185s no spark, stator?

[TheRealFatShady]

I have a 1982 185s.

It has no spark. I took a full working pulse generator/spark arrestor assembly off my perfectly running 200s. I saw spark, albeit weak, for every pull. Put it in the plug hole and it wouldn't start.

Now it has no spark at all. Tried different plugs as well.

Then I took a working coil and plug wire off my other bike, it didn't fix it. Then I took a working cdi/regulator? (black box) and that didn't fix it.

No wires are cut/pinched, and none look to have been re-soldered or anything of the sort. Green wire connecting to coil is cleaned, still no spark at all. I disconnected the killswitch wiring to be sure. Nothing.

This leads me to believe it's the stator. Could it be anything else? I also thought timing, but wouldn't that spark sometimes if it did when I first put on a pulsar assembly?

Thanks

[tri again]

I have a 1982 185s.

It has no spark. I took a full working pulse generator/spark arrestor assembly off my perfectly running 200s. I saw spark, albeit weak, for every pull. Put it in the plug hole and it wouldn't start.

Now it has no spark at all. Tried different plugs as well.

Then I took a working coil and plug wire off my other bike, it didn't fix it. Then I took a working cdi/regulator? (black box) and that didn't fix it.

No wires are cut/pinched, and none look to have been re-soldered or anything of the sort. Green wire connecting to coil is cleaned, still no spark at all. I disconnected the killswitch wiring to be sure. Nothing.

This leads me to believe it's the stator. Could it be anything else? I also thought timing, but wouldn't that spark sometimes if it did when I first put on a pulsar assembly?

Thanks

There are a few of us in the same boat.

Swap every part you can think of with KNOWN WORKING stuff and it doesn't help.

Be glad you have an S model wthout all the charging battery circuits and safety neutral cut off switchs and inhibitor relay and reverse cut out...but the song remains the same.

NO spark, or just enough to drive you crazy, eh?

Conceptually, there is no ON.
ON means ABSENCE of kill short to ground.

there might be a ground to the cdi that NEEDS to be there and another ground to the cdi that KILLS it

on purpose.

*I've got 3 different models in my head right now and they're ALL different.

The 84 es's for instance, WANT a ground thru the kill circuit..crosses over with the key switch and light circuit but the no battery trikes do not, for instance.

the ignition stator gen coil ..flywheel voltage provider should ohm out at 200-400 or something but that means nothing if it isnt throwing voltage.

It's supposed to throw 30 at least or 100 volts AC AC AC so check that output when yu spin it

THAT juice goes to the cdi and is amped up and dioded or rectified to (maybe) to DC to run the cdi

The cdi send a signal to the coil BECAUSE of the spinny thing behind that "CDi" cover at the top of the engine running off the cam where older bikes have the points. (ahhhh the good old days)

Now that should ohm out at 30 ohms between the 2 wires but I think one is supposed to have a ground or BE a ground. so check them to ground too

That spins and throw a really fine rust dust over the years that can short out stuff but it's the easiest thing to clean and check.

Correct ohmage does not necessarily mean anything it will work.

grounds, grounds everywhere

do you need a wiring diagram?
and some colored pencils? and a 2$ voltmeter?

man. I'm just so tired of this yes no, on off, spark no spark crap

reminds me of an old girlfriend and which is why I got a new big red yesterday for cheap that RUNS!
I got farm work to do and excuses dont get the cows fed.!


(see recent post about origional owner to lighten the mood_

good luck and hang in there.

yer not the only one going through this right now, and if you DO find an answer?
PLEASE let us know

thanks

[woody]

Very common for the stator winding to go out. There is a guy selling new aftermarket windings for less than $20 including shipping on ebay, I just bought one. You must solder the one wire after cutting off your old one. Manual says 254 ohms, but mine at 200 fires fine. One at 150 will not crank but you can see slight spark, but can't feel shock with your hand. I'd bet on that being your problem, it was mine, and several advised me of this. Good Luck.

[atctim]

I just replaced a cdi unit on a 185S not 1 hour ago that had no spark. All is good now! If you can find a known good one to test with - try that first!

[TheRealFatShady]

I just swapped the stator with one I got from Xfile - member on here. That did not fix it.

Still no spark. The CDI / Pulse generator assembly is off my perfect 200s, as is the regulator. Kill switch/all handlebar wires are disconnected. Coil and plug wire are also off a running bike.

I thought perhaps timing, but even if it were off, I would still expect to see spark - just not necessarily at the correct time.

Any ideas?

[rdlsz24]

Is it ok to have the killswitch disconnected or does the cdi need that input?? I'm not sure. I was trying everything to get spark on my Big Red, pulling my hair out. Finally I look at the killswitch and it was to one side in off position. DER!

Rob

[AutoXer]

i've had trouble with the plug wire off the coil but you probably changed that when you swapped coils... these are so simple yet can be tough to figure out some times

[TheRealFatShady]

Yea it's really pissing me off. I may just part out the good parts from the engine - piston.cylinder/head, and the frame/plastics. It's really frustrating.

[tri again]

Yea it's really pissing me off. I may just part out the good parts from the engine - piston.cylinder/head, and the frame/plastics. It's really frustrating.

hang on (in) there...

I got 2 of them right now
swapped KNOWN working parts from a good bike, spark and NO spark

so i gave up m disconnected the battery to put on another. bike and the s.o.b. started.

There was some kind of cross up between the battery circuit and the ignition.

I have spark withOUT a battery.
Put the battery in and it spins great, neutrallight great but NO spark\\WTF?


some people get new wiring harnesses and admittedly say that the old one was prob ok but just by touching, reconnecting EVERYthing the lil suckers run.

the point is, they now run and no one cares what the problem, really was since it almost impossible to figure out when we change everything with known working parts..and it STILL wont spark.

We're all with you on this one

My favorite is when they have spark, then no spark, and then restart right away,,,or 2 days later

[tri again]

Is it ok to have the killswitch disconnected or does the cdi need that input?? I'm not sure. I was trying everything to get spark on my Big Red, pulling my hair out. Finally I look at the killswitch and it was to one side in off position. DER!

Rob

some guy convinced me that part of the ground in the kill switch is also part of the ground that the CDi NEEDS to run. and it really looks like it on the wire diagram

the other ground to the cdi kills it

When he told me to make sure the kill switch had a good ground I thought that is the LAST thing I wanted
to be working correctly since all I cared about was GETTING spark..

but there is some little bit o' crossover with the ground circuits that are apparently critical

[TheRealFatShady]

Hmmm maybe I can try another set of on/off switches, but I am fairly certain I ran my 110 and 200s without the switches/headlight connected at all....Wish me luck guys

[muthey]

I also have no spark on a 200s, have swapped all electronic parts to a friends running 185s, and they all work. I am thinking it is my alternator and stator I have the right voltage, but maybe there is no amperage, I think a simple light test will do the trick for amperage, also I will be pulling new wiring through the whole trike, anyone know a good way to get to the alternator and stator if you dont have the puller, just in case I need to. will keep everyone informed of my results

[muthey]

well I did the amperage test, and it passed so I went digging deeper into the wiring and to my surprise I discovered the previous owner had messed up the kill switch off was on and vice versa, changed the kill switch to a new one and got her up and running. On another note to anyone wondering about the kill swicth yes you can have it disconnected, to run a non batteried trike head and tail light as well, the kill switch ground kills it