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View Full Version : 20mm x 1.5 Die For 350x Axle?



Xhumeka
02-21-2010, 11:17 PM
I want to run a die over the axle threads on my '86 350x - do I need a 20mm 1.5 die, such as this one?

http://www.amazon.com/20mm-1-5-Carbon-Hex-Die/dp/B0007CNJ2W

Are the axle threads the same for 250r's and 350x's?

Xhumeka
02-23-2010, 11:07 AM
Well, if no-one knows, I guess I'll just order the die and hope for the best... I can't seem to find anywhere in Toronto that sells a die this size.

Xhumeka
02-23-2010, 01:08 PM
Ok, so now that I have found a place to order a die, I have another question for you guys...

I'm trying to repair the threads on my 350x axle, and here's the problem... the outermost threads are DESTROYED for the first 1/3" or so, then the threads become pretty decent. I have a nut that's in good shape, but it obviously won't thread on properly due to the very badly damaged end of the axle.

So I'm not sure how to go about fixing this... if I try to thread the damaged area with a die, what will happen when I get to the "good" threads? Unless I somehow luck out and start the threading perfectly, chances are it may not match up correctly.

So what I was thinking of doing was getting an adjustable die that I could expand as much as possible to get past the first damaged section, then tighten up the die on the good threads so it's matched up. Then cut the new threads 'backwards' so to speak, so i'm running the die from the bottom of the threads working my way towards the end of the axle. Do dies cut from both ends?

Since I've never used a tap or die before, I'm not sure if this is even possible or not - so I'm hoping for some expert advice! I also don't know how expandable these adjustable dies are... will it be able to expand enough to fit overtop of my damaged area?

My only other option would be to grind or file down the damaged area so my axle bolt can slip onto the axle and bit onto the good threads... any and all advice greatly appreciated!!

WIkid500
02-23-2010, 02:30 PM
The adjustable die method would work if you can get one for a reasonable price. The other option would be to have someone who can run a lathe cut the threads from the inside out on the axle. That really shouldn't cost too much if you know someone with a lathe. A little set up and you should be able to clean things up in a few quick passes.

jensenracing77
02-23-2010, 04:28 PM
you need one of these. it is a thread file. you use it just like a file but this has the thread pitch made into the file.
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?item_ID=9693&group_ID=1149

Dirtcrasher
02-23-2010, 08:13 PM
If the head of the bolt is 17 or 19mm, the threads are certainly NOT 20MM. Has to be about 14mm x 1.50 pitch if I had to guess.....

A set of vernier calipers should be in all your tool boxes :D

I use my thread file often........... But, triangular files work too if you just have a bad spot.

SWIGIN
02-23-2010, 09:09 PM
If the head of the bolt is 17 or 19mm, the threads are certainly NOT 20MM. Has to be about 14mm x 1.50 pitch if I had to guess.....

A set of vernier calipers should be in all your tool boxes :D

I use my thread file often........... But, triangular files work too if you just have a bad spot.


I assume he is talking about the axle threads at the end of the axle.

Yamaha_Rules69
02-23-2010, 09:29 PM
I used a dremel tool one time with the thinist cut off wheel I could find, just to clean up the threads on the end, I didnt get too carried away. After that I used a triangular file, and filed the end down a bit more. This worked great for me, and the nut went right on.

Dirtcrasher
02-23-2010, 09:58 PM
I assume he is talking about the axle threads at the end of the axle.

I hear ya, they just can't be 20MM threads.

Even the rear axles are only what? 18mm?? IDK?

Another front axle is cheaper than the die! But, I LOVE having tools to work on other things again and those adjustable dies work pretty good............Thats just me though.

But, if you ruin the lower fork tube threads, you really got yourself in a situation.........

That steel axle goes into an aluminum fork leg, how did that get messed up?

Get a set of digital calipers. They go on sale for about 20$ a pop and at least they get you in the ball park diameter and pitch range ...................

Sh!t, I think I even have a couple Stainless steel front axle bolts from YAMAHONDAMAN!! or I bet SWIGIN can make one or some up! His lathe is thread ready!! and he seems like a great home machinist................

