Best Break in Procedure

[jbandb]

Hey all,

As some of you who have read my previous posts may already know, I am in the process of doing complete top end rebuilds on my '83 Big Red 200e and my unknown year 185 trike.

Not that it matters for this particular question, but the 185 is getting a stock 200e jug and piston installed also to up the displacement to a 200 as well.

Anyway, my question is this:

What is the best break in procedure for once these two are back together?

I've read some posts that say hold the rpm's at 2500-4000 for 10-15 minutes right after starting for the first time, and others say keep the rpm's low for the first 15-30 minutes.

Some say to break the motor in under a heavy load such as lugging it in a little too high of a gear, and others say to break it in idleing under no load at all due to decreased oil coverage after being rebuilt.

I am going to put new rings in, which both are on the stock bore (65mm) and the cylinders are both below the max specs in size.

I am going to hone and de-glaze the cylinders of course.

I am reusing the stock pistons as well as they are both in great shape.

Timing chains are new as well and I will be finishing everything off with all new top end gaskets, o-rings, and seals.

So, what would you all recommend as the best way to break in a stock 200e Big Red and a 185 converted to a 200?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated as always.

Thanks!

[lndy650]

use mineral oil for break in no synthetic oil... take it easy the firstr 20-30 minutes and slowly get harder on the throttle. the main thing is to keep the temp down dont hold it wide open and dont putt around really slow make sure the engine gets air so it can stay cool

[tech2452]

let idle for 10 minutes. take in open field and put it in 4th gear at low speed and give it full throttle and let the rpms climb up slowly. let engine slow down by itsself (NO BRAKES) repeat 5 or 6 times. this is the proper way to seat the rings. after that drive it normally for a tank or so. do not rev it reall high.

[audioworks04]

I was always told to not let it idle at all, unless it is a higher than normal rpm. Also I always like to ride it at what I would call a medium aggression and to keep the rpms always changing for the first 1/2 tank. As far as gas mix for 2 strokes I like to run a little but richer than normal for the first tank, and then its free game. On 4 strokes I like to add a small amount of 2 stroke oil in with the first tank to help lubricate the rings.

[Tecate250]

Well I have broken in my old tecate a few different ways. But the one that lasted the longest was break it in like you drive it. I did the whole 1/4 throttle for the first tank bullsheet. Tried to just put around on it. When I redo my new 86 r i will do the same. Besides most manuals say 20 hours and check the rings dont they? Dosent give alot of time to ride.

[Mr_RPM]

when breaking in a new cam i was told to not let it idle, but since your using your already broken in cam, i would idle and warm it up for a breif period like a minute then keep the load down and just puts around a open area and not let it get to hot. slowly maybe after 30 mins get harder on it to the point your riding it normal and agressive, after the first tank of gas change your oil.

[ilmoakw]

This guy says "run it hard!"

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Mr_RPM]

well what im seeing here is everyone says something different. so what im getting is it doesn't matter to much, its like fighting over the best way to make BBQ. im still going to do it my way and others will do it there way, either way both machines run. just make sure you change your oil shortly after because as things break in they tend to leave little metal shavings while being broken in, esp for brand new machines. change your oil after so these metal shavings arnt in there causing damage

and change/clean screens and filters for the oil

[Racerguy381]

I always ran specific break in oil in all my 2 strokes and 4 strokes. The main thing is getting the correct heat cycle process down.
1 start and run for 2 min high idle. then let it cool off so its cold to the touch.
2 start and run for 5 min high idle then let cool... I speed this up buy running a fan in front of the engine so it cools faster.
3 start and run for 10 min normal idle... let cool
4 start and run for 20 min idle and occasional light throttle... then let cool
5 start and run for 20 min ride around no more than half throttle on and off the throttle. Let the engine slow itself down no braking unless to stop. Shut off and let cool.
6 start and ride for 30min on and off the gas light loads increasing throttle through out the ride time. Once thats done shut off and let cool.
Finally once your done with all that finnish your tank of fuel then change the oil. Make sure you still use a non synthetic oil for the first few changes. The rings are technically still being seated. This has always worked for me hope this helps.

