//ArrowChat Code

Upcoming Events for the Next 120 Day(s)

Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: New Headlight Sockets (Focused on the White Plastic style first)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451

    New Headlight Sockets (Focused on the White Plastic style first)

    I've found a source for the white headlight sockets. Going to structure this thread just like my other thread on the neutral/reverse dash light socket thread. I also have a few sources for the 350x style headlights, the ones with the dust boots are pretty pricey though.

    I should have up to 87 covered for all Honda models with headlights. Wouldn't mind to dive into the other brands some time too. Might have to use find on page to find your machine.

    Headlight socket style:
    White plastic style - I'll add a photos later, but it's the type that the bulb goes into the socket, then the socket twist locks into the back of the headlamp.
    350x style - 3 prong socket that twist locks into the back of the head lamp, bulb base has one locator nub and is sandwitched between the socket and headlamp. This has two contacts at the bulb base for bright + dims.
    H4 - common motorcycle style headlight, there's no socket to this one, the bulb also is where the connector plugs into it. Bulb clamps into the back of the head lamp.
    Sealed beam - bulb and headlamp are all one unit, the whole thing has to be replaced when the bulb burns out.

    Parts based on part numbers. Bold = I have enough info to mod/reproduce the part.

    350x style sockets

    33130-051-690 (350x style) - in production still
    • ATC70
    • ATC70K1
    • ATC90
    • ATC90K1
    • ATC90K2
    • ATC90K3
    • 76-78 ATC90



    33130-943-003 (350x style) - 3ww Shop
    • 79-80 ATC110


    33130-HA5-003 (350x style) - 3ww Shop
    • 85-86 ATC350X


    White Plastic Style

    33130-958-013 (White plastic style)
    • 81-82 ATC110
    • 81-83 ATC185S
    • 81-83 ATC200
    • 82-83 ATC200E
    • 84 ATC200ES
    • 84-85 ATC200M


    33130-943-013 (White plastic style) - should have this on the 84 & 85 ATC125M parts machines I have
    • 83-85 ATC110
    • 84-85 ATC125M
    • 84-86 ATC200S
    • 85-86 TRX125



    Others

    33130-292-033 (odd one, not sure if this is the white plastic style? partzilla has it linked to the whole light assembly which might use a different socket type) - in production as a full assembly
    • 80 ATC185


    33130-HB6-000 (similar to white plastic style, but mounts differently) bought a cheap one to have on hand
    • 86-87 ATC125M
    • 86-88 TRX200SX


    H4 Style

    33130-950-013 (H4 style)
    • 81-82 ATC250R
    • 80 FL250 Odyssey


    33120-965-003 (H4 style)
    • 83-85 ATC200X


    33120-964-003 (H4 style)
    • 83-84 ATC250R


    33100-HA0-003 (H4 style)
    • 85-87 ATC250ES


    33120-HA2-003 (H4 style)
    • 85 ATC250SX
    • 85 ATC250R


    33120-HA2-671 (H4 style)
    • 86-87 ATC200X
    • 86 ATC250R
    • 86-87 ATC250SX



    NON-ATC Parts



    350x style sockets

    33130-HA7-751 - Lower helper lights (350x style)
    • 87-89 TRX350D



    White Plastic Style

    33130-950-003 (White plastic style I think)
    • 77-79 FL250 Odyssey


    33130-VM5-003 (white plastic style?)
    • 84 TRX200


    33130-HA8-003 (white plastic style)
    • 85-87 TRX250


    33130-HC3-000 (white plastic style)
    • 87-88 TRX125


    Others

    33250-HA7-671 - Lower helper lights (T10 rubber socket style I think)
    • 86-87 TRX350


    H4 Style

    33120-HC0-003 (H4 style)
    • 87-92 TRX250X
    • 92-2006 TRX300EX


    33120-HB9-771 (H4 style)
    88-89 TRX250R

    33120-HB9-003 (H4 style)
    • 86-87 TRX250R


    33120-HA7-670 & 33120-HA7-671 (H4 style)
    • 86-87 TRX350
    • 88-89 TRX350D


    33120-950-013 (H4 style)
    • 81-84 FL250 Odyssey
    Last edited by ps2fixer; 12-27-2018 at 03:04 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451
    I just ordered 20 qty of the white plastic style sockets from the source I found. Hopefully they are a perfect match to OEM. If anyone needs this style of socket, let me know.

    Also made and listed 79-80 atc110 headlight socket based on photos.
    Last edited by ps2fixer; 12-27-2018 at 03:28 AM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451
    Just got the sockets in. Plastic quality seems good, the metal part of the socket isn't bad, but it does have a couple unwanted features lol. The contacts just push out, no resistance at all, the holes are too big. Since it's so easy to remove them, maybe I can find where to buy the contacts to crimp them on my wiring and have a good fit. Also the wire size isn't half bad, it isn't Chinese junk wire, its not too bad Taiwan made wiring. All crimps look pretty good and insulators are 100x better than the Chinese ones. Only thing I see that's a huge no go for me is the ground wire. It's wrapped over the plastic socket and the metal socket presses against it, not soldered or rivited like OEM. About 5lbs of pull on the wire pulls it out.

