Does anyone here split cases and put them back together?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I am just too busy to spend much time working on my 85 Tecate. Plus, I'm not sure if i did this myself that i wouldn't mess something up. My engine runs good and the tranny is good but the cases are welded and have cracks and chips off them. i bought a set of cases in mint condition. All I want to have done id the bottom half of the engine be split, have everything transferred to the good cases and put back together. How much would I expect to spend on something like that? I''ll probably be ready to have it done in 3 or 4 weeks or so if the price is decent. Any advice is appreciated. I want my T3 up and running but I just haven't had a lot of time to work on it lately.:(

[Vealmonkey]

The only thing with something like this is, it would be a good time to replace bearings and seals and gaskets when you have the lower cases apart. You should also really look into the play your rod has on the crank. Maybe a good time to rebuild the lower end since you are already in there and have all the time and labor into the engine already. I would personally hate to have to take the engine apart again to redo the job for a main bearing or rod bearing go bad.

[fabiodriven]

Vealmonkey is right. If you're going to have it apart, get crank seals and bearings, shifter shaft seal, countershaft seal, and a kicker seal. There is no sense in tearing it all down and not replacing those parts. You may even want to get a water pump seal.

[Racerguy381]

I can split cases remove and install new bearings they whole deal. Just Im all the way in WA by the time you paid shipping from there to me and back plus my labor work it wouldnt be worth it. Raffa might know someone out your way.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

I guess i forgot to mention, I already have all the new seals and gaskets to go into it when it goes back together. I wasn't really thinking about the rod bearing because it's so expensive to replace and the engine runs good. I was hoping i could get away with skipping that one. I suppose thats taking a chance of getting bitten in the rear though.

[250twostroker]

Where are you in indiana, im in whiteland, send me a pm

[fabiodriven]

I wasn't really thinking about the rod bearing because it's so expensive to replace and the engine runs good. I was hoping i could get away with skipping that one. I suppose thats taking a chance of getting bitten in the rear though.

You can get away without that one, Hoosier. As long as it's still tight you'll be fine. I haven't done a TON of engines, but in my experience the rod bearing is usually fine.

[Hoosier_Daddy]

Where are you in indiana, im in whiteland, send me a pm
I'm 20 minutes north of Fort Wayne. Isn't Whiteland a little south of Indy?

[Hoosier_Daddy]

You can get away without that one, Hoosier. As long as it's still tight you'll be fine. I haven't done a TON of engines, but in my experience the rod bearing is usually fine.

Appreciate the input bro.

[Dirtcrasher]

I usually "trust" the big end bearing too.... But, when it goes, it's uuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuugly!

I've split most of the models out there by now, and believe it or not, the "ATC70" seems to be the most complicated by far.

Don't ask me why :lol: It's a close second to the 250 ES and SX auto/shaft drive etc etc.....

[sblt500r]

a 20 + year old rod bearings ussually go after the top end is all freshed up. my buddy bought a lt250r thats was all rebuilt, but they didn't change the rod, guess what blew a few hours after he bought it. now its sitting in my yard. the old rod can't handle the power.

if the engine is apart change the rod. if you don't just don't cry after! the tecate rods seem to be the most expensive.

also on a tecate engien you have to press out the main bearings to change the main seals. so change those mains while there out.