[3wheelmecca]

I would just ride lightly and vary RPM for roughly an hour to make sure. once its nice and hot, drop the oil. it will save you in the long run. also run 2 stroke like the others said throw in some ATF in the tank, your rings will apprectiate it. Its what i did on my 200E and it broke in great. I originally used this on Harleys since I rebuild and mod them for a living.

[2010iron883]

I wouldnt let it sit and idle for a long period of time , vary the speed, dont put around! ride it like your gonna ride it everyday,. Dont start ease into the moderate riding. Let the engine make compression, u know coast it some down hill in gear and just let the engine slow its self. just my 2 cents and ive done 2 harley davidsons, a 2008 R6 and a 2009 vstar and they havnt let me down. Very strong!

[dougspcs]

Direct from Honda owners manual..no colourful opinion provided.

"During the 1st few days of riding operate your new ATC200 so that the engine neither pulls labouriously nor approaches maximum RPM in any gear. Avoid full throttle operation, and select your gears to spare the engine undo stress. A careful break-in during initial operation will measurably extend the service life of the engine."


Not sure where some of these break-in instructions come from. But you know what they say about opinions....!

Just use common sense and it will be fine. It's an ATC not the space shuttle!

[RodKnockRacing]

as long as you dont go WOT first ride out banging threw every gear and getting it extremely hot you will be fine. My buddy Brapp and I just heat cycled my engine in my 200X a few times and its just fine.

[Xpress]

Direct from Honda owners manual..no colourful opinion provided.

"During the 1st few days of riding operate your new ATC200 so that the engine neither pulls labouriously nor approaches maximum RPM in any gear. Avoid full throttle operation, and select your gears to spare the engine undo stress. A careful break-in during initial operation will measurably extend the service life of the engine."


Not sure where some of these break-in instructions come from. But you know what they say about opinions....!

Just use common sense and it will be fine. It's an ATC not the space shuttle!

Agreed. The manufacturer knows best how to run in its own engine.

Basically: Be careful and gentle with it. The piston rings have to wear into the cylinder wall, and the only way they can properly do this is if you don't push your engine hard. I would guestimate that after about 5 hours of use you should be fine to progressively push it harder and harder.

Generally you will see a lot of young and cocky kids that don't have a lot of experience with engine break in procedures telling you to push it WOT right off the bat. That's fine, as long as you plan on rebuilding your topend AGAIN after some 30-40 hours of use.

[82 250r]

Many different opinions...everyone is correct to some degree...
The correct answer depends on the cylinder hone from the machine shop. Most ring manufactures have a type of hone they recommend. Always let your machinist know what you need beforehand.

In the "old days" most hones were very rough and needed a gentle breakin over time.
Currently, many hones are lighter so the rings can seat quicker. If you have a light hone and decide to breakin slow and gentle, you will glaze the cylinder and the rings will never seat.

Go ask the machine shop what they did and for their recommendation.

Marc

[4x4van]

Heat cycling is needed for "pinch-fit" engines that don't run rings (like nitro R/C engines), but no ATV manufacturer has ever recommended "heat-cycling " for their brand new ATC/ATV engines, so why would you do it to a rebuilt one? They also don't tell you to run extra oil in the fuel for break-in, do they? Running additional oil in the fuel during break in is counter-productive, since that leans out the jetting, increasing the chance of damage and even seizure. How many of you have ever "heat-cycled" a new car? Or how about adding oil to the tank of that new car?

Bottom line, start it up and ride it. Don't abuse it, but don't "baby" it either. Vary the throttle and load, and go easy on it for a tank, even two. After that, ride it normally. Again, from the MANUFACTURER'S OWN WORDS: "During the 1st few days of riding operate your new ATC200 so that the engine neither pulls labouriously nor approaches maximum RPM in any gear. Avoid full throttle operation, and select your gears to spare the engine undo stress."

[Xpress]

How many of you have ever "heat-cycled" a new car?[/B]

Well considering most new cars are ready to roll from the factory nowadays (or maybe it's just Toyota, but I know they run their engines for 24 hours straight for the run in period), probably seldom few.