    I'll have to see what I can do to fix these issues, good news is, I get to use my wiring instead of an unknown quality wire. I was hoping I could just crimp new connectors on them and have them good to go, oh well, more parts I have to extensively mod lol.

    Here's some photos as I get them. Of course my cam want's to be garbage today, need to get something better some time.

    Oh and I test fitted it on an ATC200ES headlight, and they fit well. Should be very usable once I figure out how to fix the issues. Clearly the ground wire is my #1 problem and soldering it to the metal housing shouldn't be too hard to do.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20181231_132612_747.jpg   IMG_20181231_132452_499.jpg   IMG_20181231_132518_205.jpg  

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451
    Tested out soldering the wire to the metal part of the socket, and it works out well enough. I'll probably need to epoxy or glue the plastic to the metal so it doesn't come apart on anything, nothing over kill, just something rather than nothing.

    Also... look what I found, hopefully these will work out well. Japanese made is always a nice bonus. Too bad I can't find the flat style anywhere for the ignition switches and such I work with.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Northeast
    --
    16,983
    You certainly do allot of work to get things right!! Although I have tried to be as open as possible, sales are still not that great.

    I did sell all 15 350X headlight guards that I made, and got 100% feedback, but CHRIST!! The questions people have are ludicrous!! Even with a 100% MBG...

    Even when making a new awesome product that meets or exceeds OEM, it's not always an easy sale.

    I can only speak for myself, you do an amazing job with your reproductions, it's not easy to try and make a few bucks on things you make with a passion.

    Just understand that some of us do appreciate the products you offer...
    WHO IS Q?? WWG1WGA!!


    86 ATC200X Flatrack ( I may not be fast but this is one FAST 200X!!

    86 ATC350X Motocross, 86 ATC452X Flatrack!!

    07 Weekend Warrior Toy Hauler

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    MI, USA
    --
    3,451
    Yea, I've kind of wondered why I haven't had more issues like that. I'm guessing most people don't do so well with electrical, so they just buy it lol. Mechanical parts I'm guessing people would be worried if the welds are good, the metal quality, the paint quality, etc. Like headlight guards are likely more of a fashion accessory than a functional item, even though it has the side benefit of protecting the headlight.

    I guess the other factor is, I really don't pay myself much, I price based on what I feel the market would pay, or if I needed the part, what I'd be willing to pay (I'm cheap though and shop around etc all the time).

    The way I figure it, if I can offer the part and make it avaiable, as long as I don't have a huge amount of money tied up into it, I don't really care if it sits for a year before I make a sale. I just know only stock 1 at a time. Depending what it is, I might throw a listing on 3ww shop too, so 2 stock. I have one part I have 13 of, and estimated time to sell out is 4900 days lol. Basically 1 sale per year.

    Anyway, this Taiwan wire isn't half bad, little smaller than my wire, probably around 20 gauge, maybe 22. I started poking around ideas, and a layer of heat shrink over the crimp stiffens it up in the hole pretty well. Little dab of liquid electrical tape (epoxy would be better, but it's what I have on hand), and the terminals don't just bug out when messing with the wires. The first ground spot I tried is alright, but I have a new idea for it now. Orig idea was to use the same location it goes though the plastic housing and solder it to the metal socket, new idea is to solder it on the side of the socket, and run it down the center hole. Hopefully there's enough room for the wire run, and it should be able to press all the way like they come to me.

    Also pulled my OEM socket from a 200es to compare, and it's a slightly different look, but overall functions the same. The bulb fits these sockets well too. Pretty happy with them overall after a bit of work. I'll probably be putting my own terminals in it with my wire once they come, but for short term I'll reuse their white/blue wire and test the market out on ebay. Still not sure what a fair price would be, they sell used pretty cheap. Probably try $20 to sample the market, and bump it to $25 once I "upgrade" them with all my wire and Japanese terminals. Probably still have to glue them in since the holes are so big.

    Kind of having a feeling these will be one of those items I'll sell one in a great while, but nothing special. Just like the neutral/reverse sockets (no sales from them and I have like 10 models made, oh well). There's NOS headlight sockets selling for $20 shipped.

    I'll just keep throwing parts out there, something will stick lol.

    Update:

    I think I figured out an alright process. Soldering isn't perfect, but not too bad going to such a large metal object.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_20181231_221649_043.jpg   IMG_20181231_221841_189.jpg   IMG_20181231_221612_723.jpg  
    Last edited by ps2fixer; 01-01-2019 at 12:16 AM.

//ArrowChat Integreation Code //