When you put it back together, grease all that stuff up inside and out to keep water out of there!

deathman53
02-23-2010, 10:00 PM
is it a front or rear axle, front axle and swingarm bolt is 14mm1.5, rear axle is 20mm1.5. I use a thread file and die in combo. Fix the threads enough to get the die on, then finish it with the die.

Xhumeka
02-23-2010, 10:13 PM
Thanks for the ideas everyone... I think I'll order a thread file and die like suggested.

It's the rear axle, and according to my measurements (and deathman53 confirmed) it's 20mm (27mm socket to remove the nut).

Here's a picture of the damage - think a thread file and die can repair it?

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/350x/axle_threads/5.JPG

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/350x/axle_threads/3.JPG

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/350x/axle_threads/4.JPG

And here's how far the nut sits when torqued:

http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/350x/axle_threads/1.JPG

tapper190
02-23-2010, 10:26 PM
If the nut spins on and tightens up and stays tight, I wouldn't worry about it. The 250sx shares the same axle nut, if you wanted to know that tinbit of information.
Tapper

jensenracing77
02-23-2010, 10:56 PM
ouch! a little worse than i thought. i think i would look for a good used axle if it were me. that one could be fixed and still be used but i don't think a thread file by itself will get the job done very easy. is that a picture of each side or two shots of the same side?

audioworks04
02-24-2010, 12:44 AM
Wow, agree that a thread file will most likely not work, neither will a die. You could try the die just so that you are able to thread it on, aslong as you get the clamping force that you need, it will be fine. Those look like a lost cause, the only way i see would be to build up material with a weld on that area then turn it down to the od needed for your die, but still not the best. Last option would be to grind off the threads of the end of the axle, but only do this if you believe that you can get enough thread of it. There really isnt a good fix for this problem at least that I can think of other than replacement.

Dirtcrasher
02-24-2010, 01:22 AM
Finally, Yippie Kai Yeah!! It;s the rear axle. I had no friggen clue..................

Those look like a bad nut was forced on them or??

You should've gave up when it didn't go on smooth...............

Doesn't look too good now, even if you chase them.

3wheelmecca
02-24-2010, 01:26 AM
I would just spin down a little on a lathe and rethread it with one size smaller die IMHO. Just use a bigger flange nut or a flatwasher. for what its worth.

Xhumeka
02-24-2010, 10:13 AM
Those look like a bad nut was forced on them or??

You should've gave up when it didn't go on smooth...............

I just picked up this machine last week... went to change the rear sprocket, and when I removed the axle nut that's what I saw. You're right, it does appear someone forced the nut on (many times over I might add!) The nut is in very bad shape as well, I have no idea how the previous owner managed to torque it on tight enough to hold.

I'm _hoping_ I can manage to do the same for the time being - torque the bad nut back on to see if it holds while I try to find a replacement axle. Replacement nuts are $20 a pop from my Honda dealer, so I don't want to damage another one.

The end of the axle is a little bent (not bad enough for much of a wobble, but probably bad enough that a lathe wouldn't work on it...)

Thanks again to everyone for the tips and suggestions!

honda250sx
02-24-2010, 12:17 PM
A good machine shop can pick that thread up manually in a lathe and fix it. Its a 60 degree tool and about 10 minutes of work for them. It would be cheaper than a die. A good machine shop would be my next step.

jensenracing77
02-24-2010, 04:59 PM
don't pay that for nuts. many of us will have some i bet. i have a can full of them.

Xhumeka
03-03-2010, 10:38 AM
is it a front or rear axle, front axle and swingarm bolt is 14mm1.5, rear axle is 20mm1.5. I use a thread file and die in combo. Fix the threads enough to get the die on, then finish it with the die.

Thanks again for everyone's suggestions and ideas. There are some good solutions for a permanent fix listed in this thread that I will keep in mind for down the road, but in the meantime I took deathman53's advice and ordered some thread files and a die from KBC tools that have done the trick nicely.



http://www.ragefaction.info/images/psych0/orv/2010/03/thread_files.jpg



With the above tools, I was able to manually file the end threads of the axle enough to allow the die to thread on correctly. Once I was able to get the die on, it was just a matter of lots of grease and patience. I am now able to spin the nut on by hand, and it is able to bite on well enough that I can torque it down no problem.

Thanks again guys!