally just grabbed the drill/tap size and did it that way, next would have been a helicoil. None of my extractors worked and I had it drilled on center and all that was left was a very thin wall of the rusty bolt within the aluminum master.

Mills take out MOST anything only because they drill dead nuts, you can keep creeping up on sizes and there are ways of securing down whatever you want to deal with!!. Jeff busted my balls (understandably), but I just need an ENCO cheapo clamp set. I can't find mine! I know I kept them when I sold the table top mill :confused: I had to get by for this time and I wanted it done for Johnny Seabass, he's a good sh!t..... And a 2nd gen 200X fan such as myself and Brad!

Plastikos, that mill quill looks huge!, whats that puppy? :naughty: I hope to see you this summer........

John - we'll have to make a decision tomorrow on this. Jeff doesn't have the 10MMx1.25 kit. He has a 10MMx1.50 kit but I'm unsure if you care if we have 1 different bolt in there. I know you have allot of time and some fantastic NOS parts on there so we'll figure it out/talk about it tomorrow; Give me a yell anytime (no work again :( ). The important thing is that the junk is OUT and ready to be re-tapped...... THATS the biggest battle!! Now we can do whatever we want!

I'll make you help me indicate my KURT vice back in :lol: Maybe I should dowel pin that beyatch just so I can get it on and off. Like Jeff said today, we aren't building nuclear reactors! Or are we? :twisted:

honda250sx
03-23-2010, 10:45 PM
Don't helicoil this thing. Once you helicoil, you can't go back and install another one when you strip it out. WITH A TIMESERT... You can. I'm telling ya. No one will know that its a different pitch other than you...

And the way these things vibrate and so on you may tighten that bolt one day and the helicoil will fail and then your up the creek with out a paddle or a footpeg, but at least you will have a big paper weight.

F - it all. Just weld the peg mount on like so many other idiots would lol.

Dirtcrasher
03-23-2010, 11:09 PM
^ Yeah, but then we'd have to try and match the weld the powder and put it back in the oven. Maybe 500 degrees would blend it in?? Kinda like a Smoothy....... :lol: