200m parts on 200s?

[juggaloclownz18]

Hey guys waiting for my OEM rebuild kit to get here for my 85 200s, will the carb on my 84 200m fit on my 200s and work so i can see how good the 200s will drive or am i stuck waitnig?

Thanks! :D

[atctim]

those carbs are compatible (and nearly identical). The 200M choke is cable operated, while the 200S is not - but it still has the handle you can manually lift up on it.

[juggaloclownz18]

Thanks tim, thats what i wanted to hear, they looked the same just wondered about jetting and all, but ill test her out in a little bit then! :naughty::naughty:

[juggaloclownz18]

Got the known good carb off of my 200m that is a solid runner and it would not run on the 200s, has the same issues as the OEM carb from my 200s so i guess the problem really did lie outside of the carb originally. Now to find the issue..... :cry:

What else could cause it to redline when you start it until you lift up the choke then it settles down but the idle jumps around a bit and as soon as you take the choke back off then it revs right up again and floods out, the mixture screw and the idle screw do not affect these symptoms in any way no matter how its adjusted, same thing all 3 carbs are doing on this bike....

Could it be timing or something like that? Any other thoughts?

[code200k]

is there ain air leaks around the tubes/airbox?

[juggaloclownz18]

None that i could feel but im not sure how to check other then if it blows out a lighter..... but im not too keen on lighting one next to the carb and under the tank area....

[rdlsz24]

Use WD-40 to check for air leaks. If it revs up even higher with the WD-40 you have an air leak.

Rob

[juggaloclownz18]

Awesome thanks, if there are no leaks then is the timing the next step or valve clearance or anything like that that i dont know too much about?

[juggaloclownz18]

I was out of WD-40 but no change in idle when i sprayed the carb boot with PB Blaster, thats all i had, should be close to the same idea right?

[TrailerRider]

Don't think I would have tried the PB buster, I use carb cleaner. Same princpal. Any change and a leak is present. Also spray around intake and topend (head gasket area etc..)

[juggaloclownz18]

Ill go get some WD-40 and spray that on the boots again, and around the top end area.... the bike only runs without redlining when the choke is all the way closed, that is ok for the spray test right?

[matt86200x]

Take the carb off and take the rubber intake boot off. Clean it real good then wrap the intake boot with clear sock tape. Do you have any hockey sock tape? this may sound stupid but i always use the clear sock tape Works everytime for a quick fix.

[3wheeledjunkie]

I think this is thesame prob on my 185, starts but revs really high, will respond to idle change but only drastic ones (like turning the screw out 2 turns, but it'll die). I noticed that the carb to tube and turb to air box is missing the clamps.
P.S- Sory for threadjacking, dude!

[MonroeMike]

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me too.

Have you checked to make sure the slide isn't in 180 degrees and the throttle cable isn't binding?

[dexterr]

http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/whittingtondexter/My%20Stuff/p_00354.jpg http://i740.photobucket.com/albums/xx49/whittingtondexter/My%20Stuff/p_00355.jpg

most are the parts are interchangable, i got 4 bikes now and counting

[juggaloclownz18]

I was thinking it could be a vacuum leak also like MonroeMike said, but i went back out last night and could not find any leaks, my bike runs the same with either carb on it, and my 200s carb works perfect when i ran it on the 200m....

No leaks that i could find anywhere, sprayed WD-40 all over it: headgasket, exhaust header, topend, carb boots etc etc....

Any ignition components that could cause the carb, to get better when the choke gets closed? Im pretty sure its running really lean for some reason but i cannot figure out why, cant find any leaks, but it has lean symptoms from what i can tell....

[atctim]

Have you checked to make sure the slide isn't in 180 degrees and the throttle cable isn't binding?

this is my first thought.

Are you using the 200M throttle cable or the 200S one? The problem could very well lie in the cable if you keep using the same one.

[juggaloclownz18]

I used the cable that goes to the 200s when i was testing the 200s and the cable that is on the 200m with the 200m.... I did not change the cables at all just used the ones allready on the bike and only swapped carbs....

The carbs both worked perfect on the 200m and neither carb worked right on the 200s.... The cable is a little sticky, and i lubed it up with cable lube and it works better, have not tried the 200m cable on the 200s yet.

Even though the cable is sticking a bit, its still opening and closing all the way like it should, and responds to throttle change normal, its just not running right....

All the parts i test from my 200m are good working known parts since this bike is a daily driver, so if they stop working on the 200s then the problem lies somewhere in that bike i would think, and should not lie in the carb or cable i would assume?

[juggaloclownz18]

oh yeah, and i checked the slide was in correct, i thought maybe it got 180 turned but it didn't, it was in the proper way....

[atctim]

what about the cable adjustment at the throttle?

[juggaloclownz18]

Tried that in all positions as well, but even if the cable was pulling the throttle a little bit that shouldn't affect how the choke being closed makes it run better, if you did that on a good running bike it would kill the engine from making too rich right? Im confused maybe im looking at this the wrong way, but i have a new throttle cable on the way but i doubt that will change anything....

[3wheeledjunkie]

What setting is the needle on? It may be too high. I'm having the same sorta of problem with my 185, but it ran good inside, then took it outside (In the cold) and runs likes poop. Fouled a plug, and now it revs high when you start and won't idle down.