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View Full Version : Cant get Tri Z to run right....



Yamaha_Rules69
12-22-2009, 08:15 PM
I am still working on my tri z, but just cant quite figure out its quirk. I did the stage 1 wrench report mod, and did it all exactly as it stated.I am running a DG expansion chamber, answer silencer, upgraded the main jet from a 470 to a 490, as described by the website. I am running the stock airbox setup, and foam filter. I have all the fuel pump/vacuum lines hooked up, but when I ride it,it takes a little bit to get it reved up when you are in gear, and when you get to 3/4 throttle it just cuts out, not bogging, but really raspy, and not smooth or consistant. The carb is clean inside and out, and has a new carb rebuild kit. I double checked the jets, and they all checked out. It almost seems like it runs out of gas when you get it up there in any gear. I tried adjusting the pilot air screw, both ways, and also messed around with the needle clip position, and didnt get any results, it does the same thing. If anyone has any ideas on where to start let me know, and it will be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot, --- Jon.

MTS
12-22-2009, 10:38 PM
Was it a Good running motor before the fresh top end? or something built out of a box..? What dose the Plug look like..? (black brown, white ect)...Dose it run and rev out fine in neutral? Or dose it only do this under load..?

Yamaha_Rules69
12-23-2009, 07:18 PM
The plug looks good color, brownish, maybe slightly rich. It seems to rev out in neutral, and only cuts out under load. The motor I rebuilt myself, and is all done right with the correct measurements. Im kinda starting to think it could be the stator, CDI, or coil itself? Would a bad stator cause it to do this? One other thing I forgot to mention is that it has a tendancy to blow the headlight bulbs. Any advice?

Racerguy381
12-23-2009, 11:09 PM
Voltage regulator, thats why your bulbs keep blowing. It could also be part of the problem your haveing. I had a bunch of problems with mine, that was one of them.

Yamaha_Rules69
12-24-2009, 01:18 PM
So the voltage regulator being bad would cause the coil to mis-fire at higher RPMs, causing it to run this way? I thought the Voltage regulator was just supposed to save the bulbs from blowing out, and wires from melting. I have an extra stator for this machine, but no other electrical what-so-ever. I wouldnt want to buy electrical components and have it still run the same way, but if thats what I have to do, so be it. What about the fuel pump though, if that goes bad will it just not start at all, or???? In my opinion, the tecates and 250Rs are a lot easier to work on, and the Tri Z is kinda a PITA. More input or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a lot.

Racerguy381
12-24-2009, 03:39 PM
I changed the CDI the Stator both trying to chase a jetting problem. When I was in the dunes it blew all the bulbs and was running like crap.... I had a buddy with a banshee and the voltage regulators are the same. Swapped it out and it ran way better. I know they are only supposed to keep the right amount of voltage going to the lighting system but for some reason when they quit working they screw with the ignition system. At least in my case it has I dont know if anyone else has experianced this. You can find voltage regulators on ebay all the time. Like I said the banshee ones are exactly the same, the Z part # supersedes to the banshee. Hope that helps